CB350 rear set bell crank or how to set up rear sets twice...

mattrod68

New Member
okay, so this is my first real post that contributes to the forum. i hope it helps someone who maybe set up their rear set brake wrong (ie flipped arm and threaded rod) like me and then realized it later.

so my im setting up my buddies cb350 cafe project for him as i recently (9 months ago) lost my right leg below the knee. ive got plenty of time to kill as im not back at work yet and am having a good time putting my first cafe together. i build cars and restorations mostly so while i have some skills, bikes are pretty new to me. i did a light modification to a cl350 (tracker style) right before the whole leg thing started but i only took it on a shake down run before the shit hit the fan so lets assume im a newbie.

this is how we set up the Old School Speed(?) rear sets the first time around. like 1.5 years ago. it was never ridden like this, i stumbled on a post here about how it was the lazy way to do it and it would cause all kinds of bump-brake problems. so i told him we had to start over.



first step was to get a bent brake arm (mine) and start getting rid of the unnecessary pieces.





next i had to figure out a way to transfer the motion of the rear set pedal to the stock pedal arm, after looking exhaustively here, i saw some i liked, and some i didnt, and borrowed a few ideas and made it my own.







while this looks complicated, its not. this could have been done with thinner wall tubing if you don't have a lathe. i had some .375 wall tubing laying around that was the correct outer dimension, so i hollowed it out and made it work. i also stepped it inside, so it was tight on the old arm, but big enough for the washer/bolt, and a socket to fit inside the outer part.





then after a fit up, i made a brake arm to attach to the rear set via threaded rod and heims. again could have been made by hand, i just had a blair holesaw the right size.





after a fit up i tacked it on. something i picked up from another post here--leave the brake arm on down to the frame while fitting up, then you have a way to hold the bell crank in the proper position and know where it stopped stock.



after that was welded on i decided to attach the stock pre-load adjustment tab, so we can adjust the brakes as God and Honda intended.



after bolting it all together and checking it one more time, i marked the position of everything, pulled it apart and cut the brake pedal off. i managed to keep the tab that pulls on the rear brake switch intact. should the owner ever want to hook it back up (its deleted as of now)



then i put it back together and tacked on the outer tube



installed on the bike (i know dangerous tires, more of a show piece really wants to carry it around in his 1964 el camino and put around shows. ill convince him soon to get something better)





so after the test ride (worked great) i pulled it off finish welded it and shot some paint on it. its drying now.





im pleased to say that it works great, all the factory adjustability is there and it can be tuned to the riders preferences just like stock, but better!

here is a pic of the bike just because



sorry about the filter is the only full pic i have.

any questions or suggestions? feel free

hope this helps some one!

matt
 
Nice post with some good pictures. I have to do the same thing on my 350 and that is how I had it worked it out in my head (just waiting on more welding experience). Nice to see it actually done and working. Thanks for posting, going to bookmark for reference when I tackle mine.
 
More or less a copy of the 350 set I build, which is the best way to do a 350.
 
yeah j-rod. i think he bought the rearsets before your set with the bell crank was available. hes had them for almost 2 years, maybe less i dont know the last 2 years were a blur for me in the hospital! great rearsets by the way, feel really nice

only thing i changed is i did not like the way the rod ends with the studs sticking out felt, im at a loss for what they are called. so i switched them to regular through style rod ends.

by the way, anybody ever drill the bell crank and add a zerk fitting so it can be greased on the bike? bad idea?

matt
 
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