Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
On a positive note, adjusting my throttle cable seems to have dropped my idle considerably. Now if I could just figure out what to hard wire my Acewell to to get an RPM reading I'd know a number. Not that my trusty ear-tach isn't finely tuned machine, but the confirmation would be nice.
 

CALfeRacer

Fat man on a little bike
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Someone on here made an airbox for the DOHC that looked good and supposedly helped with the running. Can't think of his name, but I'd try searching CB750 airbox. If not, I'll find it in my bookmarks tomorrow when I'm on a computer.
 

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

CALfeRacer said:
Someone on here made an airbox for the DOHC that looked good and supposedly helped with the running. Can't think of his name, but I'd try searching CB750 airbox. If not, I'll find it in my bookmarks tomorrow when I'm on a computer.

That would be awesome! Thanks
 

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
Alright, the gauge lights up, shows the turn signal indicators and the neutral light is working. The headlight works but the high beam isn't wired but I have some solid advice on how to get it sorted out.
HOWEVER - I can't for the life of me find what wire to hard-wire yellow tach wire to.
 

CALfeRacer

Fat man on a little bike
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60747.0
There you go. I forgot that he did a GSXR carb swap, but the same principles should still apply.
 

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
CALfeRacer said:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=60747.0
There you go. I forgot that he did a GSXR carb swap, but the same principles should still apply.

Awesome! Thanks for following through with the link.

I don't have the ability to weld aluminum at the moment but I can fab out of other material.

Once I get the wiring bugs all figured out this will be a nice side project.
 

DohcBikes

Fuck You.
Great little thread on that airbox. They can be made smaller. I would like to see how his second attempt came out. After reading about a thousand pods vs. stock airbox threads on this site, I'm very surprised that more people don't mention or think of a custom plenum. Experience pays sometimes, so I've heard.
 

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
With the electric 95% complete I decided to get started on my seat since it's the last major thing I need to do before the bike can hit the road.

Let me preface this by saying my sewing experience is very limited and consists of making a few ghillie suits and modifying my gear and uniforms while I was in the Army. Looks mattered far less than durability.

So, here's the steps I took to make my seat.

Here's my template traced out and my seat material face down with the batting glued on and drying. I used 3M 77 spray adhesive for this.



Setting marks where my stitch lines will be (first and last line get an extra 1/2" according to the guide I followed for "seam allowance").



You can see here I started sewing the lines but the feed pawls on the machine kept getting snagged on the batting so I layed strips of masking tape for the foot to travel over.



A few lines sewn with the tape



Top piece sewn



Cut to fit the template



Boxing cut



Boxing sewn on





"crown" piece cut and sewn on



Cover sewn



Close up



Started cutting the seat pan. Used ABS plastic



Rough shape



Foam attached to the seat pan. I used DAP contact cement



I forgot to take pictures but I welded a steel bar to two bolts so the bolts wouldn't spin while tightening them. 4 bolts will hold the seat down.



Cover being attached. I used contact cement and also used staples at the corners



Seat/tank merger



Complete and mounted

 

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Loctite77 said:
You probably should find somewhere better to mount that battery
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I use that same vintage glass fuel filter and it's fine running "upward" your fuel supply is always higher than the carbs.
302c238504f0f053334d5053786d7f47.jpg

I would just extend the line to filter, have it below float bowls and have a nice long loop back up to fuel intake on carb body
 

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
Thanks for the compliments gents! After a ride, I have a few things to adjust and install.

I forgot to put the breather filter back on the crank case - I'm sure there's some good DIY's on the internet for getting oil out of jeans...

Bar position is getting tucked back just a bit and I plan to slide the bars inward about 1/2".

brakes and suspension felt great.

Lastly, the carb rebuild kit I bought came with adjustable needles (unlike what was in there previously), I'm going to lower the clip one position and see how that effects a flat spot I have in the upper range. Likely due to the filters but if this is the first adjustment I have to make and the bike runs like it does, I'm not too disappointed with these filters.
 

Loctite77

Yeah Son!
Re: Another crack at making a DOHC "cool"

Dude! I am really impressed with your seamstress abilities. That seat looks great. I was going to try to sew my own leather but didn't think it would turn out. I'm motivated to try to do my own next time.


Yeah Son!
 

ArBrnSnpr

Been Around the Block
xb33bsa said:
i cant recomend thos pos glass filters ,besides vibrating lose, glass breaks fires start


Thanks for the heads up. I just tried to rotate the filter lose while mounted - wasn't possible while the ends are clamped to the fuel line.

If something was to break the glass it would have to either:

A. Make its way between my tank and frame rails (where I mounted my filter). Whatever John F Kennedy style magic bullet it was that made its way in there, say road debris flying at the right speed and hitting just the right angle would 99% likely also rupture or puncture a fuel line or whatever type of plastic filter that was being used in place of the glass one.

OR

B. The bike gets laid down and in order for the filter to make contact with something (crushed metal, pavement, etc...) the tank would have to be crushed to the point it would be as likely, if not more likely to leak fuel than the glass filter.

All that said - I'll keep an eye on it.
 

iatethepeach

Coast to Coast
I wouldn't worry about A and B too much, either, but plastic filters are lighter, cheaper, and more durable. Lighter means less tugging on the lines while vibrating, so less likely to loosen over time. More durable is safer mostly when you're wrenching (but hey, this is America, so stray bullets happen).
 

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