Bike running, Now the clutch wont work

S

Smoking Star

Been Around the Block
I can shift the bike into 1st N and 2nd, but nothing after that. ( idk if thats how it works when the bike is not moving, just stating what it will do) but when I put it into first and hold the clutch in and press the starter the bike jerks forward. I tightened the cable as much as it can go on ither end, but no dice on it disengaging the the motor. I dont know what to do next ( like always) Help!
 
try adjusting the clutch as per the manual. as I recall the adjuster at the cases is a left hand thread - I "tightened" all the way and had a similar problem.
 
i doubt you'll be able to get to third with a bike standing still, try turning the rear wheel with the clutch out, that'll move the gears enough to engage higher gears
 
I think i need a whole new clutch. I removed the clutch cable and started playing around where it mounted and found out that when you squeeze the cable it pushes a metal rod through the clutch plates. I think i should have been able to move somthing on the other side, like the clutch plate that has the springs on it. I soaked all the screws last night as to keep stripping to a minimum ( where can i replace these, and do i have any other options ) im going to check out whats going on with this stupid clutch and hopfully get it resolved today. anything I should know before busting it open?
 
the side where the clutch cable attaches or the the other side? because their is a disk like think that pushes against the rod on the cable side.
 
New Gaskets! Hahaha What are you made of money? ( or am I extremely cheap?)

In truth I couldn't keep a fleet of vintage wrecks running if I always went for the "buy new" option. I'm sure if I only had the one to maintain the budget would be a little better....
 
I tightened the cable all the way and I was not able to disengage the motor from the wheels. Im kinda lost as to how the whole thing works but I know that It dosent work. I need a better manual to figure this shit out with.
 
I have had bikes that have sat for a long time give me difficulty with the the clutch releasing. The clutch discs actually were stuck together. I freed them by making sure the clutch was properly adjusted, then with the transmission in neutral and the engine running and front brake on, I put the bike in gear. It stalled the motor but after a couple of tries, the clutch broke free and everything was fine.

I know it sounds like a harsh thing to do but it has worked more than once for me. This is assuming that the clutch was functioning before and that you cannot find any damage to linkage or components.
 
So if you pull the cable, what does the little lever mechanism do? Is it pushing on the rod? Does it spring back into position?

What screws are you soaking? The ones holding the engine cover on? Replace those with socket-cap bolts - they should all be M6 (6mm metric) of varying lengths.

Tell us exactly what is happening in the linkage where the cable goes into the engine. If that side is working properly - i.e. the rod is moving in and out with the lever being pulled/released, and you've adjusted the cable so that it pushes the rod in as far as possible, then you want to open the clutch side which will drain the oil from the engine.
 
yup, i tryed all the way in, all the way out, in the middle. how far out should the rod that pushed the clutch stick out on its own?
 
I had a similar problem with mine. so did you check to see if the plates were stuck yet? If not this sounds wierd but my actuator rod actually got too short somehow ??? and I had the same symptoms. I could not find a spec for the length so I grabbed one from the local motorcycle wrecker and voila my rod was about 1/2" too short.
 
I pull the clutch and the disk moves out and pushes against the rod. but the rod dosent move horizontally. it sticks out 1/2" when i push it all the way through so i guess its not to short. LOL
 
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