Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[neevo]

Stinking hot day in Sydney but the visiting mother has taken a trip down to Melbourne for a couple of weeks and the missus has taken the monkey out for the day. Great! Leaves me with some bike time.

Agenda for today? Mock up an electronics/battery tray. First up I am keen to know what I need to include (apart from a battery). I would assume its these:

Are there smaller/more modern alternatives? The fuse box can be swapped for a blade style one, I assume the beaten up tube thing is a switch for the turn signals (which needs replacing as I'm using led's). What about the regulator and that other thing?

Also made a template for the battery box and tray out if cardboard. I'm using a Ballistic 8 cell eventually so made the box up with those dimensions plus a little bit:

I am using the subframe tray mounts as fixing points as there is plenty of thread left:

All gone:

So I need to know:

1. Have I forgotten any electrical bits?
2. What can I replace for more modern components

Cheers!

 

[Kwality]

Neevo, there are aftermarket combination regulator/rectifier units for the 400f available from David Silver Spares and Oregon Motorcycle Parts. Hondaman (sohc4shop.com) also makes up blade-type fusebox units, but you may be inclined to get the bits and knock one up yourself.

 

[crazypj]

The thing with the tape is regulator, shows which wires go where
The other thing is rectifier, you'll need both of those ;D
I wouldn't bother to swap them out yet, if you run a 35/35w H4 bulb everything will be fine. When rectifier wire breaks off, then change it
Get a LED flasher off eBay, you won't find anything cheaper, I think they wqere about $5.00 with free shipping last year (and they work 8) )
I would swap our fuse block, the original is way past its 'best before' date

 

[neevo]

Thanks gents! Checked out Dime City and found this:

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronics-parts-honda-cb350f-cb400f-cb500-cb550-cb750-rectifier-864218.html

Does this replace both of those units? (The finned thing and box with white green black labels). Happy to get rid of those old items as I want all the electrics looking neat and new too.

I will grab a fuse box and led flasher off eBay too.

 

[neevo]

Is this 3 pin flasher ok?

http://bit.ly/Q5CW1n

 

[Kwality]

The reg/rect combo unit looks the biz. Very similar (if not exactly the same ) as the ones DSS sells. Similar price too.

 

[neevo]

Cheers Kwality!

 

[neevo]

Also had a crack at tidying up the replacement head I got from BCBarker (hmmmmmm blue):

The plan was to pull the valves, clean them up and generally tidy the thing up and look for any issues.

The valves were disgusting, but some time on the bench grinder fitted with a brass wheel got them back to almost new:

Full valve sets done:

None of them bind when in the guides so I assume they are all good. Will give them a lap when they go back in for good.

Also cleaned the head with a brass wheel on the drill. Discovered some damage to one of the combustion chambers:

Is this ok? I was going to have the head decked to make sure the sealing surface was good, just not sure if this is a major problem, if I should clean it up with a stone in the Dremel or simply leave it as it won't be an issue.

Clean head:

The messy chamber:

Funnily enough this is also the one with the broken sparkplug thread in it too:

 

[sinbad85]

while its all out you might want to cut the valve seats and grand the valves, or get someone to do it.
it would suck to put it all back together and not have full compression due to a semi dodgy valve seal....
nice job on the valves they were damn dirty before!!!

 

[Eleganten]

I would have to say that that´s one of the worst combustion chambers I´ve ever seen. It might run but if I where you I would have it welded up and re-machined back to size. The shitty thing is that it´s probably cheaper to buy a new head again.

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

I would have to say that that´s one of the worst combustion chambers I´ve ever seen. It might run but if I where you I would have it welded up and re-machined back to size. The shitty thing is that it´s probably cheaper to buy a new head again.

+1
Buy the time you clean that up I am afraid it will effect you compression ratio. Plus the combustion chambers all need to be equal in size. Lots of work for that one but they really are that hard to come by there you may at least try.

 

[neevo]

Ballsack! Not really what I wanted to hear. 2 heads here and both are farked. I will check to see what the damage would be ($$$) in having it fixed before I buy another one with a different problem.

Will have the valve seats recut too Sinbad before it gets put back together for the last time. Stupid not to.

 

[crazypj]

LED flasher looks a bit OTT but should do the job pretty well.
You could run a few LED strips down the sides of bike, underneath and anywhere else you can think of
You can probably use the Honda flasher 'bleeper' with 3 pin ;D
DCC reg/rect looks the biz as previously mentioned
As for the head, you know how to tig, just pre-heat it in a sand bath then have it machined

 

[neevo]

My TIG is a DC unfortunately PJ. I'm going to look at having the chamber welded up though as other than that and the sparkplug broken in the thread its a good head with matching rockers and cam.

Good to hear on the flasher unit, I might look at a more basic one. How do people mount them?

 

[neevo]

Working out how I'm going to run my keyless ignition and I've got questions on the ignition:

1. What is the difference between RUN and PA?
2. I assume the circles and lines are all connected together when in that position? Eg RUN connects the battery to ignition. And TL1 to TL2 and PA

For my keyless ignition I was going to wire up the ignition in the RUN state (assuming that's the right one). I'm keen to have an illuminated button on the triples that cuts the ignition but haven't worked out how that one will work yet.

 

[ridesolo]

1. What is the difference between RUN and PA?

Neevo, the PA switch selection is a Parking deal they use to have on bikes. Turn the key all the way to the right to the PA or PARK selection and you got two things: 1. The tail light stays on, and 2. You can take the key out and take it with you.

 

[neevo]

Neevo, the PA switch selection is a Parking deal they use to have on bikes. Turn the key all the way to the right to the PA or PARK selection and you got two things: 1. The tail light stays on, and 2. You can take the key out and take it with you.

Cheers for that. I thought similar but couldn't work out why it was past the ignition stage.

So taking the OFF and RUN as the 2 ignition stages I want. Looking at the wiring diagram for the ignition block I see TL1 and TL2 are the cluster lights and front/rear lights. IG seems to be a negative feed to everything, do I have that correct?

So for my keyless ignition all I would have to do is run the relay between the Battery and IG wires.

 

[crazypj]

IG is 12V + (red connects to black then goes to fuse box and comes out brown, B/W, etc)
Green anywhere is - (ground/negative)

 

[Sideswipe]

Wow yeh that combustion chamber is faaaaaaaaarked.... about to take the head off my CB900 hope I don't see anything like that

 

[neevo]

Wow yeh that combustion chamber is faaaaaaaaarked.... about to take the head off my CB900 hope I don't see anything like that

Yep it is. Fingers crossed its fixable. I've seen some videos of some great work fixing stuff way worse than this. That's the problem with old bikes... people dont give a monkeys about them and they get abused.

This poor little guy is going to get the full nip tuck and enhancement though. Should be like a brand new bike when its finished.

I will keep my fingers crossed for you. Sideswipe.