75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
- Thread starter MiniatureNinja
- Start date
"Nothing is lighter than a hole" is my favorite thing I've heard.crazypj said:
Also, is it possible to push the cam chain tensioner down through the top of the case without splitting the case or using the "pushbar pulling tool" ?
I added a couple mounts for the aluminum electronics tray, didnt have enough carbon fiber to make a new one so I had to use aluminum.
Those "rails" along the frame will hold the seat in place
I'm getting better at welding
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teazer said:
Wisdom! I've had competitors that needed your consulting services - you can talk them out of the hundreds of dollars of titanium fasteners "aloft" in the rig of their 10,000 lb sailboats so I can find them a more appropriate home on my pick up!
Welds are indeed looking improved!
If proboltusa.com sold the right length 10mm bolts for my engine mounts I would be using them. Lol.
Valves in! Getting closer. Yes they were leak tested, poured a small amount of acetone in the ports, none leaked out. I thought I would have to lap them, but the machine shop that did the seats did it for me, which I thought was nice of them.
Oh by the way, notice the oil stain lines on the head inside the reservoirs? Bike only had a side stand... haha
Valves in! Getting closer. Yes they were leak tested, poured a small amount of acetone in the ports, none leaked out. I thought I would have to lap them, but the machine shop that did the seats did it for me, which I thought was nice of them.
Oh by the way, notice the oil stain lines on the head inside the reservoirs? Bike only had a side stand... haha
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Sonreir said:
oh, well that makes sense then. I didn't lap them because I forgot my lapping compount at the shop and engine is at home - I used some prussian blue, they came out perfect, so I did the leak test... they were perfect. I assumed he lapped them but what you said makes more sense
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
On most modern engines you can't lap valves as the hardening isn't deep enough and will wear off to softer material underneathe
As for cam chain tensioner, yes, you can use a long bar from top. Make sure to radius end so it fits into cup on bottom. Loosen adjuster with bar in place and see if it moves up any further.
As for cam chain tensioner, yes, you can use a long bar from top. Make sure to radius end so it fits into cup on bottom. Loosen adjuster with bar in place and see if it moves up any further.
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
Ran into a snag. In my haste and inexperience, I overlooked the fact that I would need the updated top tensioner hold down for the new tensioners. Amazed that NONE of the people that sell this part make it clear that if you are updating this on an old motor you NEED To source the correct holder and probably a rubber bumper too. That item should be here Wednesday and I can get to buttoning up the motor.
Frame fabrication is done, so I painted it satin black with VHT rollbar and chassis paint. I would have loved to get it powdercoated but let's not go there... only one place has a cabinet big enough to sandblast this frame and they want $400 to do the work. no!
Ran into a snag. In my haste and inexperience, I overlooked the fact that I would need the updated top tensioner hold down for the new tensioners. Amazed that NONE of the people that sell this part make it clear that if you are updating this on an old motor you NEED To source the correct holder and probably a rubber bumper too. That item should be here Wednesday and I can get to buttoning up the motor.
Frame fabrication is done, so I painted it satin black with VHT rollbar and chassis paint. I would have loved to get it powdercoated but let's not go there... only one place has a cabinet big enough to sandblast this frame and they want $400 to do the work. no!
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Yea I dont want it to be a trailer queen but I do want it to look proper. I don't like a rat bike look. As it is I am way behind on the project and dont have time to devote to painting the tank, so its gonna be looking like a rat bike for some time. I did check all my valve and piston clearances today. .060 on the intake and .070 on the exhaust. I have a feeling that's cutting it close to acceptable but it will do for me, running a 50/50 mix of pump and race gas, and the lighter pistons shouldn't stretch as much. Also did a engine mock up because I needed some morale and so I put a couple coats of "looking at it" on the engine as the doghouse guys would say
Looks good, but also noticable wear on the paint and I'm ok with that. When I show up to the bike show next Tuesday it wont look like i just built it. LOL
Looks good, but also noticable wear on the paint and I'm ok with that. When I show up to the bike show next Tuesday it wont look like i just built it. LOL
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What direction is the angle on the middle ring? Sometimes the upper and lower ring (or upper and lower lip) on an oil ring is an angle similar to the middle ring in the pic.
irk miller said:What direction is the angle on the middle ring? Sometimes the upper and lower ring (or upper and lower lip) on an oil ring is an angle similar to the middle ring in the pic.
this is what baffles me, I have 3 sets of rings, two aftermarket and 1 suzuki.. none of the rings are tapered
*EDIT:
ok it looks like according to this: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1076648/Suzuki-Gs850g.html?page=83#manual
that I have mine backwards. either the taper is so small that I cannot discern it, or the ring isn't tapered, which concerns me a little - but both rings have the "r" so I'll just face that up"
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
The taper is too small to see.
Any numbers or markings go up. Top ring is light grey on outside edge.If you've had motor running you may see a faint 'shiny' line at bottom edge of middle ring (or top if it was upside down) Just looked at pic, you have top and middle rings in wrong places The 'chrome face' of top ring is clearly visible.All Japanese manufacturers have used very similar lay out since at least mid 1960's
I only 'recently' found out the various letters used are not what I was told40+ yrs ago but are the various piston ring manufacturers (Riko is the only one I remember at present, they stamp an 'R' on top of stock size rings) You can also get S, N, A, O (and maybe others?)
Any numbers or markings go up. Top ring is light grey on outside edge.If you've had motor running you may see a faint 'shiny' line at bottom edge of middle ring (or top if it was upside down) Just looked at pic, you have top and middle rings in wrong places The 'chrome face' of top ring is clearly visible.All Japanese manufacturers have used very similar lay out since at least mid 1960's
I only 'recently' found out the various letters used are not what I was told40+ yrs ago but are the various piston ring manufacturers (Riko is the only one I remember at present, they stamp an 'R' on top of stock size rings) You can also get S, N, A, O (and maybe others?)
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
Lots of progress made tonight. Still a ways to go, wiring, startup, tuning, timing, exhaust. But I am very excited about where I'm at now.
Also, a look at the micro tacho that's mounted under the tank.
Oh, and why not the project that's waiting for "yatagarasu" to be done so she can get some attention. 82 BMW R65LS
Lots of progress made tonight. Still a ways to go, wiring, startup, tuning, timing, exhaust. But I am very excited about where I'm at now.
Also, a look at the micro tacho that's mounted under the tank.
Oh, and why not the project that's waiting for "yatagarasu" to be done so she can get some attention. 82 BMW R65LS
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Love a good Beemer.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
You'll probably get pissed off with tach in that position pretty quick. Beemer is great bike to work on. there were plenty of 'Endurance racers' around back then (although mainly 750 & 1000) so all the 'work' on what needs doing to 'CAFE' it has been done