Crusty but trusty CL200 Build

I’m so glad I went through the carburetors. I learned so much! I’m really surprised it ran!
I feel they are both dialed in now, and I reinstalled them and even added new fuel lines. (I went as far as buying a carburetor air intake meter to finalize the synchronization.)
I found some #98 main jets laying around, and installed those instead of the ones in there. I’m not sure what was in there because they were so worn out. I also moved the clip down one position on the slide pin. Tomorrow I’m going to reinstall the tank and see how it goes. Wish me luck :)
 
I finally had a chance to see how the air meter works, and I’m glad that I got it. It’s nice to know both carbs are in sync (incoming air) with each other.
With that being said, everything was running pretty good, but then when it got hot, it did run different. I think the floats are not set right because I was riding it and turned the fuel off, and it started to run a lot better. But I still think I need new main jets, because I’m four turns out. I have #98 in there right now, maybe I’ll see if I can get #100? I guess I’ll try those, adjust the float height (21mm, at least that’s what I read), and then try it again. Once it’s running well, the next right thing to do is to check the spark plugs to see how the coloring is.
I will say that this will be very rewarding to me once it is running perfectly :)
 
When you say “four turns out” are you talking about the idle speed or mixture screw? Either way, neither of those are affected by your main jet. Main jet is 3/4 throttle to WOT, so going to a larger main jet will have zero effect on your idle speed. If referring to mixture screw, if it’s on the intake side of the carb then it meters fuel, on the air cleaner side then it meters air.

Change one thing at a time when you are tuning carbs. Set the float height correctly for both carbs first is a good first step. You measure from the gasket surface to the top of the float while holding the carb at about a 45 degree angle so it is just barely closing the needle valve.

Chances are if you shut the fuel off and it “runs better”, it is probably your float adjustment. 4 turns out on any mixture screw is on the edge of being past the threshold for its adjustment.


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Adventurco-Thank you for your wisdom. I thought about that very fact after I posted, but I never changed it.
So my mixture screw is on the air cleaner side. Therefore, according to what I have read, and what you have added, my mixture screw meters air. I was thinking that the mixture screw affected all ranges (idle, mid range and WOT). But if I’m understanding this correctly, it only affects idle and midrange. I was noticing a ‘bog’ at the high side of wide open throttle, so it wouldn’t really achieve maximum power. That’s why I was going up a size on the main jet.
I think what you say is great advice. Start with one thing, and see what happens.
So first things first, adjust the floats properly (measure them exactly how you say). I think I will also return the clip to the middle position on the slide pin and turn the mixture screw out to factory spec to return everything to original factory specs and go from there.
Again, thanks for the input. I really want to understand all of this and know why I’m adjusting something and know the effect it will make when changed.
 
The mixture screw will affect only the idle circuit. So if your floats are set correctly and you still need to be 3-4 turns out then I would conclude that the pilot jet is too rich.

Tuning carbs can be tricky but just change one thing at a time, go for a ride and take notes on how it changes the running.

Once you get it running decent on all ranges, then you can do plug chops to verify and further refine.

For reference:
Pilot jet: idle to 1/4 throttle
Needle jet: 1/4-3/4 throttle
Main jet: 3/4-WOT


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Took some time and went salmon fishing for the last few weeks. I had quite a bit of luck, and am back home now.
So today, I went back to working on my bike (carburetors).

I left the carburetors on the bike but took off the bowls, took out the floats and swapped the main jets to a #100. I assembled everything back together, turned the gas on and gas was pouring out of the right side overflow tube. I must’ve spent two hours trying to figure out what was going on, and the very last thing I thought of is that the float was being squeezed by the bowl gasket when assembled. So I trimmed a little bit off of the gasket, reinstalled it, and everything is buttoned up now and not leaking
It started right up! So I let it warm up, synced the airflow with my meter… and quite honestly, I feel, it’s running perfect. Air screws are 1.5 turns out and the clip is in the middle position on the needle jet. It idles great, no hesitation on blip of the throttle, returns back to idle quickly, and didn’t bog out at high rpm’s on my test ride.
It feels good to have actually been successful syncing motorcycle carburetors. Thank you for all your advice and input.
Just a few more things to do, and then I can start enjoying it on the trails.
 
Oh ya, I also finished the wiring on my modified charging system.
 

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It’s amazing how many little things show up when you think you’re just about done.

I saw some rubber shavings on the frame and figured out that the rear tire was rubbing on the rear fender when the shocks are compressed. To remedy this, I took the fender off. But now I need to figure out a solution.
I see fuel dripping from the fuel hose where it plugs into the petcock. The hoses are from an auto parts store, and I believe I need a metric version?
I also see that the chain I installed is to wide, but the pitch is good.
Rear shocks are junk. Need to replace with something a tad longer, too.

Good news though: I learned how to change fork oil, bike runs great, mufflers are much quieter, my charging system is charging my battery, it starts one kick every time, and it’s been putting a huge smile on my face.
 
interceptor said:
It’s amazing how many little things show up when you think you’re just about done.

I saw some rubber shavings on the frame and figured out that the rear tire was rubbing on the rear fender when the shocks are compressed. To remedy this, I took the fender off. But now I need to figure out a solution.
I see fuel dripping from the fuel hose where it plugs into the petcock. The hoses are from an auto parts store, and I believe I need a metric version?
I also see that the chain I installed is to wide, but the pitch is good.
Rear shocks are junk. Need to replace with something a tad longer, too.

Good news though: I learned how to change fork oil, bike runs great, mufflers are much quieter, my charging system is charging my battery, it starts one kick every time, and it’s been putting a huge smile on my face.
Click to expand...
Sounds like all the big gremlins are worked out, I use the little brass compression clips for my fuel hose connections and even if I have to use hose thats a little on the larger size they still prevent leaks.. I ordered like 50 of them from Dime City Cycles for like $5 a couple years ago.
 
Thank you Luugo86 for the words of encouragement! And thank you to all who have responded. Gaining knowledge from everyone’s past experience is what this forum is all about! And each little setback is met with small wins that eventually win the war.

With that being said, I am happy to report that I had in my possession, a length of clear fuel tube that fit perfectly. I had to remove the carburetors from the bike to install them, but they are quite snug and show no sign of leaking. I also feel that that will be the last time those carburetors need to come off the bike. Fingers crossed.

Yesterday I took some time and reviewed some shock selections I made over the week, and after reading all the reviews, I purchased the ones that made the most sense. Those should arrive next week, but I will be out hunting and fishing again for the next couple weeks. So I will have to wait impatiently to install those.

Upon further review, I see now that my charging system is not charging anymore. Originally when I measured the output of the wires from the stator, there were 2 readings. One was much higher than the other. The higher output (AC voltage) is the one I connected to the regulator/rectifier I chose to use. Maybe I should have used the lower output?
I’ll order another one and try it out .

How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. I’m getting there!
 
I can see that we are getting close to some type of spring weather here in Michigan, so I got the Honda out again to finish up some things that were on the to-do list.
I installed a new chain, installed a new AGM battery, installed a Trailtech Vapor speedometer/tachometer, ordered and installed some new rear shocks and finished installing my new regulator/rectifier from Common-Motor. In addition, I did the white-yellow stator wire upgrade. Have to say, I’m glad I took that on myself because I learned a lot about the charging system and the wiring. Great upgrade
Tomorrow, I’m going to get my off-road stickers and finally start riding this thing on the trails
 
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