Down under, an idiot and a 400F

I still say once the cap is on the rod with the bearings in it the hole is round. You could b put it on the crank either way, there's nothing to stop it. now there may be reasons why you shouldn't put it on "backwards" By I think you physically can. It probably has to do with the orientation of the oiling holes. looking at the bearing pictures I see bearings on the plastic lid with an oiling hole in them. Shouldn't every set of bearings ahve a n oiling hole to lube the bearing to the journal? Yet the pic of the rod and end cap show only a closed bearing . If those 2 go together you will eat that bearing and journal in a heart beat.
 
?????????????????
Oil goes through the crank into bearing for big ends.
It enters crank through hole in shell bearing.
Oil feed is only one side so you don't need holes in all of them
 
That explains the holes in the crank bearings, why are there no holes in the big end bearings for the same reason?
 
Hoosier Daddy said:
I am so confused... the crank IS the big end.
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I thought crank bearings were the ones the crank ran on in the cases. Big end bearings were in the large end of the rods, small end bearings were in the small ends of the rods.
 
neevo said:
I thought crank bearings were the ones the crank ran on in the cases. Big end bearings were in the large end of the rods, small end bearings were in the small ends of the rods.
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Ooohhhh I gotchya. Yes "big end" bearings are the large end of the rods that ride on the crank.... that is what threw me
 
neevo said:
I thought crank bearings were the ones the crank ran on in the cases. Big end bearings were in the large end of the rods, small end bearings were in the small ends of the rods.
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Sorry for jumping in here... Crank bearings (main bearings) are where you bolt the crank to the engine block. Connecting rod bearings are where you connect the rods to the crank and the wrist pin bearings are where you connect the piston to the connecting rod.
 
Yep, the connecting rod has a big end and, a little (or small) end
All the crank journals are bearing surfaces, main bearings in a single line where crank rotates
wrist pin is a peculiar American description
 
Not good, just.... odd. And I'd be sad if the thread disappeared too - it's been quite the journey so far. What's next Neevo?
 
Kwality said:
What's next Neevo?
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That would be vapour blasting the engine and putting it back together with fresh inside bits :)

Next up I will be going to see my chums at Carrington Products to have some custom stainless headers bent which will be married to a Meg's 4-1-2 collector which in turn will be attached to a pair of these puppies:

998F21B9-0030-48D6-A877-74ED7B99DC09-10462-0000025897C6D866_zpsb0171725.jpg


The original plan was to use the R-77's from yoshimura but at $900 I cannot justify the cost and these Leo Vince's are half that. Here is what I'm aiming for with the twin exhausts:

C6F4F74C-D519-4E44-99BA-5D7D8C9C9C4A-708-0000010FC4044965_zps70ea9f2b.jpg
 
hey, what rear sets are those and where did you get them? it looks like the the bracket on the frame was fabricated by you.

thanks
 
danker16 said:
hey, what rear sets are those and where did you get them? it looks like the the bracket on the frame was fabricated by you.
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Not by me. They are from Kevin at TTT400, including the weld on bracket.
 
OK people, I need some expertise. As like all 400F's it looks like the cam chain tensioner bolt has snapped off in the case, meaning the PO took out the power tools to extract it (a grinder) cutting a slot in the bolt to use a screwdriver but also cutting a slot in the case at the same time.

When I was taking the motor apart I ground down the cut in the case a little but before I get the cases vapour blasted I wanted to make sure I can still use this as intended without leaks:

027DDFC7-5A09-46AF-999E-BCE9C7F5638C-16809-00000332FE81718D_zpsd2699fb3.jpg


37FA9D58-893A-4A28-A670-9992F2EED563-16809-00000333066F3F36_zps31dd51fa.jpg


DB34F806-A123-4A3C-9C41-59E76C312058-16809-0000033312A5FEC3_zps0868b167.jpg


The thread is quite large and I have a big bolt to go in there. Will this work?

Also are the notches in the case going to be an issue?
 
That's OK, there is a large washer and lock nut, plus, the 'O' ring on the adjuster bolt to stop leaks
I would probably fill the slot with JB Weld (or have it welded then re-drill and file flat)
 
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