Down under, an idiot and a 400F

[neevo]

;D Suzuki Intruder
As it's remote tap you could have mounted it in the 'triangle' a bit further back and unbolt it when you want to take tank off (that's how Suzuki do it)
Where it's mounted now looks kinda stock though 8)

Intruder, that's the one.

I'm not sure I 100% like the current position so may look at relocating it. I kept the tap on the tank though so I could shut the fuel off and remove the tank. I suppose I could do this with flexible hoses and a tap that can be removed, its just that space back there is pretty limited with the monoshock. Also wanted to keep the triangle clean and clear.

 

[crazypj]

What's the bolt spacing and fuel inlet hole space?
I think I may make you something 'neat'

 

[neevo]

What's the bolt spacing and fuel inlet hole space?
I think I may make you something 'neat'

Hmmmmmmm, intriguing! What are you thinking?

 

[neevo]

Big thanks to BCBarker for the latest arrival:

400F head, with cam and engine studs. This is because of the damage to my head and cam, this was a great price and probably a cheaper fix than sorting the damaged one.

The good: clean cam, journals, in tact fins

Needs attention: blue paint (fixed when the motor gets vapour blasted), spark plug broken off in head leaving just the metal portion (hoping I can simply drill this out), cruddy valves (nothing a simple clean and lap shouldn't fix hopefully)

All in all I'm chuffed and hope to have it in prime condition soon.

Quick question on the rockers, the gold has all worn off, is this a critical issue or should I leave it? Was going to price resurfacing the rocker arms but not sure if the cam would need resurfacing too as they are essentially matched aren't they from the wear?

 

[crazypj]

Rockers were sometimes copper plated so only the pads got hardened, the rest is just normal forging, tough rather than hard

 

[neevo]

Do how do I tell if they need resurfacing? Are you suggesting its probably just the copper coating that's gone?

Other than that the rocker surfaces seem smooth.

 

[crazypj]

Only need re-surfacing/building up if the pads are worn, post a close up of any your not sure about
The plating doesn't do anything it's only needed during production to prevent chemicals hardening the entire thing.
You's see it on con-rods as well so small-end can be hardened.
I saw a Honda video years ago where they were hardening rods, set up looked like a Christmas tree then dipped in a molten salt for 'x' amount of hours

 

[BCBarker]

Glad to help out! Still can't believe how much shipping was! But it looks like it got there in good condition and in almost record time. Enjoy!

 

[BCBarker]

oh, and I'm pretty sure an easy out and some heat/oil should remove that plug. It moved a bit before it snapped on tear down. soak, twist repeat.

 

[crazypj]

Australia is a long way from USA, stuff I sent cost almost as much to ship as buy.
Yay for USPS though, heck of a lot cheaper than DHL, UPS or Fed-Ex (over $100.00 cheaper)

 

[neevo]

Aaaaaaand prices in the US are way cheaper than over here too. Do even with high shipping costs us "down under" are usually still way ahead.

 

[pandknz]

Aaaaaaand prices in the US are way cheaper than over here too. Do even with high shipping costs us "down under" are usually still way ahead.

Exactly right Neevo, I have brought many thgings from the US, one that stands out was a full set performance rotors for my Chevy Blazer with Pads, $200 to buy $150 to ship with USPS.

at less than $100/corner you could not do that for a Holden in AU let alone performance ones ;D 8)

 

[neevo]

True.

I find pricing with shipping is approx 1/2 that vs local. Crazy difference.

 

[neevo]

Stuck at work and the missus has told me a parcel from Hong Kong has arrived... I hope it's not shitty quality (pleeeeeeeeeease):

Fingers crossed it looks ok on the bike too, I may have welded the cap mount about -1 degree out, oops.

 

[neevo]

So turns out the cap is pretty good for only $25, can't complain at that price.

Issue 1 was the tank tunnel, it was hitting the lock and so it wouldn't close. I was going to cut out the tunnel and weld in a flat bit, thought I would try a BFH instead and it worked a charm:

Still a bit of gentle refining to make it look pretty.

The cap took a spacer underneath each bolt to get the inside cap to sit at the right height but looks brilliant I think:

My fear was correct and the cap is about -1 degree out, what should I do, leave it or cut out out and reweld it back in straight?

If I should cut it out, what's the best way of doing this to keep the cuts accurate and thin?

 

[BCBarker]

Cut it out. I'd mark the center of the tank with a sharpie and mark the offset in the filler... Then just line them up!... I'm sure it's easier typed than done.

 

[spotty]

if you don't, every time you look down at it while you're riding, you're going to thing "that shits me up the wall.....I really wish I'd sorted it" having said that, fecking stunning work all round and 1 deg ain't that much....well done bloke, i'm hoping to do something similar when i get my 'onda4s this summer, i've got a large chunk of petrol cap that was chopped out of the top of a KR250 tank
keep up the good work

 

[neevo]

if you don't, every time you look down at it while you're riding, you're going to thing "that shits me up the wall.....I really wish I'd sorted it"

You couldn't be more right on that one!!!!

Thinking I might get brutal with the angle grinder and cut a big hexagon rather than trying to cut it tight to the mount. That should give me more than enough twist to get it right.

Edit:

Turns out you can get 1mm cutting discs for the angle grinder. Will grab one of those and cut the mount out tight around the top on the existing weld. Job done

 

[stroker crazy]

Cap looks cool!

The only trouble is it makes the tank look a little ..... ummmm .... battered.

Crazy

 

[BCBarker]

i feel like you need a body saw.... really thin cut around the circle... hexagon might mess up the body lines by 1 degree.