CL200 carb tuning

[Irishluck002]

Just rebuilt the carbs on my CL200 and did my best to bench sync them when installing them (eyeball test said the needles were moving up exactly together, anyway). Bike will now idle at 1,000 to 1,200 rpm which is a huge improvement. My issue for now is that if I give the throttle a real quick blip from idle it will bog or maybe stall. If I roll on the throttle easy just a bit prior to giving it full throttle it will rev just fine. Prior to rebuilding my carbs this was not happening (could just roll throttle no problem with zero hesitation). Gave the bike a test drive for about 20 minutes and also noticed that on occasion when coming to a stop the bike would just die as the bike de-reved to idle with the clutch in, in 1st gear.

Air mixture screw set out 5/8th turn per manual (CL model - different than CB) and idle screws equally backed out about 3 turns to achieve 1,200 idle.

 

[copperlite]

If you snap the throttle open the bike will spudder and die because it causes a sudden loss of vacuum which prevents fuel from being sucked into the airstream.

It sounds like your slides are still out of sync and the carbs need to be vacuum balanced. I just did both today on my CB200 and it makes a HUGE difference [especially off idle].

My [new] method for syncing the carbs is this: Remove the air filters and stick a pencil in each carb throat such that the point is resting on the underside of the slide cutout and the edge of the flange acts as the fulcrum. Twist the throttle grip and you can accurately see when each throttle slide begins to open by watching the pencils bobble up and down.

As for vacuum syncing - you can either buy a set of gauges or build your own rig. There are plenty of DIY options out there.

Let us know how it goes!

 

[Irishluck002]

So I know this isn't the proper way to do this, but essentially I'll be balancing the slides by twisting the screws at the top of the carbs. Both screws atop the carbs are screwed all the way in at the moment - couldn't I just back one screw off, little by little to see if it got better or worse? If no change, reset and try the other carb? I don't like to cut corners, but the bike is a CL so its a wicked pain to get the exhaust off in order to get the left side air filter off. If the problem is indeed just a sync issue, then I figure adjusting one of the screws independently of the other should yield a fix (if not a spot on fix, at least a way to alleviate some/most of the bog I'm getting now)