'74 CB360 rear sets

dp9

Coast to Coast
I just did this write up for someone on my show 'n shine thread, so i figured I'd post it here too.

Rear sets, as per request:
I used the cheapest universal rearsets i could find on ebay ($99+ the ride) and put them in the passenger peg holes. fit without a problem. they were orig alum color, so i sprayed them black with a rattle can. they'll have a nice worn look soon. I used some alum tubing and clevis rod ends (cheapest I could find, $15 for 8 ft of tubing, and rod ends were $5 ea.) from McMaster-Carr for the linkage. tapped the tubing for the male rod ends (5/16-24). I used a RH thread and a LH threaded rod end for each linkage. I didnt have room for bolt heads and nuts in the clevises, so I used some clevis pins with e-clips from McMaster-Carr.

Left side: Used the stock shift lever, cut to length, and drilled a hole for the clevis pin. Had to clearance the tubing in one spot for a bolt that stuck out. just used an angle grinder for that.
2010-07-16164146.jpg

2010-07-16164213.jpg


Right side: I attached the linkage to the little arm that the rear brake light switch hooks onto. It was just a hook, so I had a buddy weld a regular washer onto it. Now the linkage can push on it. I hooked the spring for the brake light switch around the clevis pin btwn the lever arm and the rod end. no problems. I left the rest of the brake system alone, and just cut the stock brake lever off just below where the spring contacts it.
2010-07-16163928.jpg

2010-07-16163957.jpg
 
nah, I made sure that the shift lever on the trans and the lever arm on the rear set were the same length and at the same angle, so the shift lever on the rear set has the exact same amount of travel as the stock mid sets did. I havent had a problem shifting it yet. it does look a little off in the pic, but its just from me being a crappy photog.
 
Seems like your rear break is useless now, I cant imagine how you can exert the same pressure, or even close on that little stub as the original pedal.
 
Saml01 said:
Seems like your rear break is useless now, I cant imagine how you can exert the same pressure, or even close on that little stub as the original pedal.

I adjusted the rear brake down to where it contacts as soon as I move the lever. aside from that, 70% of your braking force is exerted on the front anyway, so I wasnt too concerned. but you're right, its not as good as it was.
 
The force of the back brake is developed in the lever and simply transmitted thru “that little stub”. The stub does look a little thin. Is it possible to make a new thicker plate? I am not sure you would even need to do that. I would like to change the geometry a little but I like the setup and it looks good to me.
 
Back
Top Bottom