CB350 twin cafe

C

camelman

New Member
Hey guys, I'm new to this forum, and basically just joined to list this bike. However, I think i'll be spending some time on here now that I've scrolled around it some. Plenty of good threads!


I've been active on the sohc4 forum as well as the hondatwins.net site for a while. Last year, I got an itch to start building custom bikes, and started this project. The project took too long for the customer, and he ended up buying a newer Harley Sportster. I can't really blame him, but I'm not interested in keeping the bike for various reasons. I'm definitely going to be sad to see it go, and I really like driving it around and getting comments, but other pressing projects need me to open up some space and refund the original buyer his deposit... so here it is. I know I have it listed kinda high, but such is life. I'm definitely open to offers. You can follow this link to get the details (http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/mcy/2361471716.html). This link has a few more pics too: http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/mcy/2363321951.html


Send me an e-mail if you are interested. Again, the asking price is just a place holder. I'm also open to making changes any buyer wants (to a degree).
 

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then what IS your asking price. Because as it is, I just see you as another person driving up the prices of our much loved CHEAP classics.

What a bike is worth to yourself is always much more then what its worth to the public. unfortunate, but true. short answer: don't ever sell it!
 
Yeah, they are always worth more to the builder/owner. I have one offer in the low $4s that I'm working through right now. It would have been sold to the guy by now if he didn't live 500 miles away!! Anyway, $4400 is the new price point.
 
I don't think I'm driving up the price of the classics. A stock 60s/70s Honda is still pretty affordable, looks good as is and is a completely different bike than this one. This bike has had a lot of work done to it to fit a different style. That work costs money for parts and services, which is why I have it listed higher than a stocker. If you were to send a stock bike into a shop to have this done, then you'd pay a lot more than what I'm asking. If you can do it all yourself, then you'd come out a little less than what I'm asking.


Here's a more detailed rundown of what was done. I'm definitely missing some of the things I've done, but this should give you an idea of how thorough I was.

Wheels:
Powder coated the rims and hubs, then rebuilt with new stainless spokes (true and no hops)
New tubes/tires and they were balanced
Engine:
Bored out 0.5 over with new pistons, rings, and circlips
New gaskets throughout
Stripped the entire engine down to bare aluminum, and then repainted with engine enamel
Split everything apart when I was having it bored, and cleaned out the case halves
Lapped the valves
Frame:
New mounts for the seat and tank welded on and VERY solid
Trimmed off all the extra bits in the middle triangle where the electronics used to go
Welded up a new battery tray behind the rear frame hump
New footpeg rubber
Stripped the upper triple tree to bare aluminum then polished
New steering head bearings
New clip-ons that fit snug and don’t move
New fork ears that fit snugly and don’t move
Powder coated the frame including the heads of the bolts (the powder coat looks good even after tightening the bolts)
Powder coated the swingarm and chain guard (I keep it on to keep chain grease under control)
3M tape on the swing arm center section to provide additional protection against rock chips (this is the tape used on car rocker panels)
Carbs:
Sonic cleaned the carbs
Complete rebuild and jetted to 130 mains from 115s (could go up to 135s)
New carb boots ($90 freaking bucks for those) and mating surface gaskets
All new fuel hoses and overflow tubes
Two separate petcocks that have twist knobs. One feeds each carb, and they look pretty slick!
Diaphragms were new, so I didn’t have to replace them
New K&N pod filters
Bodywork:
NOS Benelli Mojave fuel tank with NOS fuel cap and two petcocks
New café seat from “Glass from the Past” including the seat pad and painted with VW black auto paint
Removed the side covers and all the mounting brackets to clean up the look
Stock headlight bucket, which could use a repaint to clean up some scuffs, but no cracks ( I have black paint to match the seat if you want)
Ignition:
Dyna coils
New points
New condensers
New plugs
New wires
New resistor caps for the plugs
New points harness (I made one and heat wrapped the wires)
Suspension:
Rebuilt front forks with new tubes by “Forking by Frank”, who is a recognized leader in fork tubes for these bikes. They are better than the originals, and will keep their finish.
New rear shocks from Hagon. Their spring rate fits my weight perfectly (170 lbs), and should be fine for 30 pounds either way
New fork oil in the front forks
Lights, Electrics and Controls:
Stock headlight and gauges
Aftermarket LED system in the rear with red lights in the middle and yellow lights on the side. It completely hides away until you turn them on
Stock controls (the left one is a little worn, but I have a replacement that I just haven't put on yet)
All new cables
New grips and throttle tube
New left Napoleon mirror that fits into the bar end (I have one for the right side too if you need it).
New AGM battery
New front turn signals
Exhaust:
New shorty mufflers
Stock headers, but repainted with VHT paint and cured correctly
New exhaust gaskets
The exhaust sounds amazing. It is deep and throaty when on the power, and rumbles when you let off the gas.

