Chain gets tight at certain spots

keeleydavis

keeleydavis

Been Around the Block
i noticed my chain was loose so I went to adjust and noticed that when I spin the wheel, the chain gets tighter and looser at certain spots. The marks on the sides of the wheel are the same so the chain should be straight. I am not sure how old the chain and sprockets are so maybe its time to get new ones? Just wanted to make sure I wasnt overlooking something before I dropped the cash. Thanks much. 1976 cb750
 
Try a lube, but be prepared to replace chain and sprocket both.
Look carefully at your rear sprocket. Spin the rear wheel and watch the sprocket at the swingarm. As sprockets wear, the teeth tend to get asymetrical as it is possible that the wear is uneven resulting in a sprocket that is no longer round/concentric with the wheel.


Front sprockets generally wear more slowly that rears, but check them both.


If you decide to replace the chain you really need to replace at least the rear sprocket as well.
Putting a new chain on a worn sprocket will greatly reduce the life of the chain as well as increase the wear on the old sprocket more quickly.


Replace them as a system if possible.
 
Bozz said:
Try a lube, but be prepared to replace chain and sprocket both.
Look carefully at your rear sprocket. Spin the rear wheel and watch the sprocket at the swingarm. As sprockets wear, the teeth tend to get asymetrical as it is possible that the wear is uneven resulting in a sprocket that is no longer round/concentric with the wheel.


Front sprockets generally wear more slowly that rears, but check them both.


If you decide to replace the chain you really need to replace at least the rear sprocket as well.
Putting a new chain on a worn sprocket will greatly reduce the life of the chain as well as increase the wear on the old sprocket more quickly.


Replace them as a system if possible.
Click to expand...

+1

you dont wanna mess with a ripped chain.
 
JT and sprocket specialists are trusted vendors.
To be honest, motorcycle chains are exactly the same as industrial use chains, the numbering systems and o-ring designations are the same across applications.
A lot of it is brand recognition/marketing.
Chain technology has come a long way in the past 30 years, and the metallurgy has improved greatly.
80hp bikes of the 70's used 630 because they needed it. Today 140hp bikes use 530 and are well within spec.
You really can't go much wrong with a recognizable brand name.
Don't cheap out, though, as there is some junk out there. I'm just saying you don't *have* to pay top dollar to get a good chain.
YMMV


And yes, as mentioned while you are in there check the wheel bearings/swingarm bushings, etc.
 
If you're replacing the chain, replace the sprockets. They are a wear item.
 
It could also be that your axle adjusters got tweaked a bit, pushing your axle just slightly off center. Maybe not immediately noticeable to the eye, but it would certainly throw off your sprocket alignment and therefore your chain.
 
Much thanks everyone. Any clues on how many links I would need?

Also would a 520 chain be okay?
http://www.bikebandit.com/jt-sprockets-520-hds-ultimate-competition-race-series-drive-chain?m=9456

Thinking this sprocket. http://www.bikebandit.com/jt-sprockets-steel-sprocket?b=37222
 
It natural for that yo happen from what I have learned.. It's because the sprocket isn't exactly on center and isn't perfectly round. You tighten the chain at the tightest spot. A chain is only worn if it has excess play in the links. But get new ones if your concerned but ypu may be surprised that you still get the tight and loose spots while tightening.



Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk 2
 
If you change chain sizes you will need to change sprockets as well.
Keep an eye on your sprocket ratio if you change chain sizes.
At first blush I would think that a modern 520 chain can handle the power output of a stock 76 CB750 motor.
If you've improved the motor, however, you might want to stick to 530 or at least check into it carefully.
 
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