Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Looking forward to seeing your bike and meeting you at an SCR ride!

Your bike will certainly be the centre of attention. Too few well built bikes at SCR as yet, but the number is steadily increasing.

Crazy
 
stroker crazy said:
Looking forward to seeing your bike and meeting you at an SCR ride!

Your bike will certainly be the centre of attention. Too few well built bikes at SCR as yet, but the number is steadily increasing.

Crazy

Yeah I can't wait to get out there although will be looking for the next project by then probably ;)

Not sure on the "well built bikes" bit, I guess time will tell on that one :D

Funny you mention it though, I was talking to someone else about this the other day, seems like the top quality builds I look up to (Pipeburn, BikeEXIF) are few and far between in the real world. I know how much $$$$ & thought has gone into this build, so I can see why they aren't done to the ultra standard for most.
 
Success today!!!!

Got working on the rear brake switch, I kept the original mount as I bought an aftermarket switch based on the original. However I was at a loss as to how to attach it and where to run the wiring especially as I was running rearsets. However looking at the setup the other day it looked like I could keep the original mount as there was a direct line to the rear brake linkage off the rearsets where it connects to the brake rod and simply run the wiring up the subframe upright. All I had to do was cut and extend the wiring (easy job after the mountain of wiring work I've done recently) and mount it up. Here it is in all its glory:

8B2B27DC-422E-4F80-93EB-AFB1E288319B-1126-000001B57F25E26B_zpsc7f47a3c.jpg


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CF6CD0A6-4C7F-45DA-AEB6-5A2D030444B8-1126-000001B58BD1D71D_zps43cd048f.jpg


I need to connect it to the harness and I'm not happy with the bullet connectors I've been using, so a quick trip to eBay and I've bought some of the original 3.9mm vintage connectors instead:

8A4F69FB-6805-4289-9B7A-B5AB56A23A49-1126-000001B967FFE1B0_zps03429ab7.jpg


Also tackled the high beam issue I had on the Acewell. I had bought a 3A diode during the week, wired it in on the high beam feed into the headlight:

FDDEFC7E-A3AD-4556-B0E0-5902F5E23838-1126-000001B5926A7B02_zps7d369036.jpg


And??????????????????

NOTHING!

Bugger!

A good 5 mins of scratching my head and it turns out the headlight connector in the fuse box before the relay is loose, not sure why but I will need to fix that. A quick wiggle and the headlight came to life, not only that but the high beam indicator was OFF on the gauge, flicked it to high beam and the gauge light up. EXCELLENT!
 
bvander said:
Good to hear the headlight issue is fixed. Keep it up mate.

Yep I was pleased with the thinking and result on that one. I have developed a new one though, triggering the horn causes the tachometer needle to jump across the gauge and if held for a bit triggers the shift light.

God knows what's going on there as I'm sure the RPM sensing wire isn't anywhere near the horn feed... puzzler!
 
A quick search on eBay for K&N air filter pods had me worried I didn't have enough clearance between the carbs and top of the shock:

0A3F6292-781E-44BC-9B85-98F299FF865E-694-00000062BF919AC7_zps4baef131.jpg


So I decided to chop the top shock mount down. I had made it quite low and wasn't happy with the brace I welded to it, so this was an opportunity to get it right and hopefully get some more space in there for pods.

First up I redrilled the holes higher up:

455796F7-8221-4A94-A072-BE29BC0AE274-694-00000062C65585AD_zps9113e934.jpg


Then I cut the old support off and tidied up the inside of the mount:

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I cut some flat bar and welded that in as a brace for the support:

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All tidied up:

18E4B4A3-943A-4B52-A847-E937D307E026-694-00000062DB152C1C_zps1124eb71.jpg


And back on the bike to test fit and check clearance for the subframe tray:

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EBB84BED-6EF1-4C6B-9723-83448AD0D181-694-00000062F11D8BE8_zpsd73d63f0.jpg


Test fit with the carbs too:

8CA6ED7E-5F25-4C4E-8D91-D9C067839E48-694-00000062F66C4067_zpsca0b0d80.jpg


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After all that I decided to use some of the square tube I bought by mistake and make an engine stand. No progress shots but it was a good exercise as I could practice my welding and end up with something useful at the end:

EBB77D6F-DB02-405A-8AD6-1E6E0ED369EE-694-0000006312C3208B_zps4a0a38c5.jpg


Test fit with the engine:

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Anyone think I need a cross brace between the horizontal and vertical sections to spread the load of the engine? It's bloody heavy once all the parts are in it.
 
I'm building a similar one for a single. But for more weight support, maybe add a detachable front support. Looking awesome as expected!
 
eyhonda said:
I'm building a similar one for a single. But for more weight support, maybe add a detachable front support. Looking awesome as expected!

I quite like the access but that is a good idea. Any pics of yours?
 
Not yet. The pieces are cut but not welded yet. I'm reusing the stock front motor mount (single downtube frame). Square tubing 1.25". Base is T shaped.
 
Finished off 2 things today, first was the engine stand. I drilled holes in each corner so I could tap them and put some stainless bolts in. Would stop the stand getting scratched when moving it around the bench:

E096A36C-ACCE-4D9B-8409-46E5007DFC92-593-00000111B77F5AEE_zpsd9f334fd.jpg


Tapping:

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Bolts in:

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Next I got some paint from my local hardware store. I bought black gloss as this is the stuff I plan on painting the frame with and the engine stand was a good trial run:

59FCE38B-5B83-4C55-B909-AF66ED9383F5-593-00000111CB01448F_zps477b5f87.jpg


I also welded in some diagonal supports on the engine stand to help it when the engine is fully loaded although I forgot to take any pics. Strung the stand up, hit it with a mist coat then got right into laying down a glossy coat. Went pretty well although its still tacky so won't know how successfull it was until I take it down tomorrow:

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Finally I pulled the wiring harness off the bike to fix a loose connection in the fuse box (turns out I hadn't crimped a spade connector enough) and also replace the crappy bullet connectors with these:

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I trimmed all the cables to the right length and properly wired in the indicators and rear brake switch. I'm now ready to start rebuilding the motor :)
 
That paint will definitely need priming I used it on a heap of my parts and it flakes without priming pretty easily.

I had to re do a lot of my bits but after I gave them a decent prime it seams to be holding up a bit better.
 
deepwaterimports said:
That paint will definitely need priming I used it on a heap of my parts and it flakes without priming pretty easily.

I had to re do a lot of my bits but after I gave them a decent prime it seams to be holding up a bit better.

Really??? Balls!

Can said its a 1 stage paint and definitely no need for primer. Will be a bit annoyed if it doesn't stick properly.
 
It may be ok on tacky or ready painted bits but bare metal she flaked on me a few times I would strongly suggest powder coating or using a decent 2pac from a panel beater on the frame.
 
Cheers for the tip, will find a local painter to blast and paint the frame instead then. I want a top job and flaking paint would irk me enormously.
 
She is looking too good for that. I have a mate who's boyfriend works at a motorcycle smash repairer in artarmon he's a spray painter. I'll ask if her if he knows a good place to get it done or if he dose frames himself.
 
deepwaterimports said:
She is looking too good for that. I have a mate who's boyfriend works at a motorcycle smash repairer in artarmon he's a spray painter. I'll ask if her if he knows a good place to get it done or if he dose frames himself.

Cheers! The SCR lot here in Sydney also have a few painters amongst them too so no worries if not.

hillsy said:
I've used the Killrust epoxy paints without primers and they are far superior to the White Knight stuff.

Glad I only painted the engine stand then, looks like the Bunnings option might not be the best. Will see when I check the stand this morning.
 
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