Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Yeah I think I'd pretty much wet myself too if I got a delivery like that one!!

BTW are you sure about the geometry of your rear shock/swingarm? In the side on pictures it looks as though as the swingarm rises on compression there will be very little travel before the shock will "cam over" and start to extend again rather than compress. I would have thought the line formed by the shock/swingarm loop shouldn't be completely straight but have a bit of a peak ie instead of 180 degrees should be like 170 or something. Not sure if this really makes sense?
 
Ducatiboy, thanks for the inputs, the rear needs a fair bit of fiddling to get the angle right.

I'm going to make the lower mount out of a solid plate and drill the mount holes later so that I can adjust where it mounts and ultimately the angle/rate of the spring.

I am not sure how useful my mockup was for exact positioning but it helped to start visualizing where the shock would go and how to build the mounts.
 
ducatiboy said:
Not sure if this really makes sense?
Click to expand...

Just had another look at the pics and your right. I've already lifted the rear brace which pretty much fixes this issue but need to look at the angle of the shock further to make sure it all works.

Edit: found this image which is the RD350LC frame, shows a very similar angle to the shock. Maybe I'm not too far away, looks like the rising rate may be similar.

ca6064bf.jpg
 
PJ forgot to mention, sump baffle was definitely in the boxes.

Need help on the Gixer triples and how to get them black. The bottom one needs a clean, the top one has some wear marks and scratches:

53aeac2c.jpg


a5e9c48b.jpg


Had a chat to a local anodizing place and they were thinking the bottom was cast and hence could not be anodised. Top could be anodised potentially if it's billet however I would have to get the dents and scratches out myself.

Not sure how to remove the marks without ruining the finish.

Anyone got options for getting these black, how about power coating?

Lastly can I get the Suzuki logo out without damaging it too?
 
Top and bottom are cast so powder would be the way to go.
The 'S' is glued in, you could try acetone to loosen glue?
 
PJ what finish would powder end up with? Don't want them to look too plastic when done.

Anyone got some powder pictures in black?
 
hillsy said:
Just paint them. Use engine enamel and bake them in the oven on low heat.
Click to expand...

Won't they look shit? Trying to avoid them looking like they have been coated in plastic.
 
Use a flat black or satin and they will look OK. VHT paints are the best I've used (in engine enamels anyway).

Heat curing is the key to a good finish (as well as good prep).
 
Cheers gents. Think I might take a punt on the satin. This stuff?

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/epoxypaint/

Would I be able to use my gas BBQ to cure them?

Also how should I be masking up the insides where the fork tubes slide and also where the stem is inserted?
 
That's the stuff... And I'm not sure about the BBQ idea, does it have a hood? And does it hold a temp well? I'd just use the oven.. I cured my engine cases in it, then cooked a heap of garlic and onion after to hide the smell from the misses haha

As for masking, I'd just use tape man.. If not then find some steel tube the same diameter and cut it about 1 1/2 inch long and put it in the holes
 
BBQ has a hood and holds 200c easily. It is outside so wouldn't stink the house out or the oven. Might try that first.

I like the pipe idea, would it work with plastic water pipe?
 
We're talking degrees celcius PJ - needs to be a bit hotter than just in the car to cure engine enamels (although it would probably be OK after a week or so).

Interesting link though ;)
 
Solar 'oven' will probably get up around 3~400+ f.
I'm so used to seeing Fahrenheit I assume that's what is being used ;D
BTW, if you have a busted back projection TV with Freznel lens screen, you can make something 'dangerous' ;D
Did a little bit of hunting around on Google, you can get around 600f with metal construction and insulation
The VHT paint was 250 f 121c
 
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