1974 CB360 build... just getting started!

So quick update before I get some cleaning done in the garage:

Bought Aircraft Stripper for cleaning... should be getting started soon...

Got rear tire off rim, decided rims look like crap (nicks scores and all that from myself and PO putting on/removing that 120/90/18 that was on there). Any suggestions?

Got a Civil Defense helmet on the way for the rear cowl. Gonna make it out of sheetmetal with a gelpad cushion.

Got a 1982 GS850 head with rings, pistons, and wrist pins for $85 shipped to me; also talked machinist at work into doing my engine metal work. (I don't think he's ever bored a cylinder before, but has a complete industrial machine shop; is it as simple as boring it out close to the piston size then honing it, or should I take it to an engine shop that does it often and just pay the $80 to have it done?)

Ordered a Quart of Por15 Chevy Orange engine enamel, and Pint of white. Seeing as a pint usually does a whole big block engine, a quart should do my frame and wheels nicely.

Buddy of mine offered me a giant 20'x10'x8' tent to use as a makeshift paint booth. I'm gonna have to rig up some ventilation using a box fan and some cardboard boxes, but it should work just fine since por15 is brushed on and the only spraying will be with rattle can clear coat.

New post and pictures when I'm done tonight.
 
Started stripping......... Parts that is ;)
Taking a ton of parts and 50lbs of sand to work tonight for the media blaster.

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Anyone know what this is? Found it in the vicinity of my disassembled hubs... Don't remember removing it...

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trey33088 said:
Anyone know what this is? Found it in the vicinity of my disassembled hubs... Don't remember removing it...

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Those are stitches and that is the little barrel thing that the rear brake rod goes through that sits in the brake arm on the hub.
 
Ok so I got a little bit of work done, but I have sone questions:
1. Is the groove in the race that holds the can supposed to be there? Top picture came off the engine, bottom is an extra head I got with the bike.
Groove:
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Scored race on spare head:
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2. Anyone have a cam chain slipper? The top hook of mine is MIA. I'm betting it's somewhere inside the engine case.
Broken slipper:
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3. How would you guys clean up steel rims? I'm thinking either bondo or metal filler and lots of sanding. Then coat with either POR15 enamel or chevy orange engine enamel from a rattlecan.
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4. How do you manage to get wheels bearings and swingarm bushings out? I can barely get a punch on them to knock them out....

So that's enough questions for the day, now on to the good stuff.

Taught the wife to sandblast late Friday night:
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$10 Craigslist vice after blasting
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Helmet getting smoothed out and cut in half for my seat cowl:
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CB175 tank with a new cap getting reblasted and smoothed out:
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All the goodies so far:
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Paint and gs850 head with pistons rings and pins should be in tomorrow, white fork gaiters and danmoto rearsets next week, and maybe some 33mm Chinese clipons. They seem cheap, but I like how they look and if they suck I'll just make them better and lockwire the hardware.

Frame is about 30% stripped, still needs a lot more aircraft remover and steel brush scrubbing. Once it's clean I'll start cleaning welds and replacing that damaged crossmember. It probably going to get painted last with the engine.

Carbs are cleaned up a bit and taken apart and bagged up for shipping next week to PJ for mods.

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That's about it for now. This week I'm hoping to get the wheels and forks finished.

Later guys
 
1.) Yes. That's fine.
2.) Rocker arms and those journals are not looking good. If you can get replacements, do it.
3.) Hard part to come by. Keep an eye on eBay.
4.) Any of the things you mentioned should be OK.
5.) For the wheel bearings, you will probably need a press. For the swingarm bushings, you can use a hacksaw blade to cut out a slot a few mm wide and the bushing will just pull out after that.
 
Use a bar about 10mm/3/8" dia to remove wheel bearings, just make sure you work all the way around them so they don't 'cock' in the bore.
The inner spacer can be displaced sideways a few mm so you can get bar on edge of bearing (from inside hub)
Tensioner's are around $60.00 for NOS on eBay, if you see one, just get it.
Grove in cam cover is the oil feed for center bearing, it doesn't work too well, as evidenced by the head
Rockers should have a radius on them, if they have flats or are concave they are scrap (although you can get them hard welded and reshaped better than new)
 
Cam looks like it might need a regrind... Looks a little worn. Pics tonight.

