1982 CX500 tracker

[frozenhawaiian]

http://cx500forum.com/forum/general-discussion/10-quick-reference.html

scroll down a bit and you will find all sorts of stuff

but your bike has the correct front end so something is wrong with your clymers

so here is a link to the factory service manual your bike specifics are covered in section 23 marked 81 addendum

https://docs.google.com/folderview?id=0B6EDVo72Y5BfNjlkMjVjZGYtN2RjNi00ZjhmLTlkY2MtMTFjODVjY2IwYThk&usp=drive_web&hl=en&tid=0B6EDVo72Y5BfMDEwYmExZWEtMzZiZS00YjdlLWFiODEtZDQwNmVlNDM5YzE2

thats an awesome resource. thanks for that.

PB blaster and a breaker bar and I managed to get the front wheel off. also got the front brake disk separated from the rim. disk is off to a machine shop to get resurfaced and vented.

 

[cxman]

you should get a stainless steel front brake line

if you look on that page you will find a supplier for them a good safety upgrade and makes the brake a lot better with nicer feel

 

[frozenhawaiian]

I was planning on the stainless brake line, did it on my CB900 and it's a nice upgrade

you should get a stainless steel front brake line

if you look on that page you will find a supplier for them a good safety upgrade and makes the brake a lot better with nicer feel

 

[frozenhawaiian]

real productive day today. got the engine separated from the frame. swing arms is off, carbs are off. basically the bike is fully disassembled. well mostly anyway. went ahead and ordered up new throttle cables, clutch cable and speedo cable since the old ones were pretty had it. also ordered a stainless front brake line.

what I started the day with:

after a few hours of work:

got the carbs off, haven't gotten into them yet but at a glance they don't look too bad.

after getting stem out I wasn't quite sure what to think, but after cleaning out 33 year old grease things look good, the ball bearings and they raceways have zero corrosion, not that it's that big a deal since I'm replacing them with tapered bearings.

bench o' parts, all awaiting attention the only thing sI'm reall dreading is dealing with the ratnest of a wiring harness,

CXman: question, is the key assembly identical in the 1982 as the 1981, the bike came without a key assembly and I'm trying to figure out if this unit from DCC would work on my 1981
http://www.dimecitycycles.com/aftermarket-honda-cx500c-gl1000-gl1100-cbx1000-replacement-ignition-switch.html

 

[cxman]

absolutely not 81 is a cdi bike 82 a ti bike the key switches will not interchange

a few other things

the accelerator pump fuel supply line (aluminum ) looks bent to me and may not re seal replace it

dont bother with re using the ball bearings get this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Balls-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Kit-Street-22-1011-22-1011-/231113335523?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf6da2e3&vxp=mtr

way better steering

pull the fan blade clean the back and check the plastic for cracks near the aluminum hub

replace the tach cable it 30 years old 12-15 buck and you have to pull he rad to get to it do it now

check your intake boots over for cracks

 

[frozenhawaiian]

absolutely not 81 is a cdi bike 82 a ti bike the key switches will not interchange

a few other things

the accelerator pump fuel supply line (aluminum ) looks bent to me and may not re seal replace it

dont bother with re using the ball bearings get this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/All-Balls-Steering-Stem-Bearing-Kit-Street-22-1011-22-1011-/231113335523?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cf6da2e3&vxp=mtr

way better steering

pull the fan blade clean the back and check the plastic for cracks near the aluminum hub

replace the tach cable it 30 years old 12-15 buck and you have to pull he rad to get to it do it now

check your intake boots over for cracks

you're a damn guru with these bikes man.
I'm replacing all the cables, ordered new throttle, clutch, choke, tach and speedo cables today. I also ordered that exact bearing kit as well.

the line you're referring to, is that the aluminum line running between the carbs?

the fan is stuck on there good, you you guys have some trick to getting them off? I put some PB blaster too it, the retaining bolt came right off but the fan is still stuck fast to the engine. I don't wanna put to much muscle on the fan and risk breaking one of the blades.

I was afraid of that key not being interchangeable, any leads as to where I might be able to find a suitable replacement? OEM or aftermarket, doesn't really matter to me.

 

[cxman]

yes the aluminum line its bent so the rings will be pinched and leak

the fan is not stuck you need to pull it get a M14 x 1.5 about 2 inches long thread it into the hub snug it give it a tap

snug it some more and it will pop off just dont get to brutal

if your lock is there but no key you can get one made from the code on the lock

here is one used and you could ask the guy for the helmet lock if you care

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Honda-CX500-Ignition-Switch-with-Key-/261501197917?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce2af9e5d&vxp=mtr

and here is a new one and the way i would go

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261501270331?lpid=82

if you cant find the cross pipe let me know or consider this if you have the budget

http://cx500forum.com/index.php?/topic/18043-first-impression-of-murrays-carbs/

i make these

 

[frozenhawaiian]

CX man, do you happen to know the part number for accelerator pump line? I'm looking at the exploded view diagrams in the manual but I'm not positive as to exactly which part is the one I need.

