Get rid of charging system on cb360

\Nnothing wrong with trying as long as you have someone with a van or trailer and have some nice country roads to ride on. Go for it. I'd be interested to know how far it might run under ideal conditions ie no traffic to worry about and preferably few stop signs or traffic lights.

Sonrier was developing an upgraded stator.
 
I'll be equipped with energy meter to monitor the energy spent, do that I know when to turn back.

I'll go for a 40 miles loop, so that if I ask anyone to get my van to pick me up, help us there within b 30 mins.


My biggest pain now is to get the bike running
 
I'll be equipped with energy meter to monitor the energy spent, do that I know when to turn back.

This is way easier said than done, without installing a shunt and a true battery monitor system there's no way of knowing how much power you're using. Also honda twins are real finnicky about voltage, as soon as it gets a bit low you'll start running wonky.
 
Our longtime member @crazypj may be the most knowledgeable small Honda expert anywhere and I'd trust, over and over, anything he has to say about them. A while back he was messing w/ a project to use the existing charging system but replace the battery w/ a bank of capacitors. I haven't seen anything about it for some time so I suspect it wasn't something that was panning out as well as he had hoped. Also a long time ago somebody on here, maybe @Sonreir (?), was messing w/ doubling up the charging components on a 350 or 360 to try and up the output and I don't remember anything coming from that either but it did look interesting.

As others have noted above, the smaller Hondas have been notoriously finicky about how much voltage is available to them and I've given lots of consideration to this over the (long) time I've been building my 360/378. I've read, asked questions, and read some more (and still don't know nearly enough) and decided to go the route of using a modern Rec/Reg, more efficient wiring, and all LED lighting. I figure that applying as much modern tech as I can to the '70s tech that I'm stuck with should give me about the best I can get out of the whole mess. We'll see, I guess. Good luck to ya!
 
I was looking at doubling up, but I decided to go with a three phase conversion, instead.

I've still got a few left if anyone is interested in helping put some miles on them.
 

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This is way easier said than done, without installing a shunt and a true battery monitor system there's no way of knowing how much power you're using. Also honda twins are real finnicky about voltage, as soon as it gets a bit low you'll start running wonky.
Yes of course, to calculate energy, I need power, which is Vols x Amps. Simple voltmeter reads voltage. I would use a DC power meter.

Question about the low voltage - how low can the H twins go down to and still perform ok? Is 11v too low?
 
11V is probably the very lower limit. Anything under 12V and it starts getting a bit suspect. In theory, 10V should be fine, but the twins have always been finicky about voltage.
 
I was looking at doubling up, but I decided to go with a three phase conversion, instead.

I've still got a few left if anyone is interested in helping put some miles on them.
This is my final solution. What I'm experimenting now is just that. This will be a nice learning for me and hopefully for many here in DTT..
 
11V is probably the very lower limit. Anything under 12V and it starts getting a bit suspect. In theory, 10V should be fine, but the twins have always been finicky about voltage.
The pack I'm planning to use has a nominal voltage of 11v. Let's see how it goes.
 
Actually I should be able to plug my stator back and head back.

Possible, but I wouldn't count on it. You usually can't start a Honda twin if the battery is dead (even using the kicker). You need an initial charge to get things running.
 
Possible, but I wouldn't count on it. You usually can't start a Honda twin if the battery is dead (even using the kicker). You need an initial charge to get things running.
I wouldn't go below 11v and end up in a dead battery. I'll have enough juice {at least 75whr @11v) when I decide to switch to the stator.
 
There is some good info and some videos from Hugh's Handbuilt on starting XS650's with no battery and a capacitor. He has a vid where he starts and idles one with a headlamp on. He does some neat work rephasing Yamaha twins and making upgrades to all aspects of XS650's. I am sure he did a ton of experimenting to see what worked for him.
 
Sonreir, your 3 phase stator is a PM brushless, which is more powerful than the stock cb360 stator, correct? If I used your stator and a capacitor, do you think it would work without a battery?
 
I still don't understand the reason for this exercise. To see if you can do it? Fine, but why? The engine still needs the rotor for flywheel. Battery eliminator I can understand, but not charging system eliminator. I once had a blown fuse in the charging for my RD250. Barely made it the three miles home. Had to nurse the engine at low RPM to keep it running.
 
I wouldn't go below 11v and end up in a dead battery. I'll have enough juice {at least 75whr @11v) when I decide to switch to the stator.

I don't know if you're planning on using a lithium battery but I suspect you are? Keep in mind they don't follow the same rules as lead acid batteries. The EarthX over-discharge protection kicks in (internally disconnects the battery from the circuit) at somewhere around/above 11.5 volts.
 
Yes DD, lithium batteries. Yes, I'm aware of the over charge and discharge cutoff voltages. Thanks for the reminder.
 
I still don't understand the reason for this exercise. To see if you can do it? Fine, but why? The engine still needs the rotor for flywheel. Battery eliminator I can understand, but not charging system eliminator.

Wondering the same thing myself. I can't believe there's any potential for more than a negligible HP increase nor would the resultant weight loss gain much performance.
 
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