cb360 gurus? help please...

R

ryanglade

Been Around the Block
I went and looked at a 75 360 today. The guy has totally gone thru the bike. new tires, brakes, did some engine work, had the carbs gone thru, new seat cover, etc.

here is a link, he has dropped the price to 1500 but says he wont go lower since he put 1800 (and has paperwork to prove it) into the bike.

http://bend.craigslist.org/mcy/2995816391.html

the bikelooks and sounds like it is running great. I rode it and the throttle was not returning to normal/off in the lower revs of the throttle. If you got on the throttle hard it returned but not at low throttle adjustments. Also the rear brake is pretty soft, you have to get on it to feel it engage at all. something felt a little off about it but I could not find it or figure out what it was.

I am not a cb360 expert, in fact i am quite a novice with them (and truth be told motorcycles in general). What is normal with these bikes - I know the throttle stick is not normal but what about the brakes. Most of my recent bike experience has been on a buddy's 1978 cb400 hawk and it felt much smoother.

I am looking for a bike that I can ride everyday and also teach the wife to ride on. I want something with some cafe potential but user friendly. In all honesty the user friendly part is probably a higher priority, especially for the wife.

any help is appreciated.
 
I figured the throttle cable as much. The brakes I have heard they can be soft on these bikes, but that is hearsay. The can probably use some adjusting.

I have heard the suspension is soft on these bikes also, I wonder if that was the ride difference?
 
Lucky guy ....I've always had to buy before I try....except a few times when i've traded, but you seem to be doing the right thing i'd check out as many bikes as you can before buying one...what if you try something else and like it more Def try out a 2 stroke if given the chance
 
the suspension on my 360 is kinda soft, it works out though cause i have alot of bumpy back rds around,and my rear brake could probably use some adjusting as well.
 
Rear suspension on 99% of 70s Hondas is complete garbage. These were primarily base model, commuter bikes built for entry level riders (read: young kids, college students, daytrippers, etc.).

That said, they didnt use any high quality materials, or parts (outside of the mostly unkillable motors).

Replacing the rear shocks with proper bits, as well as rebuilding the forks with modern seals, fluids, and upgraded internals will make a MASSIVE difference in handling.

As far as the drum brakes on the old bikes...

In most cases they perform better than the disk setups of the era. As long as they are clean, still in round (the drums) and properly adjusted. Read the repair manual and get everything to factory specs. Makes a world of difference.

And, to the OP:

That cable issue may because of that awful fairing. Oy looks like he has all of the cables (and piss poor wiring job) crammed behind it instead of letting it run in a natural and gentle curve.

Not only that and the fact that it is horrid looking, but its WAY too big for that bike. Kills any positves in the handling at speed, and probobly weighs a ton which affects braking/handling.
 
IN that 1800 bucks did the guy replace the rear brake shoes? Make sure as that would be the FIRST thing I would look at if I bought it. That might also be the issue as some guys have no idea how to "SET" new brake shoes. Front disks do suck worse than today's models but they can be made to perform better, deglazing/drilling the rotors and replacing rubber lines with braided steel lines really makes a difference.

The 2 throttle cables need to be ROUTED properly as well as lubed and if the tank has ever been off then there is a good chance they got put back in place wrong. There is actually a page in the manual that shows how, or one of the addendums I forget which.

IMHO a bike is only worth what you are willing to pay for it, what else was done by the PO?
 
The cable was behind the fairing, but we moved it o that it was free. That doesn't mean that it is routed correctly but it is not bound up behind the fairing. And yes the fairing is the first thing that goes if I get it.

The guy said that he redid the brakes front and rear. He has a file of receipts and paperwork showing what he did to it but I did not dive into it. He did some engine work, I know some valves for sure. It was a barn find and he tore down the whole thing and went over it. Engine wise itruns really good.

I am pretty sure the cable will be an easy fix. The rear brake hopefully would be a simple-ish adjustment, I think this is my biggest hangup with the bike. I know he put 1800 into the bike but I don't know what I would be willing to pay for it. 1500 is probably a decent amount to pay for a good runner but I don't want to have to pay a bunch to get the brakes figured out if they are not solved by a simple adjustment.

last night someone posted this bike up for sale: http://bend.craigslist.org/mcy/3048181334.html

I don't know much about the xj 650 but I might check it out.

Thanks for the replies.
 
I could put $20000 into a Yugo. Its still a Yugo. Thats a common misconception amongst people. Its rare that you'll ever see the money you put into a bike come back when you sell it. Unless its a full concourse resto on something rare.
 
ryanglade said:
I am pretty sure the cable will be an easy fix. The rear brake hopefully would be a simple-ish adjustment, I think this is my biggest hangup with the bike. I know he put 1800 into the bike but I don't know what I would be willing to pay for it. 1500 is probably a decent amount to pay for a good runner but I don't want to have to pay a bunch to get the brakes figured out if they are not solved by a simple adjustment.
Click to expand...

Don't be scared of the brakes. Worst case scenario, you'll buy new EBC pads ($25), and spend $15 at the auto parts store having your brake drum turned down a few thousandths. So it's not a major amount of money even if you have to overhaul them.
 
That's a fair price for a 360 in these parts. It's a bit on the high side, but it looks like it was well maintained and taken care of.

As for the throttle issue, it's a dual cable system and so if the return spring isn't up to the task, you should be able to "push" the throttle back into a closed position. If that doesn't seem to solve the hanging revs issue, it probably just needs a carb sync.

Rear brake on my 360 is a bit spongy as well, but it shouldn't be too bad. In the attached pic, you can see how the pads can be checked. Basically, depress the rear brake and watch the arrow (#3) on the brake arm move. If the arrow passes the line indicated as #2, it's probably time for new pads.
 

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Thats a good picture thanx. I haven't decided on the bike yet. I am less nervous about it, just trying to figure out what I want to do.
 
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