 

[cxman]

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/506f7ef9f8700229747b88a2/carburetor

part number 10


JOINT SET, FUEL
16026-449-751


it is nla but i have some somewhere lol

didnt you order pipes?

 

[frozenhawaiian]

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/506f7ef9f8700229747b88a2/carburetor

part number 10


JOINT SET, FUEL
16026-449-751


it is nla but i have some somewhere lol

didnt you order pipes?

bingo, thanks, the pipe sections to replace the crossover chamber? yeah I did. also was able to find a friend fo a friend who's going to sand blast the frame and swing arm before they go to the powder coat shop. and is going to soda blast the engine for me before it gets painted. the new tach cable showed and new throttle cable also came int he mail today.

oh hey CXman, one other things. the factory rear shocks are totally shot so I'm replacing them, planning on buying a pair of progressive rear shocks. any thoughts on the series 12 vs the series 14? also what length would be proper for the CX?

 

[cxman]

crap i should have gone with my gut i thought that was you that ordered those pipes i was going to throw a fuel cross over tube inside one

of the exhaust pipes for you but they got shipped already

shock length should be between 12,5 and 13.5 depending on look and rear tire diameter

i think the choice between 12 / 13 /14 series springs will be made by looks or in some cases body weight / load

so call them give them the weight of the bike and your weight and they will give you the best combination and choices

 

[frozenhawaiian]

things are coming along nicely. the frame and swingarm are at the powdercoat shop and should be ready in about a week. parts keep coming in, my carb book arrived today. my project for this afternoon was to get the fork seals replaced. got one most of the way apart. spring came out without an issue, with a little PB blaster the allen screw at the bottom came out with minimal fuss. then I hit a snag, according to my clymer manual at this point the 2 pieces should seperate, is this correct? or does the fork seal need to some out first? also, the keeper clip holding the fork seal in looks like absolute hell, any advice on getting the bugger out?

here's where I'm at currently.

 

[Joe Suzuki]

Yes, you need to get the retaining clip out, then drive the seal out. You can use a small flat bladed screwdriver or other right angled pick or whatever fits the bill. Just be careful not to scratch the fork tube in the process. Take your time, wrap the screwdriver with electrical tape or shrink tube to help prevent scratching and go to town. Good luck!

 

[frozenhawaiian]

Yes, you need to get the retaining clip out, then drive the seal out. You can use a small flat bladed screwdriver or other right angled pick or whatever fits the bill. Just be careful not to scratch the fork tube in the process. Take your time, wrap the screwdriver with electrical tape or shrink tube to help prevent scratching and go to town. Good luck!

that explains it, stupid clymer manual

 

[cxman]

the 82 fork has a proper circlip in it you will need a pair of slightly curved long nose circlip pliers to remove it

you should also spray some pb blaster around it to loosen up the crap and oxide

once the circlip is out you can use the lower to slide hammer the seal and slide bushing out

to replace the slide bushing and seal you will need the right size seal driver

here this is not exact but may help you

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/replace_fork_seals/

 

[frozenhawaiian]

the 82 fork has a proper circlip in it you will need a pair of slightly curved long nose circlip pliers to remove it

you should also spray some pb blaster around it to loosen up the crap and oxide

once the circlip is out you can use the lower to slide hammer the seal and slide bushing out

to replace the slide bushing and seal you will need the right size seal driver

here this is not exact but may help you

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/replace_fork_seals/

got it, where might one find a seal driver?

 

[cxman]

ask on the cx forum (sorry) i have all the factory tools so dont know the short cuts BUT ......

my under standing is there is a size of abs drain pipe that fits over the tube

that they use a 2 foot chunk of to drive the seal down and into place

 

[frozenhawaiian]

ask on the cx forum (sorry) i have all the factory tools so dont know the short cuts BUT ......

my under standing is there is a size of abs drain pipe that fits over the tube

that they use a 2 foot chunk of to drive the seal down and into place

bingo, I'll ask on the CX forum.

 

[frozenhawaiian]

so once the paint on the forks is good and cured I'll reassemble the forks. in the meantime today I decided to change gears and put some time in on the polisher working on the rocker covers. one question. I went to pull the wheel bearings out so I can replace them with the new all balls units I bought. this rubber ring in glued to the hug, does it stay in and the wheel bearings come out the other side? also the drive for the speedo looks bent, like the last guy took a screwdriver to it for some reason.

well these look crappy.

polishing time

getting there, and that spot isn't on the metal, it's just a spec of dust that got inside my phones camera.

not bad. more work to come on these tomorrow.

 

[cxman]

that seal is not glued in its melted if you buy a all balls bearing kit a new seal comes in the kit

the speedo drive washer is FuBARED so check that it did not wreck the speedo drive plastic drive tangs if it did the speedo

wont work and last check that the speedo cable and speedometer turn and that a seized cable or head did not cause that

you need part number 8 very common and cheap from any honda dealer

http://www.hondapartshouse.com/oemparts/a/hon/506f7f1cf8700229747b88e7/front-wheel-disc