1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build

I used to work at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute, (11-1/2yrs)
Their attorney told me I'll never work for them again before I sued to get my back fixed (made a nuisance of myself before that)
I spent a lot of time trying to get back there as Suzuki had plenty of work but I was laid off so they could move someone younger in
The wording was position no longer available, but, the position never changed.
I tried to explain the wording is important and they should have said they didn't want me specifically instead of saying my job no longer existed as it obviously did still exist
I had to sign what is basically a gagging order so can't go into any details that would prevent anyone enrolling there (although I did get agreement wording changed so they actually have to prove I prevented someone enrolling)
The truth obviously isn't something they want out there for all to see
 
crazypj said:
I have switch in the headlight ground lead, can start bike with lights off then flick switch for high/low
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I wired my headlight in to the running switch. Parking lights are on when the ignition is live.
 
crazypj said:
I used to work at Motorcycle Mechanics Institute, (11-1/2yrs)
Their attorney told me I'll never work for them again before I sued to get my back fixed (made a nuisance of myself before that)
I spent a lot of time trying to get back there as Suzuki had plenty of work but I was laid off so they could move someone younger in
The wording was position no longer available, but, the position never changed.
I tried to explain the wording is important and they should have said they didn't want me specifically instead of saying my job no longer existed as it obviously did still exist
I had to sign what is basically a gagging order so can't go into any details that would prevent anyone enrolling there (although I did get agreement wording changed so they actually have to prove I prevented someone enrolling)
The truth obviously isn't something they want out there for all to see
Click to expand...

Yikes, that sucks. I hate that so many times people have to sue their employers to make the company take responsibility for its obligations to the employee. It almost always ends badly for the employee. Frickin' walmartization of the country...
 
crazypj said:
1 ohm coils will work but I wouldn't use them, they are really designed for CDI or low dwell ignition systems
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I've been looking up a bunch of stuff (as I can't do much else at present)
seems 2.2 ohm are lowest primary resistance that should be used to keep things reliable
 
crazypj said:
I've been looking up a bunch of stuff (as I can't do much else at present)
seems 2.2 ohm are lowest primary resistance that should be used to keep things reliable
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Thanks again PJ, I'll keep the stockers for now unless they are bad.

My new "project" is finding a house to buy. Mortgages make my head hurt and my wallet empty :P
 
Yea, darn v=ir and p=iv messing with my grand plans.

Speaking of charging systems, I have a spare beat to hell stator from a CB350 I parted out a while ago. I think the Rick's Hot Shot charging system upgrade is cool and all, but am wondering if I couldn't achieve the same results by re-winding the spare stator and using it in conjunction with my Kohler R/R?

One of the guys on HondaTwins re-wound his into two sets of three windings instead of a set of four and a set of two as the 360 is stock. I'm wondering why I wouldn't want to just make it six windings in one big loop, but isn't there some EMI physics at work that makes two sets of windings better?
 
3 sets of 2 will result in 3 phase output. A 3 phase reg/ rect is needed, but the current will be smoother and a little higher due to efficiency.

1set of 6 will yield higher voltage, less current

Ricks might be 2 sets of 3 in parallel.

Ricks is 20 watts more than stock. Stock Is 130 w at 5 k rpm, ricks is 150 at same rpm.




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A three phase R/R has three yellow wires, right? I think I have one I picked up at a swap meet a while back.

If I recall from the HondaTwins thread, the windings opposite each other need to be wound backwards, right? One being clockwise and the other counterclockwise?
 
Friend of mine used to re-wind his 350 stators, couple for higher output but a few for the CDI ignition system he built.
Wasn't a fantastic mechanic but really loved playing with electricity ;D
You can measure wire dameter and amount of turns per post, then, just add some wire
Didn't actually take too long to re-wind a complete stator
 
crazypj said:
Friend of mine used to re-wind his 350 stators, couple for higher output but a few for the CDI ignition system he built.
Wasn't a fantastic mechanic but really loved playing with electricity ;D
You can measure wire dameter and amount of turns per post, then, just add some wire
Didn't actually take too long to re-wind a complete stator
Click to expand...

Yea, I ended up adding a bit more wire to my 650's charging rotor (it has an electromagnet rotor, not a permanent magnet rotor, and they fail constantly on that model of bike), and coupled with a Ford pickup regulator and a couple of Radio Shack rectifiers the thing actually has a functional charging system!

