CB360 Head issues, what are my options?

I agree. The previous owners may have run non-spec'ed oil, although I personally know the owner of the donor bike pretty well, and he doesn't strike me like the type that would not follow the recommended instructions.

I've see a lot of motorcycle riders rev the heck out of bikes right at start up. That kills a bike pretty quick in my opinion so I can totally see that leading to this issue as well.
Either way, I'd like to re-build this engine correctly, and to do so, I have to understand the root cause first.
 
they sell accumulators for the cars. Basically a spring loaded piston. As you ride, some oil is diverted to the accumulator to charge it up. They use a solenoid valve to retain the pressure. When you turn the key on, the solenoid opens, and the stored oil under pressure is circulated through the engine before you even crank it.

Not sure if it would work well with a 350 and the piston oil pump, too low pressure and volume. It might be feasible for a CB360 as it has a slightly better oil pump.

Of course, go old school with a hand pump. Couple of pumps to oil the head and your good to go.... Be like 1910 all over....
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
Not sure if it would work well with a 350 and the piston oil pump, too low pressure and volume. It might be feasible for a CB360 as it has a slightly better oil pump.
Of course, go old school with a hand pump. Couple of pumps to oil the head and your good to go.... Be like 1910 all over....
Click to expand...

Hahahaha, no doubt right?
 
So I've been reading thru the forums like a mad man. I was surprised at how many times this issue has been posted about.
Particularly a post where Sonreir brought it up and User Kanticoy posted pictures of an elaborate oil system setup to tackle the issue.

Again, the option of drilling thru the empty casting port that can feed the middle journal came back up as another solution to the issue.
My question is CrazyPj stated the following,
crazypj said:
Back in the 70's 'we' thought it was oil breaking down but really the main problem was people using way too thick an oil plus not warming motor before revving it. motor is designed for 10w, using 20w/50 or straight 30 or 40wt will destroy top end pretty quick
The real problem is the oil transfer piece in the clutch cover, I've posted pics of modifications.
I use 5w/40 full synthetic oil with 2oz ZDDP added but you need to fit heavy duty clutch springs
Without oil flow it doesn't matter how many holes you drill
Click to expand...

I haven't found the pictures that CrazyPj is referring to yet. I'm going to keep looking for them, but if you guys have a link to the thread he's talking about, I would certainly appreciate it.

Curious, has anyone tried to make journal bushings out of Oilite?
 
I can't remember where I posted them either, have a feeing it was un someonr elses thread.
I'll find them on photobucket and post them up for you
 
Thank you CrazyPj!

So you opened the inside of the ring. What did you mean by "went too far spring overlaps"?
 
The ledge the spring rests on
I ground it all the way to inside edge, need to stop at least thickness of spring
It will still be fine, just didn't need to do so much
 
Understood.

Is this the only mod required if the Cam Journals are in good shape? Or is this part 1 of a handful of other mods. For example, would I do this mod then drill that extra oil hole for the center journal?
 
I don't bother with drilling the head, but, I've drilled the cam instead plus the feed holes in crankcase leading up to rear studs
I'm looking at various other mods in the future but just too burned out to bother at present
 
Stretching spring doesn't increase it's tension, you still have same wire diameter, fitted length and 'working coils'
You need to open the feed holes.
The bottom end gets way more oil than it needs, there isn't a pressure feed to big ends, it's centrifuged into a collector around flywheel and fed in through a drilling in crankpin
 
crazypj said:
Stretching spring doesn't increase it's tension, you still have same wire diameter, fitted length and 'working coils'
You need to open the feed holes.
The bottom end gets way more oil than it needs, there isn't a pressure feed to big ends, it's centrifuged into a collector around flywheel and fed in through a drilling in crankpin
Click to expand...

I was thinking more along the lines of roughly same spring rate but now longer spring compressed back to the same length so therefore more force or just putting a new spring in, but even with that its gonna just build more pump side pressure since its still restricted there which doesn't fix anything. I'll probably open this up on my next oil change, thanks!
 
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