82 GS450t
- Thread starter Poopwink
- Start date
jeffasaurus2
Active Member
Nah, if you're still using the stock flasher relay for the 450 then it won't work with those smaller signals. The one that came with the 450 is dependent on the load drawn through them in order to flash, if you go to Auto-Zone, Checkers, NAPA, whatever they should have a generic three-prong no-load flasher relay for less than $10. That's what you need.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
Got the rear signals and tail light working and mounted! Not sure if I'm going to keep the tail light here or move it a little lower and further under the seat. Overall pretty happy with how it worked out. I think it's a considerable improvement over the enormous stock set up and was pretty cheap.
I tried my stock flasher relay with the motor on/off, and also switched over a stock relay from an '81 CM400 but didn't get any blinks. Got a no load/electronic one (I guess those old stock relays were load/thermal) for $9 from the local auto parts place. Thanks again, Jeff.
I've been trying to work in sections, so now I'm really diving into cleanup down below and around the seat pan. All kinds of dead beetles, spider egg sacs, etc...
I've gotten her some fresh air and fired her up a few times now. Starts every try, but idles a little rough. I'm waiting on a front wheel spacer that disappeared before I can start riding her around. Installed new brake pads last night. Slow but steady progress!
jeffasaurus2
Active Member
No problem, The bikes looking awesome!
Couple of curiosities, Did you rework that clutch cable around the steering head? Did it help with the adjustments in play?
Also, I'd love to see a video of the chopped exhaust if you're able. I've wanted to just cut mine right at the mufflers for a while but never committed.
Couple of curiosities, Did you rework that clutch cable around the steering head? Did it help with the adjustments in play?
Also, I'd love to see a video of the chopped exhaust if you're able. I've wanted to just cut mine right at the mufflers for a while but never committed.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
For the clutch cable, I ended up taking a different route under the tank, and now it swings fairly wide below the right side clip-on (to the right of the steering assembly, as recommended) before looping over to the actual perch/lever. The action is much smoother and it has a steadier pull than before.
I've got some video of the exhaust but the mic on my phone doesn't do it justice at all. I'll see if I can borrow a decent camera of some sort from work and try and post a video. It's loud as hell. I'm still on the fence about whether I should extend the pipes/add mufflers. I like the look of those 12" shorties that DCC sells...I think I'll wait til I can ride it to make that call.
I've got some video of the exhaust but the mic on my phone doesn't do it justice at all. I'll see if I can borrow a decent camera of some sort from work and try and post a video. It's loud as hell. I'm still on the fence about whether I should extend the pipes/add mufflers. I like the look of those 12" shorties that DCC sells...I think I'll wait til I can ride it to make that call.
jeffasaurus2
Active Member
I'll have to move mine around a bit then, see what happens.
I'd love to see a video of it. I'd been looking at the 12" shorties from DCC as well, but wondered if just cutting it (the free route) would be worth it. I wouldn't mind louder, I'd love louder, but not deafening.
Any plans for a different seat?
I'd love to see a video of it. I'd been looking at the 12" shorties from DCC as well, but wondered if just cutting it (the free route) would be worth it. I wouldn't mind louder, I'd love louder, but not deafening.
Any plans for a different seat?
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
My mufflers were all kinds of pitted, corroded, and rusted through in some spots. Didn't seem like I could do much to salvage 'em so I just chopped 'em off.
I'm still working on getting a video with decent sound quality. I feel like I need to take it around the block a few times to really determine if it's too loud or not.
Right now I'm focused on getting it running properly, so I'm going to stick with the original 2-up seat. In a few months I'll probably start up with a cafe/bratstyle seat. This is my first bike so I'm just sweating to start riding the damn thing!
I'm still working on getting a video with decent sound quality. I feel like I need to take it around the block a few times to really determine if it's too loud or not.
Right now I'm focused on getting it running properly, so I'm going to stick with the original 2-up seat. In a few months I'll probably start up with a cafe/bratstyle seat. This is my first bike so I'm just sweating to start riding the damn thing!
