Clutch drag on final Cafe Suzuki project

C

claygs750

Been Around the Block
So I finally am finished with my first café from a 1980 Suzuki 750e which you can see the before and after below. Everything is running great except I have clutch drag where I really have to jam it in gear with the foot lever. It seems like after 20 mins or so of riding it improves greatly. I've done the following:
--Adjusted the cable many times.
--New clutch cable
--There were slight grooves in the basket that I filed smooth
--New oil, lighter weight 5w40
--New clutch basket springs
--Soaked the plates and fibers and all measured within spec.

I'm really out of ideas, someone on another board mentioned maybe getting a new cable since it doesn't have the middle adjustment? If I do need a cable how do I got about getting a custom cable? Do I just buy using the same length?

Any help from you guys would be appreciated. Thanks, Ned

BEFORE:


AFTER


 
You sure you stacked it right? What oil are you running? The clutch on that Suzuki should be simple to adjust if it's binding and a hard pull you might not be fully disengaging check clock position on the throw arm should be 90deg to case.
 
Are you saying the arm needs to be 90deg opposite of the case when pulled? When the handle is not pulled it sits pretty much parallel to the case.
 
Not pulled, in the relaxed position 90deg to case... oil? I ask because those unless new design the stock design clutch discs don't like synthetic oil much, the best oils are really good standard oils, I like Valvoline 10/40 and if cold 10/30, some use Rotilla and if I'm splurging I use Yamalube. Also what shape is the lever/perch in a fresh set does wonders for pull and release.
 
I guess it does read wrong... sorry parallel with the clutch cover:
 

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Yea, it's parallel. I use the Rotella dino oil and even lowered the weight to 5w40 thinking it was too thick when it was cold, but there wasn't any change. I'm out of ideas...
 
Its a gear driven pinion/rack release.. is it possible you are a tooth off on the rack rod not allowing it to fully disengage.
 

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Now if #21 is rod you are referring to I remember it feeling loose when I put the basket back together, but this seemed to be normal since there was really only one way to put it back together. Are you saying that the long rod with the teeth didn't grab the small rod enough so it's not pulling all the way apart? If this is the case how would I fix this?
 
Yes. if you remove the cable at the clutch and you can turn the arm clockwise past the parallel freely you might need to pull the cover or the rod if you can lift it up and turn it back one tooth and drop it in so you gain some throw.
 
I think when I installed the cable on the rod, I turned the rod as far right as I could and then installed the cable. Is that not correct? Kind of hard for me to understand how this works. sorry
 
claygs750 said:
this is exactly what mine does, is this normal?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qo6PJ4xpJbQ
Click to expand...

Seems way too sloppy to be able to bite but you would feel a sloppy loos lever if it were not. A new pressure plate is $50 http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40062f8700230d8b4e294/clutch
 
Even though its real loose I'm not having any slipping, but really bad drag when cold. Nothing is making sense as far as what part to replace first.
 
So I removed the basket agaain last night and everything apears to be in really good condition. I adjusted the cable to get as much pull on the shaft as possible, but after riding it this morning it's still the same thing. I've noticed that its always harder to shift into 2nd gear and after about 15 mins everything is much better? WHat am I missing here?

 
Is it a new clutch stack if so did you measure the stack against the old one, could just be the stack is too tall, as for the first to second, if it still shifts hard when the clutch is sorted, you have a shift fork issue... very common bent shift fork from drag racing and power shift.
 
It's not a new pack, the same one thats been on there. I measured and all is within specification, but I even lowered the weight of the oil to 5w40 so I'm thinking the fibers need replaced since it works fine after warming up.
 
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