About to torn the motor open

B7 will be better for testing, when you get it running right switch to B8
Are both float levels set the same?
Something is causing rich mixture one side, could be ignition?
 
Yup i double check the bowls when i drill the needle jets, im gonna check the time again with another strobe gun to see if maybe mine is out of whack or something,

If any of this things dpesnt work my next move would be to open the motor and check the valves or something, the vlaves themself are from a 68 in a 72 head but the fitted fine and were lapped by a machine shop i dunno if this might be an issue
 
Make sure you check both sides, it could show missfire if points, coil or condenser has a problem
 
The last time i got the left side spot on but the rh side was a bit retarded, i have the pamco ignition and i cannot get it spot on in the rh side but its almost spot on, however the right side is the leanest one, i already talked to pete to see if he have a solution

Even if the rh side is less than a degree out it should be soo rich right?
 
It's not necessarily "lean" or "rich". It's plug temperatures, and they are changed by timing as well as jetting. Could even be one filter partially obscuring an air jet and the other side not obscured.

Do you have access to a dyno for a quick baseline run? I'd do a regular roll on run and then a 1/4 throttle run, 1/2 throttle and 3/4 throttle to see the air: fuel charts.

Was the problem there with VM30 s as well as with the 28s.
 
I wish i had a dyno close by, but the nearest one is like 2 hours away and i have no way to get the bike there, with the vm30 the same exact thing but a bit worst!


With the vm30 i had:
20 pilot
159 p0
6f5 needle
135 main
3.0 slide
 
Are you checking timing at full advance?
Make sure the timing mark is on or between the l l marks on rotor at 3,000 rpm and higher
 
When you built it, did you replace the valve guide seals (assuming it has them)? That would potentially burn oil but that should be blue smoke.
 
no i dint replace the valve guide seals, but i did had the valve lapped, they looked straight and went in smooth and the springs were within spec, but i dint replace the guides or seals, but the thing is that like you said the smoke is not bue, mostly whitish and greyish/black when i accelerate ill get a vid soon,

i know it wont be blue blue smoke, white with some light blue right? im gonna check toning and come back with a vid. because honestly to me is all white gry and black
 
A quick update, it turned out that my valve guides were actually bad, i open the engine and there was play in the valves so i sent my head to a guy on ebay called schumman and he is replacing the guides with bronze one that have seals, he will also be cutting the seats, a complete head job. It also turned out that there was a problem with the pamco pete ignitions, pete took it under warranty (very awesome guy) and now im waiting for viets ignition to arrive. So in other words a complete upper engine rebuild, again!


Now that the engine is open, i dunno if this was an issue but im using the tsubaki timing chain with the stock tensioner using the sprokets from the guy in polland, is that ok or would that chain only wirk with the KA slipper tensionner
 
Tsubaki chain and nylon rollers should be more efficient then the Ka tensioner,
It's what I would use if I was still doing 350's
 
awesome, glad i dint screw that up LOL, anyway ill soon be putting everything back together, i was planing on using copper washer with spring washer on top to keep the engine top nuts from coming off, is that ok to use? or the spring washers are not recommended?
 
Just use the copper washers, spring washers are not a good idea on cylinder head nuts.
Check torque after a couple of heating/cooling cycles
 
ok so i have my CL350 finally running good, idling properly and synced with no smoke at all, i have a pair of VM28's,

currently i have:

15 pilot jets,
130 mains
175 -P4 needle jet
5F21 needle (in the second from the top)
Air jet removed
air screw 2 1/4 out

its feels good but when i check the plug it was very sooty black but not wet after a ride around the block, and it smoke heavy black only at 1200 rpm, once i accelerated it stopped smoking but smokes again at idle speed, also the carbs got really cold with condensation
 
Drill a 1.5~2mm hole through the 'hood' on 'needle jet' and re-check float level, it may be too low
 
The 175 is the bleed type... still need to drill a hole for that one?

Also... air jet removed?
 
169 series needle jets are really designed for a two stroke and tend to get much richer than a four stroke Bleed type. With Primary needle jets, they tend to be too rich as revs rise. Changing air jets changes the fuel slope slightly and will lean it out a little at higher revs.

Four strokes work better with Bleed type needle jets, and the correct ones for those carbs are 175s. A 175 P-4 should be a good starting point with those needles.

Drilling the N/J as PJ suggested is one way to try to get a Primary type jet to act more like a Bleed type, but fuel atomization is typically still poor. Your new 175s should be pretty good. You may have to fit air jets to fine tune the fuel curve though.
 
yea i switch to the bleed type to see if it helps, but nothing still to rich and honestly i dunno why, i got my head back professionally done, seats cutted, new valve guides, same with the cylinders i sent them via mail to guy that does vintange bikes, i got the ignition dial in good and tensioner, but no matter what i do it still rich, i found a dyno that is about 2 and half hours away from where i live, if i find a pick up truck ill take it next week,

yea i took out the air jets, since they were .5 , it would have been way richer i belive
 
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