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
So in between work and getting sick, I've been working on the bike. Got the seat mounted and the rear signals fitted. The tail/brake light needs a more secure setup than I currently have, though.
I've ridden it up and down the block now (woohoo!) and there's some kind of issue with the throttle. The actual throttle tube doesn't stick, but there are random moments where it starts revving higher and higher, and I had to cut the power. There wasn't much fuel in the tank, which can sometimes cause weird hiccups, so I decided to refuel and continue.
Once it had a full tank, as soon as I started it, the engine revved to 28k, then 30k, then 33k, then 36k, etc...it just kept gunning it, releasing, gunning it, releasing.
It had been idling a little high, so I ended up pulling the tank to see if I could notice anything catching/rubbing on the throttle cable, idle set screw, or carbs themselves. When pulling the tank, hardly any fuel leaked out...because my petcock is pretty jacked. I have to use a wrench to turn it. It looks like the fuel valve wasn't letting any gasoline into the carbs, so the bike was just running on whatever had been left in the line. My throttle cable was also set way too tight--the idle set screw didn't even touch the little assembly, so every time I tried to adjust my idle, it didn't do shit.
I think that because the throttle was set too high, it never really returned to the base idle. Not exactly sure where the intense-as-fuck revving came from?
I guess these are just some of the little things you have to figure out when it's your first build. I'm going to replace my shitty, short fuel line and then put the tank back on. I've adjusted the throttle so that the idle screw actually functions, too. Hopefully this will solve the ridiculous revving issue. Riding the bike without sudden, unplanned and unstoppable bouts of acceleration is enough for me.
I've ridden it up and down the block now (woohoo!) and there's some kind of issue with the throttle. The actual throttle tube doesn't stick, but there are random moments where it starts revving higher and higher, and I had to cut the power. There wasn't much fuel in the tank, which can sometimes cause weird hiccups, so I decided to refuel and continue.
Once it had a full tank, as soon as I started it, the engine revved to 28k, then 30k, then 33k, then 36k, etc...it just kept gunning it, releasing, gunning it, releasing.
It had been idling a little high, so I ended up pulling the tank to see if I could notice anything catching/rubbing on the throttle cable, idle set screw, or carbs themselves. When pulling the tank, hardly any fuel leaked out...because my petcock is pretty jacked. I have to use a wrench to turn it. It looks like the fuel valve wasn't letting any gasoline into the carbs, so the bike was just running on whatever had been left in the line. My throttle cable was also set way too tight--the idle set screw didn't even touch the little assembly, so every time I tried to adjust my idle, it didn't do shit.
I think that because the throttle was set too high, it never really returned to the base idle. Not exactly sure where the intense-as-fuck revving came from?
I guess these are just some of the little things you have to figure out when it's your first build. I'm going to replace my shitty, short fuel line and then put the tank back on. I've adjusted the throttle so that the idle screw actually functions, too. Hopefully this will solve the ridiculous revving issue. Riding the bike without sudden, unplanned and unstoppable bouts of acceleration is enough for me.
jeffasaurus2
Active Member
I'm sure if you've posted this at gsresources you'll get every guy on there saying this but: the high revving is either an air leak, most likely at the boots from carb to cyllinder, there's an o-ring in each boot that needs to be replaced.
Or, if you're certain there is no air leak you simply need to sync the carbs using a vacuum manometer. I had the same high rev issue and the sync fixed it right up. If you don't have access to or don't want to spend the $100 for a pro. manometer there are plenty of great diy's for less than $10, ill find the link for the one I used later today.
If you've still got the stock petcock its vacuum actuated so its only going to let fuel flow when the engine is running in the on possition, try turning it to prime and see if fuel flows freely, if not you may consider a rebuild kit or replacement.
Or, if you're certain there is no air leak you simply need to sync the carbs using a vacuum manometer. I had the same high rev issue and the sync fixed it right up. If you don't have access to or don't want to spend the $100 for a pro. manometer there are plenty of great diy's for less than $10, ill find the link for the one I used later today.
