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It sounds like it wants to start, but just doesn't have enough power to get going. After several attempts to start, the fuse will blow. I cleaned the fuse holders since they were pretty gunky, but still no cigar. I rewired everything just as it was when it was running before, and it ran a couple...

It turned on after messing with the fuses a little bit and started up for a while last night, but when I tried to crank it over tonight, the fuse blew. Now I have to order more main fuses. I wired everything up just as it was before, now this fuse blowing issue is popping up. What could be...

So neither of those wires should be hooked to the start button? I'm assuming at least the red should since I was able to start it up and ride for a couple months, so I'll snip the blue and see if that works. Just don't know what to do with that blue wire...

The first photo shows the red and blue wires that appeared to be hooked up to the start button. The second photo shows the black and black/white wires attached to the kill switch. When I got the bike, the headlight was not working, and the owner said he couldn't figure out how to get it to turn...

This is basically what I got: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496&locale=en_US There are two prongs which I soldered the red (starter) and blue (light) wires to. The only conclusion I can come to is that I connected the wires to the wrong terminals, thus cutting all...

I checked the battery's health at Cycle Gear and it looks like the battery isn't the problem. I may have wired the push start switch wrong causing the power to ground out somewhere. I wired the red and blue wires to each post on the starter switch assuming both posts were both positive...

Pretty sure the battery's shot. It's a Duraboost from Cycle Gear which was installed in July. I let it sit out in 40 degree temps at night for about 2 weeks without charging while wired in. Immediately after charging, the neutral light will stay on for about a minute, and once I try to start it...

I switched out the battery with a new one, but the new one's been sitting as well. I also found that the main fuse was blown, so I replaced that. Still no power. I checked the voltages of both the batteries with the multimeter, and it's reading 12v, so I'm assuming their charge is fine. Maybe...

So I installed a new Radio Shack open momentary switch, and after I assembled everything and tried to start her up, the neutral light slowly faded away. No power. The bike's been sitting about 2 weeks. Could the battery have drained during this time? I have a spare that I'll wire in tonight.

Thanks! I'll pick one of those up from Radio Shack tomorrow and see what happens.

There is no on-off switch on the right pod, just the start button and off-run-off switch. The left pod controls the headlight lo-hi beam. I'm assuming my bike is a late 75. Would the replacement switch in my last post drop into my wiring successfully? I'm guessing I'll have to solder the wires in.

It's a 1975, not sure if early or late. The two wires that got yanked out of the starter switch were red and blue; I believe the red is the starter and the blue is the headlight. I may just try soldering them back onto the switch, but the angle at which I would have to solder them would be a bit...

So in an attempt to switch out my stock bars for clubmans, I ruined a perfectly working bike. When removing the stock starter switch/throttle assembly, the red and blue wires were ripped from the switch. Then the throttle assembly snapped. I'm planning on getting these to replace my stock...

Thanks for the response Bozz, any little bit helps. The seller said it was up and running 4 months ago, but something is "shorting out." He said it may need to be jumped, so I'm assuming it's a dead battery, or something as simple as a loose wire. It's pretty much a gamble at this point, but...

I have the opportunity to grab a Kawasaki KZ305 for $370- the only issues are electrical problems that are preventing it from starting, fuel hoses need to be replaced, and carb needs tuning. Anyone got a ballpark estimate on how much a shop would charge to fix the electrical issue?

$1000 flat. According to the owner: "1978 Suzuki GS550 4-cylinder, 6-speed, kick- and electric-starting, side and center stand, all original, 22K miles. Just had major tune-up: Valves, carbs synched, new plugs, new battery Amsoil MC Oil and filter, this is a great starter bike, does everything...

Decided to let the seller know that I'm going to pass on the CB200...Just going to keep saving up for a bike worth buying and keeping my eyes peeled on Craigslist. Thanks for the advice guys.

It starts by kickstart, according to him.

He's only got the bill of sale...Is getting a replacement title as much of a hassle as everyone makes it out to be?

I came across a running '72 CB200 that I can probably get for $3-400. However, there's a couple issues the guy told me about: Front wheel's locked up. Key's missing. Carb's leaking. Apparently only one of the cylinders are firing since "only one of the exhaust pipes gets hot." I'm guessing these...