Maintenance:
Greased everything up including the swingarm
Mobil Delvac Diesel Truck Synthetic oil (the clutch grips tightly and Delvac oil contains higher zinc content than other engine oils, which helps to maintain surface finishes on the bearings, cam, and lifters)
No leaks from the engine or fuel system
 
I use diesel engine oil because it has higher levels of ZDDP (zinc) than other engine oils on the market. ZDDP in engine oils was used as a wear inhibitor (it helps fill micro scratches in bearing surfaces) in older engines. However, ZDDP does not react well with catalytic converters, so the relative concentrations have been decreased over the years. Diesel engines have some very high pressure loads on various parts of the engine (as compared to gas engines), so the ZDDP levels have been kept higher in diesel oil than in gasoline oil because modern diesel engines will not survive without it. I know this because I'm also as into my Jetta Diesel as I am into my motorcycles. ;-)
I've also been recommended to use it by one of the most knowledgeable Honda guys I know (HondaMan from the SOHC4 Forum, who has actually written a few books about these old beasts).


You can find more info about ZDDP here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_dithiophosphate They also discuss how classic vehicle engine load surface failures are attributed to lower ZDDP content.


Dr. J, I want to say thanks for some of your posts that I read. I don't remember exactly which ones they were, but I believe it had to do with carbs. They helped me get through a couple issues.


Regards,
Camelman
 
camelman said:
Dr. J, I want to say thanks for some of your posts that I read. I don't remember exactly which ones they were, but I believe it had to do with carbs. They helped me get through a couple issues.
Click to expand...

Really, well thanks. Honestly, I don't remember what I posted about carbs but my Dyna coils review was well read. And on the oil thing, these old bikes are not picky at all. Any 10-40 will do, even the cheapest store brand car oil is okay in my experience. But I've settled on Motul 5100, I find my 350 shifts very smoothly and revs up quickly with it.
 
It was probably the coil thread then. Thanks for nothing on the carbs. ;)

Regarding oil, my first bike (when I was 16) was a 360t. It got an oil change with used car engine oil whenever I put new oil in my car. It ran like a top!!! I just take a little more caution with other peoples' bikes now. I don't like repercussions.
 
I've never used diesel oil on my bike so I can't say. But a lot of guys are doing it now. It's cheap and it's sold in these large buckets. So far Motul is the best oil I've used on my CB350 considering price, it's pointless and a waste of money to use full synth on our old bikes.
 
This is an ancient discussion. If you are really interested in it, then please search at forums.sohc4.net and read as much as you want. I highly recommend HondaMan's comments if you find any threads that interest you. He has a racing and mechanics background combined with a substantial knowledge of chemical, mechanical, electrical and tribology. It really is shocking how much he knows about how these engines function.


I'm sure this forum has some great posts on it too. Some people swear by synthetic, some people hate it. The engine on this bike I'm selling doesn't leak with synthetic, and I cleaned it out when it was apart so it should have any deposits coming loose, and the clutch doesn't slip.


FYI, I've never found any of the negative issues associated with synthetic oils on my cars/motorcycles. However, if you are interested in this bike, and want a different oil in it, then it is easy enough to change.


Regards,
Camelman
 
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