Engine rebuild quote UPDATE
- Thread starter CaferacerMO
- Start date
barnett468
Coast to Coast
Nope . . I said hand not foot.
If you want to clean your combustion chamber I would use carb cleaner and a small wire brush or toothbrush . . the steel wool breaks off in tiny bits that get everywhere . . absolutely too much trouble and risk for a rookie . . soap and water removes the metal steel wool bits the best . . . solvent can cause them to stick like a magnet.
Clean the gasket sealing surface also.
If you want to clean your combustion chamber I would use carb cleaner and a small wire brush or toothbrush . . the steel wool breaks off in tiny bits that get everywhere . . absolutely too much trouble and risk for a rookie . . soap and water removes the metal steel wool bits the best . . . solvent can cause them to stick like a magnet.
Clean the gasket sealing surface also.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
Not too fond of steel wire brushes in the combustion chamber. Maybe its imaginary or too particular but my concern lies with scratches that could potentially cause hot spots, and imperfect combustion. Brass brush doesnt bother me so much. Of course barnett you are aware that I polish my combustion chambers.
I agree that any product containing steel wool is a potential beatch to clean, but if thats what you have there and you want to simply know will it work, the answer is still yes. If you do, avoid any pressure on the valve assemblies to avoid any steel being shoved between the valve and the seat. And again, clean clean clean.
Another method i use is to spray oven cleaner in the chamber and let it sit. It really loosens the buildup prior to cleaning.
FYI, you wont see a benefit to cleaning it. It would be just fine to put back together as pictured.
I agree that any product containing steel wool is a potential beatch to clean, but if thats what you have there and you want to simply know will it work, the answer is still yes. If you do, avoid any pressure on the valve assemblies to avoid any steel being shoved between the valve and the seat. And again, clean clean clean.
Another method i use is to spray oven cleaner in the chamber and let it sit. It really loosens the buildup prior to cleaning.
FYI, you wont see a benefit to cleaning it. It would be just fine to put back together as pictured.
barnett468
Coast to Coast
The wire brush like the toothbrush size ones used in welding won't damage the surfaces but a safer and similarly effective brush is the brass ones.
scratches in the combustion chamber dont hurt anything or cause "hot spots" what you want on the top of the piston crown and in the chamber is the fine layer of carbon which forms on all engines, itis normal and it is of best benofit as it verly slightly impeads heat transfer to the metal .if the head and cmaber is polished the piston for one thing will run hotter same thing with the exahaust port polishing is a waste of time and of no benefit to power and will cause the engine to soke up more of the combustion heat we are talking small numbers hear but the polishing ports bit is an old school falacy ,it actually robs a minmscule amout of efficiency from the motor
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
I appreciate but disagree with most of that, but theres more than one way to cook a dog. Polish anything, polish it all. Except of course the intake, which im sure we can agree on.
Off topic i suppose but how do you feel about reverse porting then? I bet i already know
MANY MANY schools of thought on performance engine building. Many.
Off topic i suppose but how do you feel about reverse porting then? I bet i already know
MANY MANY schools of thought on performance engine building. Many.
reverse porting i have never heard that term but i assume that it refers to more or less making a port "smaller" because results form trial and era on the flow bech with clay have deamed it effective method as far as i know it ios somewhat common on 2 stroke transfer ports and also for optimizing flo on 4t's i think it was either fmf or edwin boysen who developed 2t reed valve assemblies with "stuffing blocks" i would call them on the upstream side of the reads.it reduced the volume of the area but you could see just by looking at it compared to stock that it would be a better path for efficiency./it just let the air be perfectly funneled wher as before the air kinda did a dump expand as it hit the reeds ..fmf called it 'ram valve'' i think and it was a complete cage assembly just like the boysen "rad valve" ..when i was racing national endurors i had donny emler send me a set for my kdx200 he gave them to me as a support deal it was very cool and the throttle was cleaner it def did not hurt the power.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
This is what I am refering to. It is also referred to as High Velocity porting. Some people even think that the major manufacturers use larger ports than necessary in the early years of an engine design so that they can simply make them smaller in order to increase the H.P. ratings over time, which helps keep a model popular. So Ive heard.xb33bsa said:
JB Weld can be used to accomplish this effect in other applications.
Sorry for the derailment.
Shrinking the intake runner speeds up flow which will increase throttle response and torque, not HP. Still can be a benefit, just a different one.DohcBikes said:
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
Basic rule of engine theory. You CANNOT make more torque without making more horsepower, and vice versa.
In fact, the way most dynamometers work is to mechanically measure the torque and engine RPM and then use those numbers to calculate a graph of horsepower.
Horsepower can be calculated from torque and the opposite is also true. One does not change without the other. Horsepower is the result of torque and RPM. Its a predictable math equation.
These are facts not opinion. But since twenty of my posts disappeared magically last night, I don't expect the facts to be here long. Sad but true.
In fact, the way most dynamometers work is to mechanically measure the torque and engine RPM and then use those numbers to calculate a graph of horsepower.
Horsepower can be calculated from torque and the opposite is also true. One does not change without the other. Horsepower is the result of torque and RPM. Its a predictable math equation.
These are facts not opinion. But since twenty of my posts disappeared magically last night, I don't expect the facts to be here long. Sad but true.
What you said was that the reason they did that was for horsepower. Nominal horsepower is gained. You can do things to add more horsepower vs torque or you can do things to add more torque vs horsepower. You are somewhat right and somewhat wrong. The reason you go with a smaller intake is not to gain horsepower. It is to gain torque and throttle response. Cams are another way to go about this transition. When I build drag engines, I concentrate on torque more because it gets me more red light to red light speed. Yes I gain horsepower, but the cam in my Chevy 350 is there because of torques gains- which also gives me better towing.DohcBikes said:
You also need to tone down the attitude. There is a lot of experience on these boards that you clearly show no respect for. I imagine you're probably half the age of most of these guys on here.
I can accept being wrong about suggesting you don't gain horsepower at all. That's true. I am not wrong as to why you would make such a change, which you clearly did not know. You are not as smart as you think you are. Dunning-Kruger in full effect, fellas. Welcome to the fold. I'm glad you have passed that wonderful threshold and entered into post-pubescence. Maybe the rest of us can now aspire to make historical highs on the Kawasaki technicians exam.
I was just gonna say....everybody take a breath and count to 10....
CaferacerMO
Been Around the Block
Alright guys, put the cylinder and head back on and I just got the cam back in, now it's timing for the cam gear, where do I go from here?
CaferacerMO
Been Around the Block
This is as close as I've gotten it to the t with a circle around it, will this suffice
You trying to make me pass out?canyoncarver said:
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