Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[neevo]

The rear subframe is going to be enclosed. I have some 1.5mm Alu here perfect for the job but wanted to attach it to the subframe with hex head button bolts. Anyone got some tips of how best to achieve this?

I want the Alu panel to be flush with the subframe tube so was thinking of welding on L brackets to the inside of the tube and tapping them. Anyone got any ideas?

 

[MoToBoX-VintageSpeed]

yes i like your project, the fueltank looks perfect, the front end too
also nice little details with the drilled handlevels....

 

[neevo]

Looks like I might have some help welding up the tank, fingers crossed it works out and we can seal it up and I don't have to put a liner in it.

Today I crossed another couple of jobs off the "to do list". First up was a subframe tray, last one was steel and I welded it to the frame rails but it had to be cut off and access was compromised. This time I thought I would make it out of Alu (as I've got some 1.5 mm floating around) and attach it with button hex heads. Will give it a nice industrial look and mean its removeable too. Plan is to paint/PC it black with the rest of the frame:

I haven't worked out how I'm going to mount it yet but think I'm going to buy some 20mm square stock, cut a radius edge 1 side and weld it to the frame rail. This will give me a block to drill and tap.

I also started the indicator stalks, pretty pleased as this is 1 job I did today that actually came out how I thought it would

Why stalks? Well the eBay LED signals I bought only had bolts and washers and looked shit. Bought some 16mm Alu tube, cut the end with a 33mm hole saw to get a radius, then whacked it on my DIY lathe to polish them up. Turned out good:

 

[stroker crazy]

Signals turned out very tidy!

Crazy

 

[stroker crazy]

(Apologies for the double pun)

Crazy

 

[neevo]

Signals turned out very tidy!

Crazy

They make thr back end look a bit like a robot but not sure on the options other than not running them and that's not an option as the bike is going to be as legal as possible.

Worst case I don't run these and try something more discrete.

I'm hoping they blend in a bit more when the rear end comes together.

 

[BCBarker]

very nice on the turn signals. I think they look outta place because they are "finished" and the rest of the bike is not. Once you get some paint on things and start to wrap things up they should blend nicely!

 

[neevo]

Ah ha, welcome BC. I hope your right re the signals, just putting the swingarm back on made a difference so hopefully they blend even more when the wheel goes on too.

 

[crazypj]

I didn't like the mounts so made up spacers with curve to match indicators as well.
To attache plate to frame, would 'Riv-nuts' work?

 

[teazer]

IMHO you are right Neevo, they look out of place. I think the reason is that they are mounted too high so they stick out (all puns intended). I would leave them until you finish the rear end of the frame and then tack them just under the seat for a less obvious look.

 

[neevo]

IMHO you are right Neevo, they look out of place. I think the reason is that they are mounted too high so they stick out (all puns intended). I would leave them until you finish the rear end of the frame and then tack them just under the seat for a less obvious look.

I think you're right. Did a google images search and most are mounted on the lower part of the frame rails where the shocks mount.

I will leave them for the moment and see how I can mount them later.

Thinking of making tall twin exhausts so could combine the mounts for them and the turn signal placement.

Cheers gents.

 

[neevo]

Popped over to see my new best friend Darren today. He was kind enough to let me use his bench linisher to brush my Alu headlight brackets.

Took my tank over for some advice and he welded it up then and there!!!!!!!!

Legendary gentleman with a shed full of tools to die for. My brackets are now nicely brushed and my tank appears to be water tight, very good day

I've also done some eBaying and bought:

R6 clutch lever, left switch, right switch, throttle and a crushed R1 tank which will be donating its fuel filler hole for my latest tank mod.

 

[neevo]

How risky is buying this gas cap? The price difference between this new item and a 2nd hand genuine item is huge (4 x the amount for oem).

I assume they are not the most complicated piece of engineering in the world, just don't want crap that doesn't seal, vent or fit well.

http://bit.ly/PryZzw

 

[crazypj]

Looks OK to me

 

[teazer]

You need the tank it came from. What I have done a couple of times is to buy a badly damaged tank complete with cap and key and cut out the tank mounting ring to weld it into an old style tank.


This was an old style Suzuki tank with tall flip filler cap. I snagged a 2007 GSXR tank that was a piece of junk - and cut teh mounting ring out and then fitted a simple billet cap.

Unfortunately my welding skills leave some room for improvement, so it took a lot of work to get it right. It's not a complicated upgrade, but it takes patience or skill - tick whichever box applies.

 

[neevo]

Cheers PJ, your opinion is always valued, Teazer I'm 1 step ahead of you with the tank. Bought this 07/08 R1 beauty with a few other goodies from the US of A:

Going to cut the gas cap mount out and weld into the 400's tank:

Fingers crossed I can get it looking as good as yours, but my welding skills are still a bit turd

I've got a buddy here though that is a welding genius that I'm sure could help me out if I get into trouble.

 

[crazypj]

If it's off a California model you can probably weld up a few of the holes, only need 1 drain so water doesn't get into filler

 

[neevo]

If it's off a California model you can probably weld up a few of the holes, only need 1 drain so water doesn't get into filler

I assume the holes don't go into the tank, I will get a better idea when it's here and cut it up, just trying to work out how it's sealed though so I'm prepared when I cut it. Are you suggesting some of those holes drain through the tank? If so I will make sure I plan for a drain hole/tube on the 400's tank too.

 

[crazypj]

At least 1 will drain through the tank as recess fills up with water when they get blocked.
The drain is probably the dimpled tube on right in pic (it will be on left when tank is on bike - sidestand side )
'Cali' model will also have breather line going to an activated charcoal canister (you'll see a couple of metal lines coming out bottom)
There are also various tubes welded inside for the injection system/pump/return/etc.
Should be easy enough to figure out when you have it in your hands

 

[teazer]

You should see at least 1 tube going through the tank and out of the bottom. That's the drain that PJ is talking about. That's all you need, but you do have to drill a hole in the floor of the tank to take that tube and weld or braze it up after the filler neck is welded into position. Any surplus holes/tubes can be closed off.

That tank looks similar to the one I bought. I got my first squashed tank from Vic Wreckers many moons ago. They even had a couple where they had cut the filler neck out and dumped the shell.