CB360 front fork help

O

oathamm

Active Member
Hi all

Working on cb360 front forks, dismantled one fork but can't get the allen bolt at bottom out of the other, I assume the bolt is just spining the inside tube it's threaded to, is there a trick to prevent that and actually loosen the bolt?



Thanks
Matt
 
Im not really sure it even needs to come out. On my 69CL350 it just holds a little centering stopper thing in the bottom of the tube. I imagine just to give the fork tube a stronger surface area to bottom out on. Rather than just the aluminum lower bottom. In the event you ever bottom out the forks.

And it looks like the centering part of the stopper, may prevent like 99% of oil transfer from lower to fork tube...to help soften the blow at the end. If it bottoms out. I think maybe?

On the 72CL100 I just disassembled the forks yesterday. And I didnt take them out. Same deal.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=65898.msg758991#msg758991

Looking back to 2013 I did remove them from the CL350 forks. Yep they have the centering tube and stopper bottom. But, even still they didnt "HAVE" to come out to dis-assemble.

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=27417.585
 
The forks are badly pitted so I needed to totally dismantle them to send them for skimming and re-chroming.

I did notice that the rebound springs circled in the picture below are missing from my forks, should they be there on all models? I can get replacements cheap enough just wonder if I definitely need them?

 
Sorry I dont know about the springs.

Where are you sending the forks for the work?
 
Any local shop should be able to 'buurrrppp' it out with an air tool. It's a good idea to re-fit springs to make life easier
 
Set the fork lower in a vise (use a rag around the lower or soft Aluminum jaws to avoid gouging the fork). Use an air impact at the same time pull on the fork slider to extend it fully. The other way is to buy a tool that slides down and holds the damper rod to prevent it from spinning in the fork (item #9 in your diagram). Using the impact method, pulling the fork completely extended, put friction on the damper rod so it resists spinning, and the impact shocks the bolt loose too fast to overcome the friction.

If you have soft jaws for your vise, you can do it like I usually do, clamp the slider in the vise, and pull on the lower, while hitting it with the impact gun.
 
If your going to DIY it, don't put lower in vice, too easy to distort.
Clamp top of upper tube between area where fork clamps go, make sure you use wood, alloy or rags to prevent damage.
It's easier to pull on larger diameter of fork bottom. If you find holding it to prevent turning difficult, bolt a piece of strat iron across fender mounting bolts then rotate until it's laying on benchtop or front (depending how you clamped fork tube)
 
oathamm said:
Cheers, used the broom handle trick to hold the inside tube in place
Click to expand...

Yep, I did this a few months ago on my CB360. A google search found a post where someone else mentioned the "broomstick trick" without any description of what that trick was. Luckily, it's just what you think it is. We held the fork lower in a vise with rags, one person stuck a wooden broom handle in the fork lower and pushed as hard as he could while the other used an impact gun on the allen bolt. Worked perfectly.
 
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