I was thinking since I had this spare stator and my '76 already has both charging circuits coupled together that rewiring for more power would be nice.
 
Well, I had some time to work on the 360 today, and the summary of the work is pretty much "when can I get rid of these $%&@ing points?"

I tore into the points, going so far as to replace the points with a NOS set from a member. When I removed the points plate, I noticed that one of the circlips that hold the advance weights on their pivot shafts was gone. The weight was still on the shaft, and the washer was sitting in the bottom of the points area, but no circlip to be found. It probably fell out last time I was fiddling with the timing. That was an unwelcome discovery!

Since I never throw anything out, I was able to find a replacement clip from the old broken points assembly. That's when I noticed the advance springs were pretty sprung as well. It just keeps getting better, doesn't it?

I got back to the task at hand of replacing the points and setting the gap and timing. This turned into a giant PITA as the advancer was flopping around the points lobe, making getting the timing set right difficult. I eventually got everything set up and statically timed, and then fired up the bike to dynamically time it. I was able to get it close with the timing light, but man was that thing bouncing all over the place.

I reved the bike a bit to check the advance, which worked fine. However, the throttle kept "sticking" at 3000-4000 RPMs and only coming down slowly. It appears the advance was very slow to un-advance. Fuuuuccccckkkk.

I suspect I may have found my issue with keeping the bike running ::)

It gets worse though - I tried to take the bike for a short ride in the back yard and it had no power. Some more poking and testing revealed the right cylinder was no longer firing.

At this point, I said more bad words and rolled the bike back into the barn. I'm going to leave it be until the Pamco unit arrives. I don't see the sense in throwing good money after bad to get new springs for the advancer and whatever else it needs.

There is one bright spot to today:

c9wrhtRl.jpg


The front tire is all mounted up, and after some persuasion was applied to the brake line wire bracket, clears everything with flying colors. It's something!
 
Be patient my young Padawan, the force is with you and in time, your ride will be whole...
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
Be patient my young Padawan, the force is with you and in time, your ride will be whole...
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Dude, I am so patient I am the English Patient here ;D

Speaking of, a late build Triumph Spitfire followed my Dad home - build date 6/79, delivered to the US sometime in 1980. It's all original except for someone primering the hood. It's a shame, as the original paint would have buffed out. The exhaust manifold is cracked in two places from the heat from the early catalytic converter, so headers will replace it. Other than that and a torn window in the soft top, it's ready to go. The Triumph TR4a just got back from getting a new driver's floor installed, and I have that running pretty sweet on Datsun 240z carbs. New carpet went into it, so it is starting to resemble a real car too.

I think I need to replace the Toyota Corolla brake master and booster currently on it, as it's a bit overbraked right now. I'm thinking a late '80s Honda master and booster, as those little Civics didn't weigh much more than the TR4a did.

So, yea, the day wasn't all crying into my beer :D
 
I liked those old, tractor engined triumphs. I had a 67 midget I was going to restore ( mg/triumph same things to me). I got it from a buddy who had 2 spitfires in his garage.

Those spitfires looked like fighters waiting to take off.


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crazypj said:
Unless the Pamco has electronic advance you'll still need new springs
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Ahhh, but the new Pamco setup does have electronic advance! ;D It replaces everything under the points cover except for the camshaft.

Depending on when the Pamcos start shipping, I might still end up replacing the springs on the advancer and getting the system running like it is. It was getting pretty frustrating fighting with the darn thing though. Do you have a source / part number for a spring that you know works with the 360s?
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
I liked those old, tractor engined triumphs. I had a 67 midget I was going to restore ( mg/triumph same things to me). I got it from a buddy who had 2 spitfires in his garage.

Those spitfires looked like fighters waiting to take off.
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I love the body on the TR4 - the Michelotti design is very beautiful in my eyes. The Spitfire has a lot more aggressive design as befits its name, but it is also Michelotti's work. Man that 1979/80 model is a pig though - 7.5:1 compression and 53 HP. I think we have a spare 1500 motor lying around, so perhaps we can wake it up a bit. I think switching to a pair of SU carbs from the single emissions Zenith-Stromberg alone would make a big difference, but at the cost of the originality of the car.
 
Put a Hayabusa motor in it. 1400 cc , nearly 200 hp. Hold on for dear life.


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Miatabusa:

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/1519/PostComment
 
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