Air Filter Mounting

Jordan918

Been Around the Block
I mounted my battery box before I had my carbs and filters in place and now they are colliding. I'm trying to find filters with less depth in order to give my box more space. What about getting some type of angled intake boot to angle the filters out away from the battery box?
a5asyzan.jpg
 
both are an option but thinner filters wont have the same air flow unless they are a bigger circumference and finding angled filters might still not clear the battery box, you could also move the box :)
heres some ideas, but they are designed for smaller engines 50cc to 125cc

small filter-
http://www.ooracing.com/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=232
angled filter
http://www.ooracing.com/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=1647
 
Moving the box back even the smallest degree worries me because of tire rub, so that's not really an option. I think you're right about the angled filters. They would have to be a pretty sharp angle to clear.
 
I used the Uni Filters with the angled connectors. the rub the battery box and the frame, but because they are flexible, they still go on. They are a little flattened on one side, but they are large enough that they don't really affect air flow mounted that way...
 

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mydlyfkryzis said:
I used the Uni Filters with the angled connectors. the rub the battery box and the frame, but because they are flexible, they still go on. They are a little flattened on one side, but they are large enough that they don't really affect air flow mounted that way...

index.php

What a crazy shifter pedal! And show a photo of the other side, i want to see how the cooler has been connected..
Sorry for the hijack ;)
 
See my build. Lots of pics. The shifter keeps my shoe off the exhaust. Was a jcwhitney product in the early 80's.

Look up jcwhitney.com, you can see what they have today. Back then was different owners and no Internet. Everything was catalog.


Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
 
Thanks for the tips and the history lesson. Life before the Internet seems like a blur. If anyone knows where I can find a way to divert my existing pods outward, I'd like to try that first.
 
Is there any reason why I couldn't just use these?
ugahu6ut.jpg


http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-carburetor-parts-machine-finished-honda-cb350-cb360-cb450-cb500t-shorty-velocity-stacks-sd-cb3450-mos-shrt.html
 
Dirt in the engine and more difficult tuning. You could use those and put a UNI - type oiled foam over the outside to keep dirt out. Not sure what the short V-Stack will be like for tuning. I wouldn't run just screens if you ride anywhere there is dust and dirt on the roads. May be fine for track conditions. I think UNI make a V-Stack cover? I know I have seen them, look like a mushroom top. Those stacks and a cover might solve your issue.


Edit, you could just cut down regular Uni filters and put them over with rubber bands to seal them, the you could pull them to show off the stacks when parked, put them back for riding.
 
Getting the jetting right is painful with them.

They only keep small rocks and pebbles out of the engine.

The CV carbs do not like short stacks.

But if it only looks, they look great.

A lot of people here are more focused on the presentation then the operation. I am actually going to go back to stock airboxes so I run better. IU am using the Uni pods until I repair the broken tabs for the stock airboxes.

I am more of a function over form guy. I want my bike to be as close to a reliable rider as possible. I don't want to mess to much with rejetting, retiming, etc. Stock gives reliable performance.

While many people want extra performance, I don't care to work hard for the 1 or 2 HP the mods give. For instance, the velocity stacks will increase high RPM performance, but sacrifice low RPM torque and HP. Therefore, the bike becomes somewhat less drive-able in a normal manner. Not worth it to me.

I had a friend with a 68 Chevy Nova, 327CID, about 365 HP. Had a race cam in it. Idled at 2300 RPM. You could barely drive it around. He liked it, but it was painful to get around in traffic, frequently stalled and bucked. Worked at the drag strip for 14 seconds, but everywhere else it was pretty much un-driveable. Be he was happy with it...Me, I would of sacrified 60HP and made something quick, but easy to drive.

The Uni pods are as close as you can get and keep the stock jetting for the most part. ?If you go to emgo pods, which are more restrictive than a stock air cleaner, or something on that order, you will be spending some time rejetting and tuning the carbs. But the motor will look nice.

If you really want pods, consider the K&N pods and then contact CrazyPJ on this site. He can get the carbs reworked to work close to, if not right on with those pods. He works on both fuel jets and air jets and gets the carbs right for the application. Not the cheapest way to go,, but your bike will run much better for the effort.
 
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