CB350 Clutch Lever Goes Limp (CABLE NOT BROKEN)

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dlngro

1969 Honda CB350 K0
While taking my CB350 around the block to check out a carburetor issue, I pulled the clutch lever in while at a stop and the cable went slack…

THEN after pushing her home:

1. Clutch cover OFF.

2. Cable NOT broken.

3. Threaded adjuster at the handlebar perch SET 1/2 way in.

4. Cable bottom adjuster thread ALL the way in so you have maximum slack inside.

5. With case cover off engine, VERIFIED the #10 ball bearing is greased, in place.

6. Clutch cover ON.

7. Loosen adjuster locknut on case and screw the slotted bolt FULLY CLOCKWISE until it stops.

8. Begin adjusting locknut, increase cable tension.

9. Pull clutch lever.

10. Cable goes slack again.
 
Search clutch adjustment, common 'fault' when your doing something wrong
Try counter clock
 
chances are youre setting the tension way too tight.
WHen its too tight it will pop out of place like that.
Basically when everything is assembled losen the adjuster nut and turn the flat head whichever way until you feel it start to get tight, once you hit that resistance point you want to go about another 1/8 turn in that direction and you should be good.
You should have a bit of slack in the clutch lever.
 
SONICJK said:
chances are youre setting the tension way too tight.
WHen its too tight it will pop out of place like that.
Basically when everything is assembled losen the adjuster nut and turn the flat head whichever way until you feel it start to get tight, once you hit that resistance point you want to go about another 1/8 turn in that direction and you should be good.
You should have a bit of slack in the clutch lever.
Click to expand...

Turn clockwise just until you feel resistance, then an 1/8 turn back. Too tight is what causes it to stick open.
 
Not fixing that. Looks like it's time for a new crank case cover...
 

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Sonreir said:
Maybe I'm blind... but I'm not seeing anything wrong?
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In order to get the slightest amount of tension on the clutch lever, the adjuster locknut needs to be out to a distance that causes the this tongue and groove mechanism slip (hence lever suddenly going limp). I believe that it keeps slipping because the tongue is stripped.
 

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It's possible that my depth perception is off and it appears to be different than it is in person, but that doesn't look stripped. The clutch adjuster seems to be slotting into it pretty well.
 
The lever goes limp because the mechinism rotates too far and the balls rotate out of the ramped part onto the flat part. I may be wrong (probably am wrong) about the direction you should rotate the adjuster, but make sure you do it with both cable adjusters slack. Adjust it so that the part in your middle picture is all the way in, then an 8th back. Then adjust the cable so that you have the right amount of slack at the lever. The nick in the locator tab doesn't look big enough for the adjuster to rotate.
 
yep, the stripped whateveryoucallit has nothing to do with your problem, your primary adjustment (screw and locknut on clutch cover) is too far in, back it out and don't forget to put the ball bearing back in the push rod housing (there are 4 total, 3 on ramps and one that actually pushes on the clutch rod)
 
This clutch thing is really starting to piss me off. Mostly because it came out of nowhere. I really don't know what to do, following ever step but certain things just aren't happening. For example, there's never any slight tension when turning the adjuster screw. It's like pulling a level with a cable attached to air.
 
Finally, after taking the rear left crank case off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off...I got it. Now for that carburetor problem! :o
 
Are you missing the ball in the middle? Does the rod look worn? What happens if you screw the adjuster all the way out?
 
dlngro said:
Finally, after taking the rear left crank case off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off and putting it back on and taking it back off...I got it. Now for that carburetor problem! :o
Click to expand...

Cool! I've done it a dozen times too. I have detailed diagrams burnt into my memory.
 
Agh! What was the solution? What did you find after all that on and off?

I'm having the same sort of problem. Follow up people, follow up!
 
Just remember 'unscrewing' the adjuster in case cover TIGHTENS the adjuster onto pushrod, set that then adjust cable (although I'm pretty sure you figured it out 10 months ago ;D )
 
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