"Do the Ton" rear sets - Lets do them cheap - No takers???

email sent, i should have a response in a few hours... as stated after i have them made i can powder them any color people need so set them off even more!
 
Well, if I get some downtime here at the office today I'll get started, I'll wing the dimensions for now, and they can be adjusted later relatively easily. I'll use the dimensions provided in the image to get relatively close. In terms of styling, I can do these exactly the same as the other ones, and we can make iterations later as well.
 
JPanichella said:
Well, if I get some downtime here at the office today I'll get started, I'll wing the dimensions for now, and they can be adjusted later relatively easily. I'll use the dimensions provided in the image to get relatively close. In terms of styling, I can do these exactly the same as the other ones, and we can make iterations later as well.
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I'd say you should try to give it more of an old school look rather than new and machined. Make them look like they were supposed to be there in the first place. Maybe some tube shapes rather than machined arms, less details and instead of having the machined relief in the main arm, make it a hole or completely leave it out. Just some ideas...
 
Okay, I just finished up the brackets for the frame. For now I made them set up for .75" tubing, my reasoning is that we can use half inch material, and if we want to use it for a 1 inch frame, the brackets can have spacers in between them to make up the difference. I think that solution is a bit better than taking up the extra spacing with rubber bushings. People were mentioning having a pin that fits into a hole in the frame, like a throttle, but I haven't done that yet and it could easily be added later. This is going fast so I should have a rendering by the end of the day.
 
Nice, i just sent the tread to my CNC guy... loner will hop on here and check it all out... he is the best in the game, makes all my shops stuff!
 
I have the solidworks files that the renders for the 'universal sets' were made from. I can translate them into IGES, STEP, parasolid...etc etc. They are still in a first draft form. If someone is serious about making them then let me know, I have not heard from Dixiedevil in awhile.

The design can still be tweaked to improve it. A lot of the look and form is because they were modeled with stock materials and simple machining in mind.
 
bcfellow said:
I have the solidworks files that the renders for the 'universal sets' were made from. I can translate them into IGES, STEP, parasolid...etc etc. They are still in a first draft form. If someone is serious about making them then let me know, I have not heard from Dixiedevil in awhile.

The design can still be tweaked to improve it. A lot of the look and form is because they were modeled with stock materials and simple machining in mind.
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Looks like my work here is done. ;D
 
get me those files and i can have them made up... he and i just spoke and he is down. he says he looks forward to rec the files.
 
bcfellow said:
I have the solidworks files that the renders for the 'universal sets' were made from. I can translate them into IGES, STEP, parasolid...etc etc. They are still in a first draft form. If someone is serious about making them then let me know, I have not heard from Dixiedevil in awhile.

The design can still be tweaked to improve it. A lot of the look and form is because they were modeled with stock materials and simple machining in mind.
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Get those sent to JRK and see what we can do!

Are you able to save them in a ProE format at all? Do you have drawings for the parts or just the models?
 
JPanichella said:
In Solidworks you can make drawings directly from the models.
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Yeah, I can do that in ProE too, but I don't have Solidworks in order to create the drawings. If the drawings were already created, I could give them to my machine shop.
 
untitled338.jpg


That's as far as I got, but the thickness of the material looks way off, those are 1/2 thick pieces.
 
I'm thinking the clamp doesn't completely surround the frame tube. I'm assuming there's some sort of gap on the original pieces that wouldn't require it to be 1/2" of original thickness. That way it could be like 3/8" thick and still have a little gap if it was clamping onto the 7/8" bar as well as be able to grip the 1"? Thoughts?
 
Muddy4DSM said:
I'm thinking the clamp doesn't completely surround the frame tube. I'm assuming there's some sort of gap on the original pieces that wouldn't require it to be 1/2" of original thickness. That way it could be like 3/8" thick and still have a little gap if it was clamping onto the 7/8" bar as well as be able to grip the 1"? Thoughts?
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3/8 seems appropriate. I'll get on that.
 
they should be made to work for both, a sleeve can be made so they work on both of them. universal so more people can use the same set!
 
JRK5892 said:
they should be made to work for both, a sleeve can be made so they work on both of them. universal so more people can use the same set!
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Exactly! This is why they probably have the radius for 1" in the middle, but are flat enough that they can easily clamp down on both a 1" and the 7/8" tube mentioned before.

The picture above is looking good! I do have a question though. I assumed the long holes are curved are there to allow for a little adjustment as to the angle of the arm that sticks out, correct? Would this require the holes on the arm that the set screws are attached to be closer together so it has a little movement or are they supposed to be at the very ends of the elongated hole so they don't move? I've never seen these before, and I'm new to custom rear-sets, but I would think you'd want a little adjustment to adapt to more bike options? Just throwing out some ideas so correct me if I'm wrong...
 
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