If you've still got the stock petcock its vacuum actuated so its only going to let fuel flow when the engine is running in the on possition, try turning it to prime and see if fuel flows freely, if not you may consider a rebuild kit or replacement.
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Sounds like you found the issue if the throttle cable was adjusted too tight and not letting the linkage hit the idle speed adjustment screw. Whenever I set one up I loosen the adjustment screw all the way out and make sure the cables are adjusted to allow the butterflies close completely.
Since you said you need to turn the petcock witha wrench it doesn't sound like the POS factory vacuum operated unit that I have. But if you do, then jeffasaurus2 is right, they only flow fuel then the engine is running (maybe cranking)... and =1 to his comments on a vacuum leak causuing a lean condition that can cause it to idle fast. As far as the sync goes, Jeff was lucky, that usually is only for ballancing a already good opperating fuel system.
Since you said you need to turn the petcock witha wrench it doesn't sound like the POS factory vacuum operated unit that I have. But if you do, then jeffasaurus2 is right, they only flow fuel then the engine is running (maybe cranking)... and =1 to his comments on a vacuum leak causuing a lean condition that can cause it to idle fast. As far as the sync goes, Jeff was lucky, that usually is only for ballancing a already good opperating fuel system.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
Removed and checked the boots and they seem fine. No obvious cracking or splitting, I don't think there's an air leak.
Pretty sure my POS petcock is the POS, vacuum-operated stock one.
It could be that the idle screw was the only problem...but while I have the tank and carbs off, I figured I might as well slow myself down and try to do the sync.
Gonna try to set up a DIY manometer this evening. I commuted by bicycle today, and the auto/hardware stores close by 6:00 pm, so who knows if I'll have enough time to grab everything I'll need. Do you guys know off-hand what diameter tubing I'll need for those Mikuni carbs?
Pretty sure my POS petcock is the POS, vacuum-operated stock one.
It could be that the idle screw was the only problem...but while I have the tank and carbs off, I figured I might as well slow myself down and try to do the sync.
Gonna try to set up a DIY manometer this evening. I commuted by bicycle today, and the auto/hardware stores close by 6:00 pm, so who knows if I'll have enough time to grab everything I'll need. Do you guys know off-hand what diameter tubing I'll need for those Mikuni carbs?
jeffasaurus2
Active Member
Did you check the orings within those boots? Between the cyllinder and the boot is an oring. Mine were both dried out and crumbled when I removed them.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
These are my boots. They're definitely old but I don't know if they're so far gone that they need to be replaced/are causing the problem.
One of the issues where I live is that getting parts/equipment is ridiculously difficult. There are a few small hardware/auto stores, none of which are particularly good at what they do. Selection is small at best and they're all hesitant to order anything for me unless I'd like a massive bulk order for myself. ???
Didn't get the manometer stuff yesterday and will likely not get it today. I have to drive 14 miles to another few stores that may or may not have what I need.
jeffasaurus2
Active Member
Those are the O-rings, from the looks of it they -need- to be replaced, they'll cause the air leak plaguing you. You can't plop in any old O-ring though, they'll burn right up. http://cycleorings.com/450.html This guy is pretty quick and almost always has in stock O-rings, the only bummer is it doesnt seem to allow you to purchase only the intake boot O-rings. I've dealt with him before and I'm sure you sent him an email he'd be more than happy to sell you only the Intake o-rings
Parts were a pain in the neck for me too, I ordered from G&S suzuki's site and it usually took ten or so days to reach me, I have yet to find a less expensive source for stock parts though.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
I threw it all back together to see if I could use a vacuum gauge that my cousin conveniently forgot to tell me he had...now the petcock won't function at all.
It won't feed fuel into the carbs. I disassembled it and looked for buildup/corrosion and didn't see anything that I was able to start the bike a handful of times because there was still a bit of gasoline in the carburetors, and that should at least start pulling fuel, right? There was nothing coming down the line, so the idle kept dying.
