???
Gents,
I was alerted that the "pinking" I was experiencing could be due to timing that was overadvanced. I have attempted to time the bike with a test lamp, etc. I did not find my manual all that helpful, so I am slightly at a loss. The bike was running so-so before I did this. The only problems were the "pinking" and one cylinder did not want to fire at idle so I had to keep some revs on at stop lights, etc. After I "messed with" the timing the other day, the bike did not seem to have the power it did before, and died on me twice. Upon both stalls, the right side fuel filter was dry when it usually has a little fuel in it. I had to fiddle with the hose to suck some fuel in and it started up again. But like I said, none of this happened before I "set" the timing. Could the two be related? Additionally, I know that the bike has definitely been running rich by the look of the plugs. Here's the timing "procedure" and other info.
Bike: 72 CB350 K4
1. Grounded test lamp to negative ground of battery and the other clip to the left point to begin.
2. Removed left plug and covered the plug hole with finger.
3. turned engine over until i felt upward compression on my finger
4. turned to the "LF" mark and held it. adjusted the entire point plate so that the lamp would light just at that mark
5. Hooked alligator clip to right point and moved the engine to hit the "F" mark
6. Adjusted gap on left point until it would light just at the "F'" mark.
7. Sealed everything back up.
Concerns....Because I'm still getting into this, I don't have a great grasp on this timing concept yet. I know it takes a few tries. Here are some of my concerns, simple though they may be.
1. after setting the left point at the LF mark, do i have to repeat the finger in the hole test on the other cylinder to feel compression or do i just turn the wheel to the F mark. Essentially, does the engine need a whole nother rotation before setting the F mark.
2. The test light would stay on for a bit after passing the LF mark before it would shut off. Is that normal?
3. Should one point be completely closed when the other is completely open?
4. How are the fuel and power issues I experienced after doing this related to the timing adjustment.
Like I said guys, I appreciate the understanding. I'm no pro. I definitely respect and appreciate any input you may have. I'm sure my symptoms mean more to someone on here than they do to me. If anyone can post a link to an online guide that would be helpful too. Does it look like i need new points/condensor or coils? I can't really afford to go with the electric ignition right now, unfortunately. I'd like to get the timing down so I can get the Carbs synced up. If you need other info, just give me a yell. Thanks all.
Gents,
I was alerted that the "pinking" I was experiencing could be due to timing that was overadvanced. I have attempted to time the bike with a test lamp, etc. I did not find my manual all that helpful, so I am slightly at a loss. The bike was running so-so before I did this. The only problems were the "pinking" and one cylinder did not want to fire at idle so I had to keep some revs on at stop lights, etc. After I "messed with" the timing the other day, the bike did not seem to have the power it did before, and died on me twice. Upon both stalls, the right side fuel filter was dry when it usually has a little fuel in it. I had to fiddle with the hose to suck some fuel in and it started up again. But like I said, none of this happened before I "set" the timing. Could the two be related? Additionally, I know that the bike has definitely been running rich by the look of the plugs. Here's the timing "procedure" and other info.
Bike: 72 CB350 K4
1. Grounded test lamp to negative ground of battery and the other clip to the left point to begin.
2. Removed left plug and covered the plug hole with finger.
3. turned engine over until i felt upward compression on my finger
4. turned to the "LF" mark and held it. adjusted the entire point plate so that the lamp would light just at that mark
5. Hooked alligator clip to right point and moved the engine to hit the "F" mark
6. Adjusted gap on left point until it would light just at the "F'" mark.
7. Sealed everything back up.
Concerns....Because I'm still getting into this, I don't have a great grasp on this timing concept yet. I know it takes a few tries. Here are some of my concerns, simple though they may be.
1. after setting the left point at the LF mark, do i have to repeat the finger in the hole test on the other cylinder to feel compression or do i just turn the wheel to the F mark. Essentially, does the engine need a whole nother rotation before setting the F mark.
2. The test light would stay on for a bit after passing the LF mark before it would shut off. Is that normal?
3. Should one point be completely closed when the other is completely open?
4. How are the fuel and power issues I experienced after doing this related to the timing adjustment.
Like I said guys, I appreciate the understanding. I'm no pro. I definitely respect and appreciate any input you may have. I'm sure my symptoms mean more to someone on here than they do to me. If anyone can post a link to an online guide that would be helpful too. Does it look like i need new points/condensor or coils? I can't really afford to go with the electric ignition right now, unfortunately. I'd like to get the timing down so I can get the Carbs synced up. If you need other info, just give me a yell. Thanks all.