360 Timing challenge for a sensei!
- Thread starter renslow
- Start date
Of course -
(I took the 8mm bolt/washer off the end of the camshaft to find that indicator mark for the widest opening)
When I get back in town I might make a little video of whats going on. Showing the points/and a quick kick to see whats happening.
I had a mechanic " " come out to take a look but I don't think he was very familiar with what I was working with. He ended up telling me the camshaft might have been worn out....? wtf?
(I took the 8mm bolt/washer off the end of the camshaft to find that indicator mark for the widest opening)
When I get back in town I might make a little video of whats going on. Showing the points/and a quick kick to see whats happening.
I had a mechanic " " come out to take a look but I don't think he was very familiar with what I was working with. He ended up telling me the camshaft might have been worn out....? wtf?
Yeah I was a bit shocked when he said that.
That the lobe where the bumper on the points hit was worn out? Haha craigslist's finest.
Well shit...
When I get back into town I plan on going through all the tune up necessities. valves/timing/
I mean I'm getting real good at this stuff so I'll keep going through procedures. Do you think the valves areeee maybe causing this? I feel like it would still RUN or atleast start even if it were to be off by a couple thousands of a MM. The feeler gauges I had were a bit bent from being at the bottom of my toolbox so thats why i plan on geting some fresh adjustments with a new set but they were still in good specs.
Pretty bummed to be honest -
That the lobe where the bumper on the points hit was worn out? Haha craigslist's finest.
Well shit...
When I get back into town I plan on going through all the tune up necessities. valves/timing/
I mean I'm getting real good at this stuff so I'll keep going through procedures. Do you think the valves areeee maybe causing this? I feel like it would still RUN or atleast start even if it were to be off by a couple thousands of a MM. The feeler gauges I had were a bit bent from being at the bottom of my toolbox so thats why i plan on geting some fresh adjustments with a new set but they were still in good specs.
Pretty bummed to be honest -
renslow said:
I'm not sure I follow so to be sure: You set the points gap to 0.014" or close to that as the maximum amount that the points open which would be somewhere around or after TDC and the gap stays the same for a while before the points close again.
There is no indicator mark for points gap or any need to remove the cam end bolt. Just turn the motor until one set is as far open as it gets and adjust the gap to 0.014". Repeat on teh other set.
Is that what you did or did you try to adjust the gap at some specific time?
You'll see the small little dot/pin mark on the end of the camshaft. Once it lines up with the little bumper(s) on the points you'll see thats the oblique point of the camshaft. It's pretty straight forward even without using that to know when the points are at its widest but i've used that just incase.
And yes i've double checked even after everything set.
And yes i've double checked even after everything set.
That mark is there to align the points cam at TDC. Honda used to use a line or a small indentation. You have to check the manual to see if it is supposed to be UP or down at LT (TDC on the left side) It's not really there as an indication of max lift on the cam. Points stay open for a long time.
So I just got back to the garage to check some stuff out and I noticed that the condenser wasn't bolted down very tight. The screws are stripped so I've got some new stainless allen heads to replace them. Would a faulty ground from the condenser possibly cause this?
I'm heading back to work on it tonight just incase but i thought i would ask anyways
I'm heading back to work on it tonight just incase but i thought i would ask anyways
The points dont arc anymore which makes sense having the condenser grounded now. I hate missing little things like that..
So I noticed after I kicked it over about a million times my plugs were dry. I'm getting a decent little blue arc on both plugs when I ground them to the engine so im back to checking out the carbs to see if something is blocking fuel. Timing is dead on as far as using a test light so i'm back to square one with timing/spark/fuel...It's been such a ridiculous cycle I can't wait to figure out whats been going on with this thing.
So I noticed after I kicked it over about a million times my plugs were dry. I'm getting a decent little blue arc on both plugs when I ground them to the engine so im back to checking out the carbs to see if something is blocking fuel. Timing is dead on as far as using a test light so i'm back to square one with timing/spark/fuel...It's been such a ridiculous cycle I can't wait to figure out whats been going on with this thing.
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
my rd had all of this going on as well, and starter fluid did the trick.
only needed it once, now starts up every time, idk why.
on a related note for the big brains, how can you tell if your advancer is 180 out?
the exhaust continuously backfiring still makes me think its just too rich.
if your plugs are dry now, you cant go any further til that issue is resolved.
only needed it once, now starts up every time, idk why.
on a related note for the big brains, how can you tell if your advancer is 180 out?
the exhaust continuously backfiring still makes me think its just too rich.
if your plugs are dry now, you cant go any further til that issue is resolved.
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
You say it seems like the timing is 180 deg out? Shouldn't hear a loud bang unless that spark fired on an open exhaust valve. If you have the timing set correctly, there's only two things I know that can do that.
Coils are are hooked up backwards. This can be in the wiring under the tank you can have the wires in the points housing going to wrong points.
The next one is the one that gets most everyone, the cam on the end of the advance unit is 180 deg out. People take them apart clean them and put them back together wrong. That DOT you are talking about on the end of the cam needs to face the arrow side of the advance unit.
If you have got all that figured then just ignore this post.
Coils are are hooked up backwards. This can be in the wiring under the tank you can have the wires in the points housing going to wrong points.
The next one is the one that gets most everyone, the cam on the end of the advance unit is 180 deg out. People take them apart clean them and put them back together wrong. That DOT you are talking about on the end of the cam needs to face the arrow side of the advance unit.
If you have got all that figured then just ignore this post.
You know what...now that you mention the advancing unit that makes the most sense to me. The timing is not 180 degrees out, i've made sure of this by making sure its on compression stroke(mentioning timing off the points). The wires are correct coming from the points/condenser/coils, theirs only 2 colors? 3 colors? Blue, Yellow, Black/white stripe for coils, so thats an easy mistake but I'm somewhat familiar with how it's suppose to be setup. I swear that wiring harness is imprinted in my head after dealing with this bike and it's really simple when you think about it. I've even had a buddy of mine go over the wiring incase I missed something.
So the dot on the end of the camshaft facing the arrow side of the advance unit. This is something I didnt even check ! ??? I've been so caught up on the timing/fuel/ wiring i didnt even consider it...
With that being said -
It makes sense though..Okay so I'm going to be out of town this weekend unfortunately so I wont be able to wrench on her until Monday or Tuesday but I will definitely be sure to come back with some results.
Ya'll are giving me hope again, I need a big ol' 'built by do-the-ton' sticker on this bike when it's all done ;D
So the dot on the end of the camshaft facing the arrow side of the advance unit. This is something I didnt even check ! ??? I've been so caught up on the timing/fuel/ wiring i didnt even consider it...
With that being said -
It makes sense though..Okay so I'm going to be out of town this weekend unfortunately so I wont be able to wrench on her until Monday or Tuesday but I will definitely be sure to come back with some results.
Ya'll are giving me hope again, I need a big ol' 'built by do-the-ton' sticker on this bike when it's all done ;D
Sorry for making another post but I have one more question.
If i were to take off the points plate and snap a quick picture of it would you be able to tell if it's 180 off? Or would I need to take it off and find some reference point.
What i'm getting at is I can make a quick stop to my buddys garage before I head out and snap a quick picture of it and upload it to see what were dealing with.
If i were to take off the points plate and snap a quick picture of it would you be able to tell if it's 180 off? Or would I need to take it off and find some reference point.
What i'm getting at is I can make a quick stop to my buddys garage before I head out and snap a quick picture of it and upload it to see what were dealing with.
raptormeat
Been Around the Block
cant hurt, ill be here all night