Obviously I'll have to work this out before I can adjust the idle, sync the carbs, etc.
It won't feed fuel into the carbs. I disassembled it and looked for buildup/corrosion and didn't see anything that I was able to start the bike a handful of times because there was still a bit of gasoline in the carburetors, and that should at least start pulling fuel, right? There was nothing coming down the line, so the idle kept dying.
Obviously I'll have to work this out before I can adjust the idle, sync the carbs, etc.
Hoosier Daddy
Earache my eye...
Get those old flattened o-rings replaced.
Then if the petcock is the vacuum type it should have a prime position labeled "PRI". My POS 81 petcock was even made without a lever (!) but it still has a place to use a small flat screw driver to turn to "PRI" and that bypasses the vacuum diaphram function and should let fuel flow to your carbs without vacuum to prime the system after repairs.
Then if the petcock is the vacuum type it should have a prime position labeled "PRI". My POS 81 petcock was even made without a lever (!) but it still has a place to use a small flat screw driver to turn to "PRI" and that bypasses the vacuum diaphram function and should let fuel flow to your carbs without vacuum to prime the system after repairs.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
Hoosier Daddy said:
It's a vacuum-type petcock. No doubts there.
Regardless of what setting I've selected (prime, full/on, reserve), and regardless of whether the engine is running or not, there is no fuel passes beyond the petcock into the carbs.
I'm going to dismantle the petcock again after work and see if I somehow missed something, although I didn't see any corrosion or buildup last time.
Poopwink
never take yourself too seriously
Re: 82 GS450t UPDATE - Neighbor drove into bike, knocked it over - Q's
So a lot has gone down in the past weeks. She's running!
Did a clumsy carb sync that is working until I get some adapters so I can connect my homemade manometer. That's stopped the bouncing idle issue. Got the idle dialed and boy is she fun to ride. First took her out last Wednesday and have been going out as much as I can.
BUT LAST NIGHT
my moron of a neighbor (whose husband rides the ugliest HD-wannabe Virago, complete with leather tassels and flip-flops when he rides, and who rides a scooter herself) backed into my bike with their truck. It was knocked over and luckily they manned up and left a note. I've just gotten back from work and started looking at it (I had no time this morning before leaving for work). From what I can see, the throttle tube, side cover, rear turn signal, front and rear brake levers, and right header have all been damaged. I think the front forks have lost fluid--it sits fine but if you roll the bike and squeeze the brake, it sinks wayyy down on the forks.
Anything else to look for? What should I keep in mind? I have never had this happen before, so I want to make sure I don't get screwed. Any and all help would be appreciated.
So a lot has gone down in the past weeks. She's running!
Did a clumsy carb sync that is working until I get some adapters so I can connect my homemade manometer. That's stopped the bouncing idle issue. Got the idle dialed and boy is she fun to ride. First took her out last Wednesday and have been going out as much as I can.
BUT LAST NIGHT
my moron of a neighbor (whose husband rides the ugliest HD-wannabe Virago, complete with leather tassels and flip-flops when he rides, and who rides a scooter herself) backed into my bike with their truck. It was knocked over and luckily they manned up and left a note. I've just gotten back from work and started looking at it (I had no time this morning before leaving for work). From what I can see, the throttle tube, side cover, rear turn signal, front and rear brake levers, and right header have all been damaged. I think the front forks have lost fluid--it sits fine but if you roll the bike and squeeze the brake, it sinks wayyy down on the forks.
Anything else to look for? What should I keep in mind? I have never had this happen before, so I want to make sure I don't get screwed. Any and all help would be appreciated.
Re: 82 GS450t UPDATE - Neighbor drove into bike, knocked it over - Q's
First of all - commiserations. This is a crappy thing to happen.
Second - your forks may be bent. Loss of fluid should not impede the fork travel, but a bent fork or twisted clamps may do.
Poopwink said:
First of all - commiserations. This is a crappy thing to happen.
Second - your forks may be bent. Loss of fluid should not impede the fork travel, but a bent fork or twisted clamps may do.