1974 CB750k - Engine "rebuild" - first timer over here

You'll probably have to drill it out in stages...when you can just begin to see the threads use a tap to take out the rest. Do not even think of using an easy out to try to remove it, the easy out will break off and then you will have to resort to finding a machine shop with a metal disintegrator.
 
You can try to use a left-hand drill bit, I've heard of some success (yes they exist). Not sure how effective it will be on a stuck head stud though
 
22ftlbs on the APE studs. 17 is stock studs....8 is for the smaller bolts that just hold the middle by the exhaust and the camchain tensioner.
 
just take it to a machine shop and have them do it in the milling machine.that was really stupid changing out perfectly good parts.for parts that do nothing to improve a stock motor...hopefully you learned a lesson
 
Seems a lot of the horror stories probably could be solved by checking the deck... if you have shit on the flight deck or a warped cylinder... ground the bird till its flat again and buy a decent gasket... then release the steam! I have little "tolerance" for gappage lol :o

The torque spec on these head bolts is really not stressing them out at all, the damn things are rubber and stretch to an extent so if they are not rusty or damaged by inspection or heat then WTF replace them? Some say "well I auda tork em extra to make up the slak" NO if by any sense of the imagine they did pull up during the initial go what makes anyone thing adding seat pressure will do shit? and ya'll go on and pull the motor and RE torque those puppies too... Me I will go with Mr. Honda's plan ad say fuck it! goodnuff.
 
Appreciate all the replies! I now have learned the lesson of messing with something when its not broken. I have had some influence by other people and their ideas as well as reading tons of forums. I took it all to work today and drilled it out in stages. I tried many extracting techniques but eventually just rethreaded and installed the stud. It is not EXACTLY perfect, but it will do the trick. Just pissed that it happened.

Should I replace the cam chain tensioner? It is 30+ year old plastic and pretty rough looking. Also, while replacing all the gaskets....which ones are important to used hondabond? Appreciate everyones comments! I am trying hard here. Just quite new at this.
 
Ahhh well, life is all about learning, there is a lot of good advice out there on the 'net', but a lot of bullshit too..."internet improvements" are not always improvements. Glad you got it sorted out.

If the tensioner looks shagged, then you might as well replace it while you have the engine apart. The mating surfaces are quite true on these engines so you don't really need to use anything in terms of sealant except on joints where there are no gaskets. If you do decide to use it, apply it very sparingly...if you can't see through it, you have used too much.
 
Hondabond is meant for sealing the cases together, the rest of the gaskets you need come in a gasket kit. I like to use copper spray on the base gasket and head gasket for extra measure. don't forget to replace the o-rings that go around the bottom of the sleeves against the jugs.
 
You guys rock! Put the pistons back in today and they look very shiny and glorious! Going to order a tensioner and hopefully get it all together soon.

Working on getting it all cleaned up and grease free. The previous owner spray painted it black and its all flaking off.

Any tips or tricks on upgrading the point system? Brands or websites that are a good source? Appreciate it as always!
 
if you plan to keep using points, I recommend the "HondaMan ignition"

if not, the Dyna S is very nice upgrade to electric ignition
 
X2 on the Dyna S for simplicity reasons... Points when dialed in are damn fine and if it were a stock resto you would keep em, but the e ignition is simple and if installed correctly will be no touch for a good long time. Sonreir (spark Moto) is building a module of sorts to make the DS work better with digital tachometers also so you might file that somewhere.

If for some reason you do run points, buy a good set... Honda Man, or NOS even if you can source em and if you need a plate ask around... bound to be 5 or 50 laying around here.
 
I like ignition points, they really don't take much in the way of maintenance...but I must admit that there are times when I have been persuaded to go electronic. I'm a bloody caveman...I like stuff I can fix when it is broken, rather than replacing little 'black mystery boxes' when the sparks don't happen.
Keep in mind that electronic ignition will simplify your maintenance routine (20 minutes every 2000mi), but unless paired with hotter coils will not give you a hotter spark...it is only a triggering system, it's the coils that make the lightening.
 
goldy said:
I like ignition points, they really don't take much in the way of maintenance...but I must admit that there are times when I have been persuaded to go electronic. I'm a bloody caveman...I like stuff I can fix when it is broken, rather than replacing little 'black mystery boxes' when the sparks don't happen.
Keep in mind that electronic ignition will simplify your maintenance routine (20 minutes every 2000mi), but unless paired with hotter coils will not give you a hotter spark...it is only a triggering system, it's the coils that make the lightening.
Click to expand...

The black box has gone by the wayside goldy, just a 3 wire system now, coils and heat, but yes with points you can at least limp home if you have some basic tools on board. Good point on the coils... 40 year old coils should probably be replaced any way.
 
Appreciate all the info as always! Going to try the points out at first and eventually upgrade. As I am putting most of the engine back together, I wanted to know before I put the jugs and head back on if I should replace the cam chain roller. It is pretty eaten up, but can I do this without splitting the case? Here is a picture. Any help/info is appreciated!
 
yes re[place the roller and all the slider guides etc ,also get a new cam chain as well
does',t that unit just come out straightaway ?
 
If you can swing it... replace the entire cage and roller assembly to tighten it all up. What do the guide rails look like are they worn and chunked up also? Is the chain stretched past spec, if so timing is affected and you will see that the alignment marks will be off no matter what you do and that slop will eventually eat all the guide parts up again and fail... you can replace the chain without splitting the cases, just break the chain and get a clip type master, fasten the new chain on the old and pull it through... then take the clip type off and use a hard master and peen it on or use the clip type, I just prefer endless factory spec.

It's all up to you and your wallet, but you have it down and to put it back together with those worn out timing parts, you could be just getting some good practice... :o
 
yep, timing chain is like the number one thing to replace in any older motor can get quite worn on motors that have been neglected, oil change wise,old dirty/gritty, acidy oil is what wears 'em
 
Always appreciate the info! I replaced the plastic guides, roller and tensioner. Found some barely used ones on ebay for a good deal. The chain was still in spec, so I did not replace it. Although, while trying to put the juggs back on and messing with the new piston rings, I lost tension in the cam chain and it fell off the crank sprocket.......my luck/inexperience is getting the best of me. Is there an easy way to get it back on the sproket?? I havent tried very hard yet. I had to walk away at that point. Thanks for any insight!
 
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