Lowering Fork in 1992 CB750 Nighthawk

[peez]

First post here, Just got my first bike and after some youtubing, I thought this was going to be an easy job. Then I see this breakdown that already shows a spacer...

Stole this image from here: http://nighthawk-750.blogspot.com/2011/04/replacing-fork-oil-seals-part-2.html

Can I still add the same 2" spacer I cut the 2" section of the spring, even with this large spacer already in the fork?

 

[Hurco550]

edited below

(paging tim, not to thread jack, but how do you delete posts?)

 

[Hurco550]

if i were you, i would cut 2" off of the spacer instead of the spring, unless you are after a stiffer spring rate anyways, in which case you would cut the spring

 

[peez]

Thanks! I'm looking for a stiffer/shorter fork, everything I've read points me to cut the spring X inches and add an X inch spacer, right?

 

[pidjones]

Have you calculated what this will do to cornering clearance and rake/trail?

 

[Maritime]

I said this in your other post but I would slide the forks up in the trees the amount you want to lower them and ride it like that before you do anything internal you can't reverse. Check clearances etc. you may find the bike un-ridable, if you just slide the forks you can easily adjust back.

 

[Alan F.]

You can also cut incrementally shorter lengths of PVC pipe to replace that spacer for test rides, no need to hack up a stock part.

 

[teazer]

Stop.

Cutting the spring and making a longer spacer gives the same length of forks but slightly stiffer.

Sliding through the triples to get an idea of whether that works is a great idea.

The usual way to shorten conventional forks is to cut a length off the springs (6) and add the short piece to the anti-top out spring (13) on the damper rod to restrict movement.

Changing the preload spacer length just changes pre-load which changes sag and that may not be what you want to do.

A bigger question is WHY?