Air conditioner clutch?

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
OK, something I know very little about. ::)
Is AC clutch metal to metal or is there a friction plate riveted/bonded/loose on one side?
I have pulley and rotor fitted, there is about 1/4" gap between 'plates'
 
On most mobile applications they are metal to metal. There should only be 15 to 20 thousandths air gap (and some) are less. A quarter is too much. What is the compressor on?
 
88 Cadillac 4.6
Wife thought it would be a good idea for her daughter to have something big and solid to crash (plus, it was real cheap ::))
Owned by little old lady who only drove it to church on Sunday (really, that's what the guys selling told me when they delivered it, AFTER she bought it :o)
Looks like shaft was rusty or something?
I got it down to minimal gap, (didn't have a measurement so took it down to 'touch' then used puller to get clearance)
clutch works and doesn't make sparks or anything but compressor is 'knocking'?
Guess I'm going to be 'into' automotive AC next ::)

Thanks for reply

PJ
 
sounds like the compressor may be shot. There should be shims under the end plate to set the air gap, too. It is set so close so the springs of the end plate only have to flex a minimum amount to engage the clutch. You should be able to tightene the retaininig nut fully.

It sounds like your compressor may be bad. Check the bearing in the belt pully to make sure it is not going bad. Do you have any idea what the operating pressures are? The low side (suction, big hose, small test port) should be between 10-30 PSI, depending upon the temperature and humidity, and the high side (discharge, small hose, big test port)should be in the neighborhood of ambient air temp plus 100 degrees. This is with the clutch engaged.

Let me know if you need further help. I do a lot of mobile A/C, although not on cars so much.
 
Whoop! Just saw it was an 88. Is it still R-12 Freon, or has it been converted to R-134A? If it is R-12, it will have the same size test ports and they will not be quick couple. They will actually thread on. Also, R-12 and R-134 oils are not necessarily compatible. Ester oil is compatible with both systems if you need to retrofit to R-134. There are kits available for doing this.


ANyway, just a side note...
 
Hi t71ford,
I changed out the belt pulley because bearing had disintegrated, clutch moved and destroyed itself on inner wheel well,(locked pulley up)
That took out the drive belt to water pump and 'ancillary components'
she drove it about 2miles home with lots of flashing lights (on dash :D)
it was working fine when she bought it, probably never should have turned AC off?
It's drivable so she's 'out and about' with windows wound down ::)
There were no shims, in fact it looks like the nut holding pulley on had been missing for some time (I'm guessing they knew there was a problem and didn't want expense of fixing it)
I'll check test ports although I'm pretty sure there is a quick disconnect up near the dryer/accumulator (looks like a mini airline fitting?)
Thanks again

PJ
 
The mini airline fitting quick coupling is for R-134A. This is a current refrigerant that can be bought at any auto parts store or even Wal-mart, I think. The service equipment is inexpensive as well. If the compressor shaft turns freely, you should be able to buy just a clutch and install it with common tools. (You usually need a puller to remove the inner bearing from the compressor hub). It should all be possible withoug discharging the system, soy you shouldn't have to worry about refrigerant. Really not a bad repair, either.
 
Back
Top Bottom