1976 Honda cj 360
- Thread starter Bromz
- Start date
did you read the instructions on the cans? The reason for the "wrinkle" w most clear coats is as follows.
With most paints...If you dont recoat within 10 minutes, you need to wait 7 (seven) days.
The reason being. As it dries,(more than 10 minutes) the fresh paint coat develops a "skin", this "skin" traps the "solvents (thinners)" and they need time to dry. If you recoat during this "skin" period, the solvents in the clear, attack the skin. and cause it to wrinkle...kinda like a weak paint remover solution.
So, you need to apply coats either, within 10 minutes (basically wet) of previous coat or wait 7 days for "hard cure"
With most paints...If you dont recoat within 10 minutes, you need to wait 7 (seven) days.
The reason being. As it dries,(more than 10 minutes) the fresh paint coat develops a "skin", this "skin" traps the "solvents (thinners)" and they need time to dry. If you recoat during this "skin" period, the solvents in the clear, attack the skin. and cause it to wrinkle...kinda like a weak paint remover solution.
So, you need to apply coats either, within 10 minutes (basically wet) of previous coat or wait 7 days for "hard cure"
interceptor
Coast to Coast
Really enjoying your thread here. Good job on the engine. You did a great job, and the help has been excellent and ongoing.
Good luck with the rest of your build, I`ll be following.
Good luck with the rest of your build, I`ll be following.
Bromz
Been Around the Block
Well got the foot pegs,brake pedal,battery box and a few others sand blasted today. I decided to keep the brake pedal and foot rest raw and just throw a couple of coats of clear on
Got the side covers sanded and primered. After I had a couple coats on I realized one of the covers is gonna need a little more sanding.
Going to try some color tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Chris
Got the side covers sanded and primered. After I had a couple coats on I realized one of the covers is gonna need a little more sanding.
Going to try some color tomorrow. Wish me luck!
Chris
Luck
Been Around the Block
Its all in the prep work. 
Looks good so far. I wasn't aware that people were using paint cans as often as they do. One thing I learned years ago when racing RC cars and painting bodies was heating up paint cans in hot water, really hot water, helps to add pressure within the can. This helps with better atomization of the paint and in return a person gets a smoother finish. Im not sure how you are going to proceed with your painting but I figured it couldn't hurt to throw it out there.
That brake looks pretty cool in raw metal. Cant wait to see some paint on the beast!
Looks good so far. I wasn't aware that people were using paint cans as often as they do. One thing I learned years ago when racing RC cars and painting bodies was heating up paint cans in hot water, really hot water, helps to add pressure within the can. This helps with better atomization of the paint and in return a person gets a smoother finish. Im not sure how you are going to proceed with your painting but I figured it couldn't hurt to throw it out there. That brake looks pretty cool in raw metal. Cant wait to see some paint on the beast!
3DogNate
"You Meet the Nicest People on a Honda"
You could always make a zinc plating tank for about $15 and zinc plate the brake and footrest pedals (along with the various old ass bolts and stuff) there are a ton of resources for doing it on the cheap...
Looking good... I still regret not picking that bike up...
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Looking good... I still regret not picking that bike up...
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Luck
Been Around the Block
I would tell you to clear coat it before applying the decals. Let it dry a few days, come back with a scotch brite pad or ultra fine (000) steel wool and go over the entire cleared surface and get it semi smooth. Use prep sol or tar and grease remover to clean off any oil from your hands or anything else that may have gotten on the scuffed part. Give it a final wipe down with a clean rag, then a tack cloth. Apply the decal, and begin your clear coat. Do this process 3 or 4 times and you should have a side cover that's near perfect. Remember never sand through the coat of clear you last applied. Your only trying to give the old clear some tooth in order to give the new coats of clear something to grab onto. First coat should go on looking near dry, getting wetter each additional coat. Hope it helps. G 
Bromz
Been Around the Block
Well got these in from dime city cycles
Clip on bars are on the way! I'm thinking of going to a local paint shop for my tank and side covers. Just not sure yet. I've done fine on the frame and other parts but really want the top notch work on the tank. Maybe I should try it myself first?
Chris
Clip on bars are on the way! I'm thinking of going to a local paint shop for my tank and side covers. Just not sure yet. I've done fine on the frame and other parts but really want the top notch work on the tank. Maybe I should try it myself first?
Chris
3DogNate
"You Meet the Nicest People on a Honda"
Bromz said:
These bikes are so tiny, I would not lower it. I for sure would not run clip-on bars above the tree unless you are able to get a full bite on the for tube. Is 1.25" going to work for that? Are you going to keep mid controls? Or go with rear sets... I would hate clip-on bars with mid-controls as it would have me hunched over @ 6' tall. With you keeping the side covers and stock seat... I'd go for a set of super bike or BMX style bar esp if you are keeping mid controls.
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Bromz
Been Around the Block
well I am kind of short at 5-10" so with stock shocks i'm not completely flat footed or comfortable. Im also not sure on the width of the clamps on the clip ons. I for sure wouldn't go above without a full bite. Bars are on the way so no going back now. Also im not changing the mid controls at first. I am keeping the rear foot pegs if I have to stretch out quickly cause mostly my rides are 15 miles. Gonna give it a try before i invest in rear sets. So, clip ons above if I get full bite? But the bike has to come down a little for me to be comfy.