CJ360 (CB360) Rebuild, electric starter, 6 speed

[crazypj]

The guide may 'close' slightly but adjustable reamers in small sizes are difficult to use for accurate cut.
If it won't close up enough to get correct clearance you'll have to pull it and fit another (no point going this far then doing a half assed job)
You will have to re-cut valve seats with a real cutter and pilot (laping isn't going to work)
There is a seller on eBay with Neway copies, 1/3~ 1/2 the price. (still works out expensive if you get all you need to do ' race' seats)
Getting correct reamer will make life a lot easier. W hen I lived in Britain I got majority of precision stuff from Tracey Tools in Devon. Their prices are usually pretty good (I've even ordered stuff I couldn't get anywhere else from them since I moved to Florida but, shipping is killer crazy expensive)

 

[ManuR]

So are you saying that i have to cut the valve seats either way, or only of i use a the adjustable reamer?
i don't really feel tempted to spend 450 dollars/euros on something i will probably only use once ;D
Or ruin my head trying.

Do you know what angles i need, because the diagram in the manual doesn't clear it up for me. (so many angles listed).

 

[ManuR]

I have taken a look around, and found a company who will press the valves guides, ream them, cut the seats and grind the valves, for 44 bucks.
is it oke if they ream the valve guides with a H7 (7mm) reamer, or should they use a 6.98mm reamer?
And can anybody give me a little drawing of what the valve seat profile should look like?
i have never been to a shop like this, so i would like to go prepared.

I have Also bought Some stock air filters. For now i am just going to blow the dust out of the filter. Lets hope all these things will make the motor run as good as it can

 

[crazypj]

Valve seats should be 1.00mm~1.25mm intake 1.50mm exhuast.
Angles are 60, 45, 30.
I'll have to check reamer size, way too long since I've done 360 guides

 

[Sonreir]

Valve guides should be .275" to 0.2766".

 

[crazypj]

A 0.275" reamer may be cheaper than a 6.98mm?

 

[ManuR]

So i brought "my head" to the specialist.
i wrote on a paper 6.98mm or 7mm.
either way is fine by me.

If i wood have had the tools, i would have done the head work myself, but this way there is one less variable to go wrong haha.

I really hope to have the engine assembled next week.
do i really need assembly lube? or can i just cranck the engine with the kick a few times before starting?

 

[datadavid]

A good machinist measures the valves and ream the guides after the closest matching valve.

 

[trek97]

I used zpaste. Also fill the cam bowls w oil before fitting head cover.

https://www.amazon.com/ZPlus-080101-ZPaste-Assembly-Lube/dp/B00H271R6A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486232981&sr=8-1&keywords=zpaste

 

[ManuR]

So finally back to the reassembling proces. And got my head back.

It was the first time is used a liquid gasket material (threebond 1184). So i tried to do it everything in time but we will see how it seals when the engine is running.

So I installed al new oil seals. I also installed a new cam chain. Just to be safe.

The paint chipped here and there, but I will just touch it up when everything is done.

I am just waiting on the one last inner valve spring. And the kikstarter clutch. To put everything together.

I mustn't forget to look at the oil mod's to.

 

[SrgtBear]

Just stumbled upon your build. Nice work so far. Loving the pictures. I used Hondabond on my KZ650 engine rebuild, same as Threebond so ive been told. Applied a thin coat with 1-2mm of squish when the cases were mergered. Held up nicely, no engine leaks. You should be good.

 

[ManuR]

Thanks, but i have to say, i would not have been able to complete this if it wasn't for the help of everybody here.

 

[ManuR]

Litle update, installed the electric starter clutch. I am amazed how good this simple system works. The clutch basket and disks. And the oil pump.

But I tried to test the oil channels, with compressed air. And I found I came out here. I hope this isn't a crack or a piece that has broken of.

 

[SrgtBear]

I don't see anything unusual but it looks like an o-ring or seal fits into the lip of that hole. You'll want to make sure you replace all the O-rings and seals throughout the engine pieces to avoid leaks and ensure good oil pressure. Also the case pieces have guide pins. Don't loose them as they can sometimes come out easily with pressurized air or force.

 

[ManuR]

Yeah, one of those guide pins decided to stay in the other shop. So when I was reassembling I had to drive 30miles for it. And did some more thinking. That cavity is just part of the oil path I guess, so I was worrying about nothing. All I need now is the valve spring an I can put it al back together!

 

[trek97]

Thats where the oil pickup fits.

 

[ManuR]

Sorry for the confusion, i was talking About the cavity on the right. Maybe i should have made That a bit more clear.
It wasn't clear to me that it is covered up by the side cover. Until now.

 

[crazypj]

That cavity is part of the normal oil passages. I think it's oversize to make the oil way drilling easier for production? Make sure you have correct clutch cover gasket fitted. I know I took pictures of the same thing to illustrate a drilling, somewhere in my 'From build to blog' thread I think? Check everything inside clutch cover, it's kinda well known the transfer piece can go missing (or did you already modify it?)

BTW, only just noticed your screen name, good one ;D

 

[ManuR]

Sooo, here again.
Progress is slow because of my internship .

I just started assembling the engine, and I tried to do the timing, the Honda manual is kinda vague I think.
Things I have done:
- rotor to the LT position
- cam chain horizontal
- good rotation of cam shaft


Are there some crucial things I forgot?
I tried to rotate the engine, and it seem or sound like nothing was touching.
But when the left cylinder was nearing top dead center it shure was harder to rotate (still smooth though). The right cilinder does not have this behavior.

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[Trevor May]

I always get this too. PJ once posted that if you don't have to hold the crank while timing then you're not doing it right. I haven't rebuilt my engine so I can't confirm if you're doing it right.

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