Rocker arm regrinds are 3.50 each 7.50 if they have to be rehardened @ Delta Camshaft of Tacoma. Definitely worth $30.

My at work machinist is a bit swamped at the moment, so having my journals cleaned up and replaced with bearings or bronze bushings will have to wait a few weeks.

Hagons came in. Love the looks of them, but the black powdercoat might get repainted white and/or orange with everything else.

Bought some alcohol, phosphoric etch, and a can of POR15 rust preventative. It's the actual base coat for my enamel. Decided to be safe and do it all right the first time.

Also bought a blind hole bearing puller. After an hour hammering at the rear wheel bearing with little movement, I sucked it up and spent the 50 bucks. Now I just need to make a bearing retainer removal tool for the other side.
 
So since I'm pulling a 24 hour shift of guard duty at work, I figured I'd use the free time when everyone's at home and I'm still here to let my guard duty sergeant, high speed nco that he is, man the phones while i got some bike work in... Just kiddin. He hooked me up and didn't mind doing desk work while I used the blast cabinet down the hall. Anyway, the fruits of tonights labor:

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Frame, reblasted helmet, 2 triple trees, stock rider and passenger pegs, rear drums, engine mounts, exhaust pieces, cheap controls and clubmans, and tons of other random stuff. Whatever i could grab without dismantling in the garage on my way back to work. After home and some sleep comes a lot of primer for some stuff, por15 for others.

Oh, and I discovered while hauling it all to work an entire bike will EASILY fit into the back seat and trunk of a Subaru Impreza sedan if dismantled. I'm quote surprised at how well it fits....
 
;D
You can get an XS650 in the back of a Camry, if you remove back seat.
You have to remove wheels and forks from bike ;)
 
Finish all the sandblasting on the frame, but before I can paint it I wanted the metal work taken care of. Dropped it off with Israel Marquez at Oly Iron in Olympia. Getting the backbone seams of the bike tig welded, the previous owners bracing cut out and new braces welded in made out of the same size frame tubing for a clean, hopefully factory look; new hoop made; and having the original funky looking seat mount cut out and replaced with a piece of flat stock. Should look mighty purdy when done.


Found an engine shop down the road from the house; they quoted $75 cylinder for a 2mm overbore. Sound normal or too much? Altogether for 2mm overbore, head decking, and light port and polish job I'm looking $400-500. Thats before cam journal machining ($100?), Rocker arm regrind ($30), cam gear slotting ($10), carb and cam mods and regrind ($100-200), plus a misc ($200) for whatever might come up with oil passage mods. Thats easily a grand in just my motor... dunno if I'm ready to commit to it all the way yet. Looks like I might be begging and pleading with my machinist to stay late instead of paying a shop for it all. Oh well... little at a time...


Engine is going to be on hold until I have a roller... at least thats my plan...
 
So stuff done over the past few days:


Pulled swingarm bushings out. Are they normally plastic? I used the bearing puller I bought for the wheel bearings, and I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have tightened it down so much because I broke one pulling it out.
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Also got some cheap rearsets from Danmoto on Ebay. Functional, but definitely get your moneys worth. The CNC finish isn't great (looks like it was milled by 12 year old), and they were put in a thin box with no padding. By the time they got stateside, a shifter peg had ripped through the box and they'd clanged against each other nicking them up pretty bad. However, I can clean them up with some JB weld or something, and when they're painted they should come out pretty bad ass.


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I'm going to mount them without the brackets though:
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I'm going to cut the original passenger tabs off and make a plate to mount them.


At the moment I'm painting some parts with por15, but after trying it, I'm not sure if I really want to use it as extensively as I planned.... It's "self leveling" but still seems to have brush strokes in it. Curious to see it painted. I'll finish these parts then make the decision of whether or not I'll switch to painting everything with a spray gun.
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I'll have a few more pics after I get done painting tonight.
 
So Por15 is great, really does smooth out. Engine enamel, different story. My swingarm, upper triple tree, and rear rotor look like crap lol... Really heavy on the brush strokes. Mostly due to my horrible paint skills and laying it on too thick with a stiff brush. I'm gonna attempt to sand it all down then just rattle can it all... Any tips? Anyone ever use por15 engine enamel?
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