Recent content by midnightrider

Like m in sc said, I'm thinking that your problem may be electrical as well....which is outside of my troubleshooting experience... Do the fuel filter to at least rule that out. $1.00 at the auto parts store.

Easy way to test fuel delivery to the carbs: Put a transparent fuel filter on the fuel line just outside of the petcock connection, with this you can easily look down and see if there is gas in it at any time. If there's gas in it then there is fuel "head" on the carbs. You don't need a filter...

I had my engine out when I removed the forks, so it was a light and easy to handle... Make sure you strap the bike down to whatever you use to support it... It's gonna be tough with the wheel on because the forks are going to have to drop about a foot from the triple tree.

Yep. Get a good impact driver. This is one of the tools you don't want to get from harbor freight too. Might also want to look into changing out bolts. Honda still has most of them cheap and you can get replacements for most at a good fastener shop. I got an allen-head bolt kit for my...

I'm sure you figured this out by now...but anyway - http://www.caferacertv.com/builders/greg-hagerman/

My bike is still in pieces from a rebuild. I'm just looking ahead. I used a friend's Morgan Carbtune last time and it was easy. I think I might try this. Thanks for the advice!

Thank you. I don't see how that one could be used on a 4 though...without the process taking all day because of the need to constantly disconnect and reconnect the vacuum hoses. Any thoughts?

I'm trying to determine whether to get a Morgan Carbtune or an Emgo Carb Synchronizer.... They are both just under $100 in most places. Any thoughts? Any reviews of either one? http://www.carbtune.com/...

you can get it for cheap from the dealer or service honda. I'd jb weld a tab on the back to keep it in there if it's still intact enough to not be seen from the outside...

Right on! Good work, brother; that tail light is kickass!

It looks to me like you have all of the gaskets you need if you want to hone and re-ring, but if compression is good then you really don't need to.

that's right. 160Ax17W is stamped on the rim. I think I'll stick with the recommendation and go with the 3.00 x 17. Thanks!

I'm looking for a new rear tire for my 1975 CB125s. It's currently running a 3.00 x 17 that's older than your grandma. So I know I can run this one: http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/tpl/tire/product.jsp?skuId=54369&store=Main&catId=&productId=p54369&leafCatId=&mmyId= But the question is -...