Clear coat on bare metal tank?

scott s

scott s

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I know some guys use WD40 to keep a bare metal tank from rusting. I've been advised (falsely, maybe?) that clear won't stick to bare metal as it needs something to "grip". That it will eventually chip, flake or lift.

Is there a method to clear coat a bare metal tank and side covers? Does it make any difference if the clear is matte or satin or gloss?
 
Clear powder coat would be a good option. I haven't heard much about clear flaking off bare metal. But honestly, I'd run the bare metal as is for a while and see what you're up against before worrying too much about it. Carry some steel wool or sand paper with you.
 
I got my bare tank powder coated and it's just like it was when I got it done 2 years ago. Only thing is that it's starting to "spider vein" rust under the clear (not bad). I assume all tanks rust a tad under paint, but if the coating is opaque you'll never know.

Only problem is that the Orange peel is pretty visible. I guess powder coating large flat surfaces will give that to you no matter what. You could always cut and buff.

If your tank is straight enough to not have to do any bodywork, I would offer up the option of polishing it. Then you could just maintain the polish instead of having to wipe WD40 on it all the time. Would look sweet. You're already sanding the thing anyway to get a nice grain.

You can also pattern it with a little sanding disc.

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I polished mine and powdercoated it clear and turned out pretty good. Had a hint of yellow but held up pretty well.
 
Many years ago I had a small micro-builder chrome-moly road bike and it was both welded and fillet brazed. The only paint on it was a small stripe on the downtube with the builder's logo. The rest of the bike was polyurethane cleared and it was positively stunning. The clear showed off everything the builder did and it was gorgeous. The clear never yellowed, chipped or discolored, and the frame never rusted.


As long as no moisture or oxygen can get to the steel, you can't grow rust. Anything that rusted under any finish wasn't properly finished or prepped in the first place. Primer is porous and can be a bad rust inhibitor, but paints and clears are not.


A good high solids clear polyurethane like PPG or Glasurit will go a long way in making a raw steel finish look awesome.


Take it to a pro auto painter and let them do it properly, and you won't regret the results.
 
I did mine with rattle can 2k clear and it looks exactly as good as the day i did it over a year ago. No rust under and love the shine.
 

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oh and the scratches are in the metal tank not the clear lol. wanted it to be like that but the picture actually makes it look worse than in real life
 
Hey.....that just reminded me! I have a can of that 2K in the cabinet. Won't cost me anything to try it!
 
scott s said:
Hey.....that just reminded me! I have a can of that 2K in the cabinet. Won't cost me anything to try it!
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Prep is key, get it clean and dry, very, very dry and it should be ok.
 
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I have never cleared over smooth (shiny) steel. I have cleared over a few bare metal tanks, but I always grind the surface with a sanding disk on an angle grinder. I believe the clear needs a "tooth" to adhere to, and the texture looks great in the sun. After sanding this tank I cleared it, then airbrushed the Marylin, cleared again, and then painted the satin scallops.
 
Avoid rattle can clearcoat- even 2k clearcoat, and clear powder (unless you leave low grit scratches). You need to use a product meant for adhering to polished bare metal such as por15 glisten pc or shark hide if you want it to last more than a few seasons.
 
FGKouki said:
Avoid rattle can clearcoat- even 2k clearcoat, and clear powder (unless you leave low grit scratches). You need to use a product meant for adhering to polished bare metal such as por15 glisten pc or shark hide if you want it to last more than a few seasons.
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It's a shame all that Candy powder coating I did on chrome and other polished surfaces over the last 8 years is destined to be returned to me because it all flaked off. 8 Years, still waiting on the first part that failed to come back. Yes it is better to have a blasted profile, does it mean it WILL fail if not, certainly not.
 
Scratcher09 said:
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How is that clear holding up on the side covers? I like the bare metal look but with the heat I can't see the clear holding up long at all.... Nice SR btw I'm working on and '81 exciter as well
 
For these covers, I cleared with engine paint. I use only 2K urethanes on tins, but I used engine paint to deal with the heat. I have seen other people use regular 2K on engine covers saying that the covers don't get very hot (at least not nearly as hot as the cylinders). There are 2K engine paints, but I don't know where to buy them locally but I know they are available online. The paint I used on these covers held up great until I sold the bike several months later. I believe the sanded texture allows the finish to adhere much better than a polished surface would. I have never cleared on a polished surface so I can not speak from experience in regards to that situation. BTW, it was a fun little bike.
 
Could you hook it up with a link on where to get 2k engine paint online? Got a bud who is trying to get a similar look. Its a great bike as my daily driver


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burkejt1 said:
Could you hook it up with a link on where to get 2k engine paint online? Got a bud who is trying to get a similar look. Its a great bike as my daily driver


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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He didn't say he used 2k engine paint. Eastwood is one source for 2k engine paint. Google it and you'll find it all over the place. If these Yamaha covers are getting hot enough to be concerned about the paint I think there are bigger issues that need addressing.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=2K+paint
 
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