CB200 rectifier/regulator question/problem

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http://forum.allaboutcircuits.com/showthread.php?t=40563

So, here they say that none of the DC grounds should be connected to the chassis. I know, completely different machine, but principle is the same right?

Can anybody enlighten me on the fact why the black wire coming out of the starter magnetic switch is grounded in my diagram?
 
As a denouement, a lot of Ducati and Triumph guys are upgrading their systems to MOSFET regulator/rectifiers. Ducati's have always had terrible electrical systems, and most owners become decent electricians by accident.

Here's a thread detailing why MOSFET units are the new hotness:

http://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-base-40/mosfet-regulator-rectifiers-why-how-25117/


Here is a thread detailing the installation of one on a '97 Ducati 748 (of particular note because this bike has a single-phase alternator):

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/94947-upgrade-fix-no-more-charging-regulator-rectifier-problems.html


Here is a thread discussing the use of a single-phase stator/alternator with a regrec that was designed for a three-phase:

http://www.electro-tech-online.com/general-electronics-chat/109390-three-phase-regulator-rectifier-single-phase-alternator.html


The future is here. The future is now.
 
Well well...
http://www.ducati.ms/forums/80-hall-wisdom/94947-upgrade-fix-no-more-charging-regulator-rectifier-problems.html

as they say here, its perfectly fine to connect 2 wires from a single phase stator to a 3 phase r/r.
Im going to score a secondhand r/r from a wrecker and try. I'll keep you'll updated!
 
Regulators on a permanent Magnet Alternator do not regulate the output from the alternator, they apply additional load to ground to keep the generated voltage from exceeding 14.6 to 15 volts.

The regulator is a SCR (a switchable diode) controlled by a Zener Diode. A zener diode is a diode with a specific, higher than usual forward voltage (14.6 to 15V).
The reality is the Zener isn't really at that forward voltage, but is tricked with some resistors into working at that voltage. When the DC volts from the rectifier hit about 14.6 volts, the zener diode starts activating the SCR and allows it to gradually short the rectifier output to ground. Since the SCR is controllable, it isn't a dead short, but more like adding additional lights to the bike. This causes the voltage from the rectifier to drop, maintaining the 14.6 volts.

this all assumes a properly functioning diode, resistors and SCR. If they start to fail, they can fail open circuit (then too much voltage output, shorted ( then no output,) or somewhere in between).

When you have all the alternator coils engaged, but don't have the lights on, you generate high voltage, causing the regulator to ground more current then usual, usually shortening the life of it from excess current and heat.

This is why you should not jump a motorcycle with a permanent magnet alternator from a car. If the regulator on the bike is working at a lower voltage, the running car alternator can supply enough current to overheat and kill the regulator quite quickly.

A 2 phase regulator should work, but you will have an empty wire, as the output should only go to one pair of inputs on the regulator.
The popular replacement in the $25 range, is the Kohler Regulater for their small engines, which also use a single phase, permanent magnet alternator. A google search will fing you all sorts of articles on it.

The alternator on the small Honda twin and others, are really sized just enough for the stock lighting, and a little extra to charge the battery. Extra lights or accessories will overwhelm the system, and your battery will slowly (or quickly) go dead. The CB350 has a 110 Watt alternator, the CB360 has a 130 watt alternator. The Ignition system is in the 40-50 watt range, the headlight 35 watt, the battery needs about 10-15 watts to charge. And the rest of the little lights (gauges) another 5 to 10 watts. Doesn't leave anything for even one extra light, without cutting into the battery charge current.
 
I'll make a minor correction to your excellent post.

It's OK to jump start a motorcycle from a car, just don't have the engine running on the jump vehicle.
 
Roght Alpha, I was tired, 13 hour work day, forgot to say it in text, but my mental text book had that...

I am surprised any words are spelled right at all....LOL
 
I was at a bikestore and the question came to talk. The dude gave me a spare single phase regulator 'to try out'. Its from a kawa z200 and has 2 yellows, 1 black and a red.

I hooked the yellows to pink and yellow, (put white/yellow and yellow on each other) and red to red. I assumed black was ground. Hooked up a battery and bike will start with battery, but when i detach the battery she dies. (with oem rectifier bike runs without battery) Also, the new one drains the battery, as it does not load. Black seemed not to be earth as well, but around 6v DC, (red is 8v DC)

I hooked up black to red but that gave a spark and bike died. So... i taped black shut and started again.
Bike will run, but riding it stuttert above 2000rpm. Thought it was carbs, so put on old rectifier and bike runs great (but gives 35v AC). So, this single-phase rectifier is no good as well. Strange thing is, on the kawa diagram, black is ground.

I'll order the Kohler one and post my findings.
 
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