Battery deleted
- Thread starter Gecko49
- Start date
lurkmaster2000
Active Member
Turn the bike on, then pull out wires until it stops working, then reattach the last wire... booyah
mark13018
"In the age of information, ignorance is a choice
Depends on how many other things you want to keep. You dont really have to have a lot of the wires but you still need to have some... I have ran a bike off of 2 capacitors from radio shack for about 5 bucks and no battery... I think dtt member sonier is making custom wire harnesses still and he is really good with electrical stuff. He would be a good resource to interrogate about electrical questions.. I just finished my own wire harness and left a couple other things I didn't really have to like turn signals, dash lights (green/yellow), front brake light wiring, etc. But those are all things I wanted to keep and will still look very clean when I'm done... Some people only run capacitors, which do work, but I like the reliability of a battery over those.
Bert Jan
Holy Modification Batman
yup, what mark said. There are a lot of wiring diagrams on here, in this very part of the site. Just go a couple treads down and you'll find them. Lurkmaster is obviously not right, (funny though..) because that way you will damage parts you might want to keep in the long run.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=49074.0
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=48839.0
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=19588.0
Some random topics. You can type 'cb350 simplified wiring' in google and the searcg results will track back to DTT most of the times. Hondatwins.net is a good resource for diagrams also.
Good luck. If you tell us what you want and do not want, i can draw you a diagram and you can go from there.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=49074.0
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=48839.0
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=19588.0
Some random topics. You can type 'cb350 simplified wiring' in google and the searcg results will track back to DTT most of the times. Hondatwins.net is a good resource for diagrams also.
Good luck. If you tell us what you want and do not want, i can draw you a diagram and you can go from there.
Slantyface
Been Around the Block
I was wondering the same thing. I'm trying to figure out a way right now to "relocate" my battery...
I think people put them under the seat most of the time?
I think people put them under the seat most of the time?
mark13018
"In the age of information, ignorance is a choice
Yup. Under the seat hump for cafes and on/near the swing arm on most other styles of bike where you want it "hidden" ie: brat, tracker, bobber, etc... Check out some build threads and use the search function and you will get some really good ideas.
mark13018
"In the age of information, ignorance is a choice
One thing to remember is thats not how it was designed but how many things do we do that are as designed by the original engineers? Hardly anything, that's why we're all here on this forum. To help each other with what has worked for them in the past or are currently doing. Could you imagine how much further we'd be with this stuff if they had internet and forums in the 60's when cafe racers were at their prime? nothing really uses capacitors well and it should be an option reserved to very minimal electronics and will not work with electric start... I ran them on a cb360 for awhile and it worked as it should.
Custom wiring harnesses made and sold by yours truly:
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=47580.0
As for the battery eliminator topic, the short answer is, "No. You can't do it with a CB350".
Longer answer is, "Probably not, but you can make some changes that will increase your chances of pulling it off".
The problem with the Honda 350 and 360 twins is that they don't produce enough wattage to run all that's needed. They came that way from the factory. Break even point comes in at 3000 or 4000 RPM depending on the strength of your charging system.
If you really want to ditch the battery and go with a battery eliminator (which is basically a large capacitor), you need to reduce the amount of power your bike uses and/or increase the power output of the charging system.
The first is much easier, but the second is also worth considering.
To reduce the wattage requirements, your best bet is to pull as many lights as possible. LED replacements are also an option assuming you need/want to keep some of the lights. Access to electronic ignitions that can decrease your dwell also work, as does higher resistance coils. Though I advocate the change to a new regulator/rectifier as well, I have no evidence that it will decrease your wattage consumption. All wires should be examined and cleaned of corrosion and dirt.
To increase your power production, you have a few choices. Most common is to pick up an aftermarket stator such as the one available from Rick's Motorsport. Many alternator specialist shops can also rewind your existing stator (more coils in the stator means more power) as an upgrade. If you wanna get a little crazier, you can try something like this: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=38872.msg500741#msg500741
After each change, you should test to see if you've hit your goal. This is simply done by hooking up a multimeter to your battery with the bike turned off and with the battery sitting (without being charged or having the bike run) for 24 hours. Your reading should be somewhere around 12.5V. Now start the bike with the kick starter are let the bike idle until warm; about five minutes or so. Measure again. If you're at 13V or better, pull the battery and stick an eliminator in there; you're good to go.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=47580.0
As for the battery eliminator topic, the short answer is, "No. You can't do it with a CB350".
Longer answer is, "Probably not, but you can make some changes that will increase your chances of pulling it off".
The problem with the Honda 350 and 360 twins is that they don't produce enough wattage to run all that's needed. They came that way from the factory. Break even point comes in at 3000 or 4000 RPM depending on the strength of your charging system.
If you really want to ditch the battery and go with a battery eliminator (which is basically a large capacitor), you need to reduce the amount of power your bike uses and/or increase the power output of the charging system.
The first is much easier, but the second is also worth considering.
To reduce the wattage requirements, your best bet is to pull as many lights as possible. LED replacements are also an option assuming you need/want to keep some of the lights. Access to electronic ignitions that can decrease your dwell also work, as does higher resistance coils. Though I advocate the change to a new regulator/rectifier as well, I have no evidence that it will decrease your wattage consumption. All wires should be examined and cleaned of corrosion and dirt.
To increase your power production, you have a few choices. Most common is to pick up an aftermarket stator such as the one available from Rick's Motorsport. Many alternator specialist shops can also rewind your existing stator (more coils in the stator means more power) as an upgrade. If you wanna get a little crazier, you can try something like this: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=38872.msg500741#msg500741
After each change, you should test to see if you've hit your goal. This is simply done by hooking up a multimeter to your battery with the bike turned off and with the battery sitting (without being charged or having the bike run) for 24 hours. Your reading should be somewhere around 12.5V. Now start the bike with the kick starter are let the bike idle until warm; about five minutes or so. Measure again. If you're at 13V or better, pull the battery and stick an eliminator in there; you're good to go.
Slantyface
Been Around the Block
Some of the lithium batteries are pretty small and can be put on their side. Ballistic, Odyssey, and my personal favorite Shorai, are all decent brands. Unfortunately they cost about three times as much as a normal battery. My game plan was to put the battery under the seat, strip away any excess electronics, and tuck it all away under the cowl. Of course easier said than done.
Slantyface
Been Around the Block
When you say under 10V do you mean a constant and consistent voltage of 10V. What if it drops to 10V under load and takes a bit to build back up? I'll put a volt meter on it and it'll tell me 13.5V. Cause there's this remote possibility I might have run mine down while attempting to start a non operational bike...
looks like I might have to check into that warranty sooner than I thought...
Here's to hoping I didn't just ruin a $169 battery...
looks like I might have to check into that warranty sooner than I thought...
Here's to hoping I didn't just ruin a $169 battery...
)