neevo said:
Venhill are VERY respected here in the UK - enthusiasts all. Top quality gear and top folk.
Down under, an idiot and a 400F
- Thread starter neevo
- Start date
Venhill are VERY respected here in the UK - enthusiasts all. Top quality gear and top folk.
cbcafejunkie
Been Around the Block
Love the stand, was wanting one the other day.....I do have some Steel box tubing lying around.....
cbcafejunkie
Been Around the Block
No doubt think it'll work for a 750and a 360?neevo said:
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neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
cbcafejunkie said:
Yeah, just make the mounts adjustable or wide enough to accept both motors (assuming they have upper and lower rear mounts)
andycafe said:Nice work mate 8) great looking stand, guess your loving the welder
Yep, by far the best bit of kit I ever bought, if only I had the cash to buy an AC/DC TIG so I could do Alu too.
Nothing more satisfying than laying some nice beads, I've still got a way to go but I'm getting there. Bit of paint and they come up nice too
deepwaterimports
Over 1,000 Posts
hey mate bellow is the website for the shop I was talking about to get the frame etc painted:
http://www.collideascope.com.au/HOME.html
if you like send me a pm or reply here with what you want done and ill ask rob for a quote for you. (a bit cheaper hopeful then retail)
http://www.collideascope.com.au/HOME.html
if you like send me a pm or reply here with what you want done and ill ask rob for a quote for you. (a bit cheaper hopeful then retail)
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
Received my Venhill throttle kit in the mail this week and thought I would have a crack at installing it tonight.
Measured up all the sleeves and cut them with the angle grinder. Them I slipped on the solder on ends, splayed the cable and soldered those mothers on!
Turns out I may have soldered a little early
I checked the routing of the cables before I soldered them, choosing to go on the right side (tighter side) of the headstem as the carb fittings were also on that side.
Once I had it all together it seemed tough to turn the throttle, I thought it was the heavy duty spring on the carbs but apparently not. It's binding up somewhere so I'm going to have to figure that one out.
Measured up all the sleeves and cut them with the angle grinder. Them I slipped on the solder on ends, splayed the cable and soldered those mothers on!
Turns out I may have soldered a little early
I checked the routing of the cables before I soldered them, choosing to go on the right side (tighter side) of the headstem as the carb fittings were also on that side.
Once I had it all together it seemed tough to turn the throttle, I thought it was the heavy duty spring on the carbs but apparently not. It's binding up somewhere so I'm going to have to figure that one out.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Did you de-burr the inside of outers?
If you got 'Nylocable' the graphited nylon inner liner will need a scalpel to remove melted edges
I have a round needle file to make sure everything is nice and smooth
I run throttle cable down the left side then cross it over again under frame (and clutch cable down right side, even on CB360 )
Always use the biggest loops you can that will not be in the way.It may not look so good but I prefer things to work and keep working
If you got 'Nylocable' the graphited nylon inner liner will need a scalpel to remove melted edges
I have a round needle file to make sure everything is nice and smooth
I run throttle cable down the left side then cross it over again under frame (and clutch cable down right side, even on CB360
)Always use the biggest loops you can that will not be in the way.It may not look so good but I prefer things to work and keep working
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
PJ I greatly suspect burrs inside the outer is my problem as I didn't really take care of them. Stupid me!
Oh we'll.
I assume I should de solder the ends and pray I can get the splayed cable through again?
No problemo Ducky! Make sure you clean the cables of burrs before you solder them up
Oh we'll.
I assume I should de solder the ends and pray I can get the splayed cable through again?
Ducky said:
No problemo Ducky! Make sure you clean the cables of burrs before you solder them up
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
I picked up my updated ignition button mount yesterday evening. CNC goodness that looks the goods. The idea was to replace the old one with an extended version that I could mount the Acewell gauge off. Here is the old mount:
Here is the new mount:
Includes strengthening ribs:
I couldn't resist test fitting it:
I'm pretty happy although would prefer it about 20mm closer in to the triple clamps. I may look at options to bring it in a little closer other than redoing the mount again.
Here is the new mount:
Includes strengthening ribs:
I couldn't resist test fitting it:
I'm pretty happy although would prefer it about 20mm closer in to the triple clamps. I may look at options to bring it in a little closer other than redoing the mount again.
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
crazypj said:
Ah, got it. It's a possible solution but the piece isn't very long so clearance for a bolt might be too tight as the head of the bolt would probably start to hit the gauge body.
I think remaking the mount is the ideal solution.
I've also been riding around on the bike a bit, testing out the riding position and also steering lock to lock.
I've got concerns about the steering range. I limited it as the clip ons would have fouled the tank otherwise. Problem is I'm not sure it will go around a corner now!
What options do I have? Other than dents in the tank I'm a little lost.