75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Also,

Oil transfer unmodified:

20180407_111336.jpg


And Modified:
20180407_130423.jpg


Its opened up right to where the spring sits. I only found 1 damn picture of this modification on Google and it came with a footnote from pj... basically saying not to do it that way.
So this is the way I did it instead.
 
LOL, I think the only picture is one I posted few years ago. (don't remember when I actually took it even) As I was re-assembling I realised I had gone too far in one direction so warned everyone else not to make the same mistake. I do them exactly like yours now but haven't ever taken another picture, just the 'warning' ;D
I'm going to link that to a friend in Britain who's seriously thinking of swapping his Tag-Heur watch for a rebuilt CB360
Oh, washer doesn't take up all the play, the spring in the connector holds things in place
 
good to know. now people will see these images maybe. I'll have to do a full write-up on my website

I can't seam to get the oil filter lock nut lock washer to bend - I'll have to run to the other shop to grab a heavy duty pick and try it that way. (engine is at Home in the back garden, while nearly everything else is at the shop with the heavy metal working equipment. sometimes I am carting tools between the shop and home.
 
IMG_20180408_120547_635.jpg


today:

head bolt oil holes in rear of top case - drilled out to 3/32 (at first I thought I was going to remove the headstuds to make this easier to drill... then I just bought a long ass drill bit)
Oil Filter locknut lock plate tabs bent into locking position - used needle nose pliers to do the job.
clutch fitted and installed - clutch rod and mechanism on sprocket cover installed.
side covers fitted (No gaskets) to keep everything covered and instact while I do the rest of the assembly.
Somewhere along the line I lost my alternator cover. It was badly damaged from when I accidentally dropped the bike (stationary) and the shift lever decided to punch it. So I'll have to find a new one of those, no big deal.

I love that the copper gasket is peaking out there, nice contrast with the black and polished aluminium and a little hint that this motor isn't stock

One thing that was concerning me - the starter. Althought it turns freely when tested on the bench, it seams to wobble, and the drive doesn't look like it's straight. I may have to get a new one of those from eBay too, maybe a Rick's Hot Starter?



EDIT: I found these two - shims? they are very thin. I am not sure what they are for, starter maybe?
I pulled the starter apart and the head planetary gear drive part just turns TERRIBLE, the bearing spins but with resistance. So I am getting a new bearing and that should fix it.
just not sure what these shims are for :(
20180408_163705.jpg
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Looking good. I have a good used starter I took off my 360 I’ll let go cheap, PM me if you’re interested.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
If the hole is about 10mm and are about 0.25mm thick they are probably out of starter.
 
crazypj said:
If the hole is about 10mm and are about 0.25mm thick they are probably out of starter.
Click to expand...

Because of the starter not freely rotating like I thought it should, I pulled it apart - and while I thought I put it together right, I didn't install the shims. Actually went together much easier with the shims, and I also discovered that I do indeed need a new bearing - which wasn't in the rebuild kit.
it's a 6203z bearing, which is common and I can get one from an auto supply store I think
 
I don't think I've ever even heard of the 'nose' bearing failing on 360 unless starter has been underwater (even then it was off bike and in a bucket)
 
crazypj said:
I don't think I've ever even heard of the 'nose' bearing failing on 360 unless starter has been underwater (even then it was off bike and in a bucket)
Click to expand...

would explain why it's not part numbered in any diagrams

ball bearings themselvs are supposed to be "lifetime" anyway, nothing really fails on a ball bearing unless an outside force is applied (corrosion would be the most common)

But I got a bearing (same as factory, NTN 6003z) - When i took it apart it looks as though the shield had been crushed during the install... i didn't touch the bearing as the kit did not come with a replacement, so i can only assume it was taken apart and fucked up before I got it, which follows the theme of the rest of this bike.

I was hoping to not have to get a new starter, as I just spent $94 on K&N filters. HAHA
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

Indeed. He was stupid for letting his electrician friend "help" him turn it into a #caferacer he was the second owner bought it in '84.

