Down under, an idiot and a 400F

You lean to get round corners, it does feel really weird until you get used to it though, limited lock means you may have to stop, get off and '3 point turn' sometimes if your trying to maneuver at real low speed, (walking pace or less)
Normal road riding isn't a problem though
Couldn't you use a stainless button head screw/bolt?
 
Might suck it and see on the steering stops then PJ. Might be a bugger in a car park though ;)

Will look into adjusting the Acewell mount too.
 
Lean over further? Aside from that maybe a set of clip ons like these to allow you to change the bump stop.
Race_Bars_Axe_105.jpg
 
Fiddled with a few things today as I'm waiting on a few months allowance to accrue so I can have my barrels bored for the 466 kit.

First up was the wiring routing. Tried to go over the coils to create a little more space, however I'm not convinced its working. I need new coils anyway so am thinking I can mount them a little lower when I get them.

Secondly was the throttle cables. I've binned the second cable as it was causing binding where the angle was too tight (where it joined the actual carb). Fingers crossed its the right move.
 
wouldn't be too sure about only using one throttle cable, i tried it with my 72 cb750 and the idle was an absolute bastard to get right and wouldn't stay set, put the 2nd cable back on and hey presto, instant idle........

hopefully the 400's carbs aren't as sensitive to the problem but be prepared

awesome work so far by the way
 
Anyone got pics of their throttle cables mounted to the carbs? The top (pull) sits nicely but the lower one is at an acute angle and causing some stiction.

I'm using a Venhill universal throttle kit so wasn't sure which bits to use on the ends as there are about 20 extra fittings.
 
spotty said:
wouldn't be too sure about only using one throttle cable, i tried it with my 72 cb750 and the idle was an absolute bastard to get right and wouldn't stay set, put the 2nd cable back on and hey presto, instant idle........

hopefully the 400's carbs aren't as sensitive to the problem but be prepared

awesome work so far by the way

If you needed closing cable to get idle set it had a serious problem with the adjustments
I haven't used closing cables on any of my Honda's since 1978 and have never had a problem
Ed, the cables have to 'twist' under tank so closing cable is 'on top'
It looks weird and I never liked it. You should also have a short adjuster with single lock-nut on 'closing' cable, it only holds it in position and all adjustments are done on opening cable
 
Yeah that's how it was PJ, looked crap and that angle it comes out of the closing adjuster was causing issues so I decided to take it off altogether.

The pull on these old carbs is quite tough? I'm used to a single KTM 2T which is feather light. These take some moving, does that sound right?
 
Yep, the pull is a bit heavy if all the links need lube and cable isn't routed down the left side of frame
The return spring needs to be quite heavy as engine vacuum can cause slides to 'stick' if they get 'tilted' towards engine side when decelerating (not actually a problem on 400~550 or 750 in my experience)
It can be an issue on larger cylinders, particularly singles with much higher vacuum (and why modern four stroke MX bikes have little wheels plus teflon wear plates on engine side of flat-slide carb)
Two strokes don't generally have a high enough intake vacuum to cause problem even when carb/slide is real worn
 
neevo said:
I've also been riding around on the bike a bit, testing out the riding position and also steering lock to lock.

Coming along then ;D would love to see some pic's of her now :o Andy :y:
 
andycafe said:
Coming along then ;D would love to see some pic's of her now :o Andy :y:

It looks the same as the pics against the fence unfortunately. Literally just sitting on it making vroom vroom noises to see if its comfortable.

Was toying with the idea of riding down the hill on my street to check the steering stops but without brakes I'm not too keen yet.
 
Neevo great build, a long time in the making,but its looking fine, and can't wait to see more progress.
 
It's all a bit slow at the moment as I wait for my next allowance day. I'm saving up for motor work (having barrels bored soon for 466 kit eek) however I was having major issues with the turning circle and was worried it simply wasn't going to be enough.

I did however stumble across an idea to create a touch more angle. It turns out the original clip ons I bought had the clamp area (bulge) right on the side of the fork where it met the tank:

5A4A3620-E935-41D8-AB1F-12AA149B53A6-1684-000004443CBF7823.jpg


0CA98CBA-38DE-42CC-AE92-2D948697730D-1684-0000044447EF09A8.jpg


Then whilst I was having a little surf on the old eBays I discovered these:

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63CFF8F9-5DDE-487B-8772-ACF6A9F1E44E-454-0000005502645CF1_zpsb750bccd.jpg


6A059CCA-C4B1-4BFD-9DAD-55A2FF3A6E25-454-0000005507C7F6F0_zps4fa9d16d.jpg


The quality seems much better than the last lot, however they were $100 as opposed to $60. If weight is an indicator of quality then these should be ok. The major advantage is obviously the position of the clamp part, whilst I don't think this will entirely fix my issue, it will certainly give me a little more wiggle room, maybe enough to get me through for the moment!
 
I'm pretty sure you can flip them side to side and have the clamping bolts behind the headlight.
Makes tightening the bolts a PITA but does give a bit more clearance
 
I've swapped clip-on clamps before. The bars come out the opposite side and the fork clamping bolts are flipped 180 degrees. The bar clamping bolts will be towards the top instead of the bottom. In the case of the clip-ons you do have, the fork clamping bolts will flip roughly (eyeballing the perpendicular) 90 degrees.
 
I have no idea how to visualize what you are both saying. I've tried swapping them before but both clamps have an 8 degree slope for the bars which makes swapping them impossible I thought.
 
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