CB550 Cafe Interceptor - Gentleman's Roadster

MatthiasSalzburg said:
Amazing build. It's a shame your selling it.
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Thanks, but I didn't (couldn't) sell it after all.
As a matter of fact, I've been tinkering with a brake upgrade.
Not that the single disc & R6 caliper didn't scrub off the speed perfectly well or anything.
I just have an affinity for Brembo GP billet calipers.

 
The caliper mounts on these R6 forks are perfect for adapting the Brembo GP caliper but to better centre the caliper between the mounts required a slightly larger rotor. Up from 300mm to this 310mm floating rotor.

If you ever need help finding the perfect rotor for your bike, check this searchable database out. You can specify any number of parameters.

http://metalgear.com.au/search_by_disc_measurements.php

 
Re: CB550F Interceptor

FunJimmy said:
When I set out on the mission to build rear sets for my Café Project bike I didn’t think that it would be as much work or as rewarding as it’s been. At the onset, the goal was just to build a nice set of controls fabricated from any number of parts sourced from wreckers or ebay and modified using the occasional part made from scrap aluminum. Only when I started making parts did the focus change to a complete custom set designed and built to the best of my abilities and to function as well as they can. It’s been the biggest single task of the project and I’m very proud of the outcome.

Here they are straight from the anodized and ready to be installed.

1041RightRearsetAnodized.jpg


1042LeftRearsetAnodized.jpg
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I stumbled on this looking for spoke wheel/hub parts for an R6... Very nice work on this build, I can only hope to achieve 1/2 the outcome on my K2-750. Could you... would you share the layout templates for these rear sets or are you whittling these as one offs only??
 
Top job 8) been thru full thread and links over and over again just love attention to detail n quality of ya build :P sure as hell I woudnt sell her either hats of to ya fella ;)
 
FunJimmy said:
Thanks for the kind words. The rear-sets truly are one-off's. The only drawings where sketches on a cocktail napkin. Everything on the Interceptor was hand made using simple machines and tools. I wish I had a working knowledge of drafting software that I could have designed with but the reality is I'm hands on.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. I had a chance to test out rear sets similar to the positioning of yours, what I found is that my old bones can't stay in that ride position very long. So the next option is to get riser clip on bars and keep the stock ride position, I do plan to change the bulky stock pegs and mounts to lighter more modern materials though.

Thanks again,
RD :o
 
Ok, I've gotta come clean. I've been keeping secrets and it's time to make good.
When I originally cut down the front fender (page 11) I totally screwed the paint.

Thought it was a good idea to tape the entire fender with masking tape, draw my new shape, cut and peel.
Note to self......always peel the tape from the centre down to the edge. Never peel in the opposite direction, unless you want to re-paint.




This required some attention and starting over offered an opertunity to tidy up a few deficiencies.





 
While I'm at it I figured I'd do both fenders in the same carbon weave.
Don't worry about the cloth seams on the front fender. That will be painted leaving only the mount spars clear to carbon.




This time I used crystal clear surfboard resin. Surfboard resin also has a UV inhibitor.

 
A very special Thank You goes out to my friend John for helping with this emblem graphic that will grace the Cafe Interceptor front fender.
Here's one of the paint masks that my painter will be working with. The clarity is second to none. Can't wait to see how it comes together.


 
I really like how well the small and intense Eagle Eye LED signals on the front work that I ordered some more for the rear and made special housings.



Eagle Eye LED has the same OD as the housing and slip over and index on the sleeve.



Signal housings/fender mounts ready for anodizing.



Test fit.

 
LED signal lights are great at night but are usually to small and to dim to perform well in daylight. This is often exacerbated by the use of ballast/load resistors in parallel with the signals to make the low-draw LEDs flash at the correct rate. You absolutely must use an electronic flasher in place of the old-fashioned relay to get the full brightness from your LEDs.

Here's a quick video of the Eagle Eye LED signals with a Joker Machine LED tail light.

https://vimeo.com/125427496
 
Got the Interceptor out for a quick spin today.
The painter did an amazing job with the increadabily challenging detail of painting the emblem and I think I got the cut of the fender right this time too.




 
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