Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[andycafe]

loving the wheel, very cool 8)

 

[hillsy]

Also managed to catch my local bearing shop before they closed for a pair of these. Will be popping the seals and packing with grease:

They are sealed bearings - there's no need to grease them (they will last longer than your bike will).

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

They are sealed bearings - there's no need to grease them (they will last longer than your bike will).

Yup, if installed correctly! When I got the CBR it had these...dude hit the center and messed it up...then rode on it for a while... Neevo those wheels are sick.

 

[teazer]

Don't do that. I checked the last wheel I built and it's the same and I'm thinking "Oh dear" so I checked a stock wheel and that's how it's laced. Phew. It's fine.

 

[neevo]

Don't do that. I checked the last wheel I built and it's the same and I'm thinking "Oh dear" so I checked a stock wheel and that's how it's laced. Phew. It's fine.

Is that for me teazer? About the spoke direction? Hopefully it means I've built it right, if not let me know and I will look at it again.

 

[teazer]

Yes. That was supposed to be the polite version of Whisky Tango Foxtrot. Your wheels are fine. Great choice of disks. All the most fashionable bikes are wearing those this season.

 

[neevo]

Great choice of disks. All the most fashionable bikes are wearing those this season.

Thought so, nearly went black but that's soooo last year. This year it's all about floral prints and CBR F3 twin discs.

 

[neevo]

9.32am and bearings are in with axle collars:

Now off to buy a cheapie dial indicator so I can true the front wheel.

 

[teazer]

I hear that paisley is making a comeback....... I'm making that up obviously. I have zero idea and even less interest in what's fashionable.

I may have a very wide paisley tie that needs to make a comeback before the moths finish it off.

 

[teazer]

You don't need a DTI. Use a texta/sharpie and stand to see the high spots without scratching the surface. Start with concentricity and then do wobble and not the other way around.

 

[crazypj]

You don't need a DTI. Use a texta/sharpie and stand to see the high spots without scratching the surface. Start with concentricity and then do wobble and not the other way around.

I second that, tweak them puppy's up and have a roller 8)

 

[neevo]

Already bought it gents, oh well:

Setup:

I've started on the outside and I think I'm reading it right, can someone help? I've got 2 low spots (I assume 1 is the weld seam), I am guessing I've got it down to 0.34mm is that correct? Is that acceptable?

I'll wait to hear before I start on the lateral movement to ensure my tolerances are within spec.

 

[crazypj]

0.34mm is about 0.013" which is OK but could be better
You should aim for no more than 0.25mm when everything is done
I usually re-check after a few hundred miles (no need to remove tyres)
BTW, is that a high spot?
Push on DTI plunger to check which way needle moves (should be clockwise for high spot)
Make sure plunger points to center of axle
If it went counter clock, you have 0.76mm movement
It's also a good idea to have at least 3~4mm pre-load (the small dial on face is revolution counter)
DOH, just noticed you had 5mm pre-load :
I would put DTI on flat area where tyre bead fits rather than edge of rim

 

[neevo]

Cheers PJ. Moved the DTI to the inside of the rim and tweaked it to 0.16mm, I assume that's good now?

 

[neevo]

Lateral runout is down to 0.16mm too:

What now? Double check what I did first then tighten spokes evenly?

 

[neevo]

Rechecked the vertical runout and it had shifted so I redid the vertical and the lateral once again. It looks good with the tiniest movement when I spin the wheel hard. I will get the local shop to double check it when they fit the tyres.

Put it all together with the fresh bearings, it works a treat thanks to PJ

Next up I started on the headlight brackets. The old plan went out the window and I'm now working on an alternate neater solution. I need to bend some 3mm Alu though and I don't have a brake. Anyone got any tips? Need it to be neat and reasonably accurate as I need to replicate the bends 3 times.

 

[crazypj]

Without checking manual, I think Honda actually allow around 0.080", (about 2.00) which can give a noticeable wobble at speed. (may be more, I've always adjusted wheels to around 0.010"/0.25mm)
0.16mm is good
In fact, it's all looking good 8)

 

[neevo]

Without checking manual, I think Honda actually allow around 0.080", (about 2.00) which can give a noticeable wobble at speed.

I read that when researching truing which is when I posted asking about the 0.34mm thinking I had nailed it. Sounds like it should be smooth.

Cheers as always crazypj!

 

[neevo]

Sunday here in Sydney and the weather is gorgeous. Still managed to work on the headlight bracket this morning. First up I used my MDF template to make a piece out of 3mm Alu:

Then used this piece to make 3 more (total 4):

2 outside pieces were scored with the angle grinder and bent by hand in the vice to form a 90 degree bend:

Inside pieces were trimmed and tapped:

The finished bracket attached to the headlight bucket:

Mounted on the bike, very pleased with how neat it is:

Test fit with the bucket revealed its way too long but the headlight is rock solid so it's a good proof of concept:

So I took it all apart and have trimmed the mount down by about 1/3. Currently having a picnic but will get back to it afterwards and post the final concept.

 

[stroker crazy]

The day is perfect!

I'm going to abandon carbie rebuilding and head out-of-doors myself.

Crazy