71 cl350 wont fire up...PLEASE HELP!!!!

S

snolte00

Active Member
Ok so I re-installed the electric start and reconnected the battery and everything else and for whatever reason the bike just will not fire up. This is my first build so i didnt do anything crazy. I didnt take the engine out or anything like that and before I tore it down it ran off the electric start. The carbs were cleaned out and put back properly and they are getting fuel. Does anyone have any advice? This is really starting to frustrate me. Are there any tricks to getting it to fire up or could I have missed something? But if the lights and electric start work shouldnt it fire up??? Please help...

thanks guys

Stephen
 
All of the hand controls are gone except the start button so there is no on off, its in neutral, brand new plugs, and I thought the clutch didnt have to be pulled in while in neutral??? Like i said everything works it just wont fire up...
 
We temporarliy bypassed the kill switch. Im not getting enough/any spark. The neutral light comes on. I took off the stator cover and oil poured out which Im told is normal. But how can the alternator create power and spark with oil in there??? Im stumped. I originally unplugged everything in the headlight bucket and hooked up what was "needed" i can get the electric start to work and the carbs are getting fuel so it has to be spark... Somebody please help Im beyond pissed off at this thing.

Thanks

Stephen
 
dont get stressed dude i am in the same boat. I get spark but it's weak. Have to get a repair manual and run down the checklist if no spark. this is what my chiltons manul says:

1 ignition switch?
2 kill switch?
3. dead battery?
4. blown 15 amp fuse (by the battery)
5. bad spark plugs ( just replace them they are 3 bucks)
6. properly set plug gap (0.6-0.7 mm with feeler gauge)
7 check points wires disconnected? Loose? corroded connectors?
8 Plug leads damaged or defective? ---replace coils and wires!!!
9. ignition coils defective-replace
10 condenser defective-replace
11. damaged insulators at points terminal- replace points.
12. points grouded at point plate.. check insulation on points wires.

I am to the point i am ready to buy new coils, wires, plug heads, a condensor and see what happens.

be cool man this is supposed to be therapeutic :o
 
1 ignition switch?------------------good
2 kill switch?-----------------------bypassed
3. dead battery?-------------------nope
4. blown 15 amp fuse (by the battery)--------------------nope
5. bad spark plugs ( just replace them they are 3 bucks)----------brand new
6. properly set plug gap (0.6-0.7 mm with feeler gauge)----------probably not
7 check points wires disconnected? Loose? corroded connectors?------will check but never messed with them.
8 Plug leads damaged or defective? ---replace coils and wires!!!---------worked a month ago but will consider
9. ignition coils defective-replace--------will check
10 condenser defective-replace----------will check
11. damaged insulators at points terminal- replace points.--------again, didnt touch
12. points grouded at point plate.. check insulation on points wires.-----didnt touch

So I dont know, Ive been back tracking for a couple days now. Every wire in the bucket is not connected but I am pretty sure everything needed is... Do you have anything as far as what is and isnt needed in the bucket as far as grounds and hot wires?

Thanks again
 
you shouldnt really have to have any of that stuff hooked up to run except for the kill switch bypassed and the ignition switch plugged in. pretty much all that crap is turn signals, headlights, horns etc.
 
That's what I'm thinking but I can't understand why I don't have a visible spark if I have spark at all.
I have neutral light going, the kill switch bypassed to my knowledge( but if you could explain exactly what "bypassed" consists of) that would be great, and when I ground the electric start wire it turns over like a champ. :/
 
just plug the black and white wire that goes to the power the coils to the solid black wire which is general power. you prob have done this.
 
idk try turning it at night and make sure you are getting spark at the points. at least then you can narrow it down to coils / plug wires problem
 
Didn't I read you said you didn't have spark? If that's so, that's at least part of your problem. What do the plugs look like? Gassy, sooty, etc.? Have you tried replacing the plugs with new ones? (opps, I see you have new plugs) Assuming the kill switch is bypassed correctly, did you try kick starting it?

You need fuel, spark and compression (at the right time, so have you made sure the timing is properly set)?
 
Figured it out guys. Thanks for the help everyone, start laughing now. In my cluster f of wires I didnt see that I didnt have the coil wire hooked up at all...duh. I said screw the electric start because it wouldnt start off and am now just using the kick. I got it running, not perfect but it started, idles, and was rideable. Ill get my vm30s tomorrow and all should be good.

Thanks

Stephen
 

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good to hear man. I did chuckle a little but hey now you know. I just put some mikunis on my cb350 but my bike is not together enough to start. Im getting excited though. curious to see how they work for you keep us updated. What are planning on doing with that seat pan... a kickflip
 
No....thats dumb.....obviousy a heel flip. lol. I have another thread about the seat and so far everyone seems to like it. I have a DCC fiberglass shell too but I layed the deck on there for fun and kinda fell in love with it. We'll see if I keep it, I like it for now. As for the mikunis Im excited too. My keihins were shot so I bought the vm30s, which with the pods and exhaust( which is louder than God himself speaking ) should work well together. Ill keep it all posted.

Thanks

Stephen
 
Funny I have had the same probelm with my 71 CL350.

It was running fine, then the main fuse blew. Replaced the fuse then one of the regulator wires got disconnected, causing the regulator to blow up, resulting in a dead battery. Replaced the regulator & rectifier (for good measure) & the battery & she was running perfectly. Then we had to open her up to work on the brake lights & drained the battery. Now she only runs on the ignition switch position, but only for 20 minutes before cutting out, & none of the electrics work.

I am hoping it is just a drained battery so the bike has been on a battery tender for the past 10 hours.

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