Nothing specific comes to mind as peculiar with these, so here are some generalizations.
1) "rebuilding" carbs is not so much a rebuild as it is a cleaning. Very often no parts need to be replaced except for gaskets. Not many parts go bad or wear appreciably except for floats, needles on gazillion mile or crazy vibration bikes, and diaphrams on CV carbs.
2) You will need to take your carbs 100% apart. In my experience, 1 in 100 people (I am too generous I know) actually understand what 100% means.
3) For the most part, aftermarket "rebuild kits" are an absolute waste of money, and the source of uncountable hours of frustration and confusion, not to mention money to pay someone to figure out how to get all the OEM parts back in. I had a bike in my shop a maybe a month ago - 1971 vintage - incredible museum piece. Very savvy owner could not get it to run properly. Carbs were IMACULATE! All I did was replace all the jets, needles, emulsion tubes, etc with oem parts - threw out all the "new" rebuild kit parts. Pretty easy - bike was stock down to the paper air filter so it was fairly easy to determine all the correct parts. Ran perfectly afterward. Took me longer to research and round up the parts than do the work.
4) You can soak your carbs - even completely stripped - in lemon juice, simple green, pinesol or whatever miracle juice you like, intern them in an ultra sonic cleaner for days or send them to NASA and it won't be enough by itself. I am not condemning any of these choices, simply stating that a) very likely it is not required, and b)it will not save you from meticulously inspecting and cleaning each and every tiny passageway one by one. If you are not up to doing this you are comprehensively wasting your time.
5) Most carbs are not all that complex, but a rack of 4 has quite a few parts. For the most part, there are only 1/4 as many parts as the four carbs are the same - mostly. Most sets have some peculiarities between them. Most of the differences revolve around the choke (or enrichers), fuel supply or mechanical assembly of the set and throttle actuation mechanism, so pay carefull attention to these areas BEFORE you take them apart. Occasionally they can be hard to figure out going back together even for someone very experienced. Good time to take some photos. One tactic is to divide the job into sections. Get the individual carbs separated and put all the loose bits in zip-locks. Then do each carb one at a time and keep all the parts for that carb in it's own baggy.
6) Many parts are brass. VERY SOFT, and VERY WEAK. The absolutely perfect and correct tool is essential. Get real comfortable with the notion of grinding flat blade screwdrivers for an absolutely flawless fit. Blades should fit with absolutely zero slop. You only have your first try removing jets to be successful. Damage the head of the jet and you sometimes have to be very clever indeed to not end up throwing out the whole carb body. If anything does not unscrew fairly easily, STOP! Heat the body up with a heat gun and try again.
7) Spray aerosol carb cleaner through all passageways. THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE! Pay attention to the stream where it exits. Most of the time it exits in several places. You should always get a nice clean jet. Compare the exit jet to the other carbs. If one looks different figure out why. Avoid poking anything into any hole in any part. Only rarely is this actually necessary. If you think it is, soak the component in liquid carb cleaner (or miracle goo of your choice) overnight and try again. I think it is invaluable to learn how all the passageways of your carbs work. This will hugely improve your ability to clean them because you understand what need to happen when clean. It is much easier than it sounds - lots of stuff on the interweb. The most important thing to understand is that all the systems inside your carbs do something many people do not realize: They do not spit fuel into the main bore of your carb. They spit a mixture of fuel AND air into the main bore of your carb. As a rule, all the systems mix fuel with air within all those mysterious passageways BEFORE it emerges into the main bore where that mixture is mixed with a lot more air. Understanding where both the fuel and air have to go to accomplish this makes it a lot easier to KNOW you have actually cleaned everything.
8 ) Reassembly is usually pretty easy. Most needle and seat assemblies have needles with a spring loaded pin. This is a mechanical element that does not in any way interact with the fuel supply. Set the float height with the spring UN-compressed but the conical needle fully seated. Many carbs can not be held upside down to set the float height as the weight of the floats compresses the spring giving an incorrect height. Angle the carb so the seat is fully closed but the spring loaded pin is not compressed. In the main the float height is not crazy critical so don't agonize over the trickiness of making the measurement. Just get the spec and set the floats. 99% of carbs will have the operating arm horizontal, or parallel with the bowl gasket surface but there are exceptions. Be careful not to over tighten anything! The soft brass should go without saying, but I see a lot of distorted fuel bowls from over tightening screws. They will never seal if they get bent!
be patient, take lots of pics, and good luck!