350F rebuild

SONICJK said:
Sweet.
You work fast amigo!

How much for all that if you don't mind my asking?
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Ya I need my wheels back the temperature is finally breaking and not making it miserable to ride.

So the cleaning was $25 re-surfacing was $60 Hone $45 and if the cylinder needs decking then $60 for that. He is going to measure and said he might just kiss it with the mill to make sure its dead on.

All in $130 more than I wanted to spend but better than having hot oil on my legs. That sucked.

This is the place BTW http://www.therestorationshoponline.com/
 
So it just at random started spewing oil all over you?
Like a geyser? Or you looked down and had oil on your pants?
 
SONICJK said:
So it just at random started spewing oil all over you?
Like a geyser? Or you looked down and had oil on your pants?
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I was on the highway around 70mph 8K and started to smell something, and looked down and on the exhaust was oil everywhere made it home looked at the motor and the backside was covered in fresh oil along with my shins on my pants on both legs.

The motor had always leaked I knew that from the PO. But never like this. So I got home cleaned up the bike then ran it (which is where I took those original pics) and saw the backside of the motor was puking and the in the well where the #4 plug is was full of oil - like a pool.
 
Oh I also had steam coming out of the breather hose - unrelated but interesting with the high humidity level, heat and condensation. But the oil was fine, no milky bubbles.

So whats the best way to clean the tops of those pistons? Carb cleaner and scotchbrite?
 
Sonreir said:
They're just gonna get dirty again, though. So don't go crazy.
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Ya I figured as much. I just hit them with some carb cleaner and scotch brite to knock off the crud back down to bare metal.

Figured might as well.
 
silentsvn said:
Ya I figured as much. I just hit them with some carb cleaner and scotch brite to knock off the crud back down to bare metal.

Figured might as well.
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Hey the more shit baked on the pistons the higher the compression in my book 8)
;D
 
SONICJK said:
Hey the more shit baked on the pistons the higher the compression in my book 8)
;D
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Haha True.

I wanted to inspect them though. It became pretty apparent the PO told some tall tales to sell this bike.
 
Just talked the guys at the machine shop and had them measure the block in case it needed to be surfaced. Apparently in between the #2 & #3 cylinders was .06" out.

So they are hitting that real quick. To make sure its all nice and flat.
 
Okay so I got the head and the cylinders back.

I got the piston rings and new full gasket set from Dime City.

Is there anything specific or any tricks I need to know putting it all back together?

Im going to scrub the goo off the fins BTW.

The Spec's for the cylinders are

Service Limit: 1.8543"

1: 1.840"
2: 1.841"
3: 1.842"
4: 1.840"

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Looks fantastic!
The only things to note is that it is a hell of a lot easier to get those jugs on the pistons with a helper.
Also cut you some wooden pieces to slide in between the block and the pistons to hold them steady while you're sliding the jug on.

Ring compressors are not required although if you're doing it alone some hose clamps might come in handy.

Biggest thing is if it doesn't fit, don't force it! The pistons should slide in with little resistance, if you need more than a few taps from a rubber hammer take them off and try again or you'll break rings (ask how i know)

And get out your manual and make absolutely sure your cam timing is perfect
 
Nice and clean! Definitely try to put the pistons in and compress the rings by hand. I found it way easier and less stressful than hose clamps and a rubber mallet which just doesn't sound like a good idea. I even had minimal taper on my sleeve due to the overbore to 466 and it wasn't that hard. You may have a few cuts on you fingers after but piece of mind knowing they slid in straight was worth it.
 
Thanks for the tips. Im going to try to enlist a buddy. I mean who doesnt like rebuilding motors....

Im battling the f-ing base gasket right now. GD thing will not come off. Tried soaking it in permatex over night, heat, tapping with a hammer and nothing.

Its soaking in WD40 right now.
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
Are you going to clean the combustion chambers, lap the valves, and replace the valve seals while you have the head off?
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combustion chambers - cleaned
lap the valves, and replace the valve seals - leakage test showed they are fine right now.
 
My gasket was baked on as well. PIA! Do not scrape it off with anything that will gouge. I used a dremel abrasive buff tip http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=511E and the gasket came right off.
 
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