Sent from my SM-G955U using DO THE TON mobile app
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

20180411_151244.jpg


Got a steering damper in from Ebay $9 for a suzi gsxr 07 damper... nice.
 
Make sure it's working properly, they have a nasty habit of either leaking or the internal piston 'comes loose'
Neevo (Idiot Down under CB400f) re-built his, think he gives seal size.
I've got a couple of them, needed air bled out (and topped up with suspension fluid) but otherwise OK.
Use a 5ml syringe as bleed/fill hole is only 3mm.
 
Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build

crazypj said:
Make sure it's working properly, they have a nasty habit of either leaking or the internal piston 'comes loose'
Neevo (Idiot Down under CB400f) re-built his, think he gives seal size.
I've got a couple of them, needed air bled out (and topped up with suspension fluid) but otherwise OK.
Use a 5ml syringe as bleed/fill hole is only 3mm.
Click to expand...
It seems to be working great, no bubbly sounds from it and very smooth, also no leaks. However. I do plan to change the fluid, using a 5w fork oil from what I have read that is the proper stuff.
 
Fork oil can 'break down' too fast, you need rear shock fluid.
Fork doesn't get as hot as rear damper (more surface area less movement except in MX or maybe racing) so viscosity doesn't change as much
It's the lower change in viscosity due to heat that makes the 'suspension fluid' way more expensive ($30~$40 liter instead of $10~$15 liter)
I forget details, haven't looked it up since 2012 or so.
You can look up viscosity index and compare it to viscosity
 
crazypj said:
Fork oil can 'break down' too fast, you need rear shock fluid.
Fork doesn't get as hot as rear damper (more surface area less movement except in MX or maybe racing) so viscosity doesn't change as much
It's the lower change in viscosity due to heat that makes the 'suspension fluid' way more expensive ($30~$40 liter instead of $10~$15 liter)
I forget details, haven't looked it up since 2012 or so.
You can look up viscosity index and compare it to viscosity
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. Will get some of the proper stuff for it. Since I am missing my April 18th deadline I have until May 16th for the next bike meet - i have a little time to make this right.

I bought some Redline 5w Suspension Fluid - also some 10w, just in case I don't know what I am doing (which is likely)
 
Redline is good stuff, I have a chart somewhere of 'top 100'
Almost all viscosities are in top 25, thinner 'thins' less. I think the 20w was at 25~30 on chart?
It needs to get pretty hot to have noticeable loss of viscosity 8)
I have been using Silkolene Pro Suspension Fluid but it's pretty expensive now so will probably switch
 
VideoCapture_20180414-194441.jpg


some progress: all the bolts and hardware have been cleaned of grease and grime, no one wants to see that so I didn't take any pics.
I did manage to snap this from the video I am making about the bike build... tapping the grease fitting for the caliper arm

excuse the messy work bench - we have 4 projects going ('82 R650LS, this bike, '81 GS250, and an XL650)
 
OK got some crap done today I am pretty happy about the results so be nice :)


first thing was to fabricate a mount for the master cylinder under the tank. This was a must for me, mostly because I gave my stock master cylinder away to a user on here so they could finish their project, and also because I wanted nice clean bars, so no master up top for me!

step 1:
20180417_095742.jpg


step 2: (welded it) it bolts to the original coil mounting bolts - super excited about that, it means the thing can be easily removed and serviced
20180417_101001.jpg


and MOUNTED: (ps, not gonna use that hardware, already got proper mounting hardware for it
20180417_101107.jpg



the next thing I did was to make mounts for both the ignition coils as well as the steering damper
20180417_164905.jpg

20180417_164949.jpg

20180417_144144.jpg


and I also finished drilling the rotor. I like the way it looks - almost as if all the holes get smaller as they go outward, but they don't!
20180417_180321.jpg




lots more to do tomorrow - I want to tackle the shock mounting studs and maybe a few other things if I get motivated
 
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