Filling dent in frame before powdercoating

T

tylerdb

New Member
I have a small dent in my frame hoop and some grind marks from removing some tabs what i would like to fill before getting the frame sandblasted and powdercoated.

What is the better option here - filling the spots in with brass brazing rod then filing/sanding smooth, mig welding over the spots and trying to grind/sand smooth or another option??
 
Personally I would go with MIG out of the two. Better to have similar metals together.

I have heard of people trying JB Weld but I don't know how that would hold up under PC temps.

There are a few PCers on this forum that should be able to give you some more insight once they see this thread.

Ohh and welcome to DTT, best luck on the CB.
 
i have a pc business on the side that pays for my toys.
when you grind off a tab get yourself some flapper discs. i think the ones i have are 40 and 80. use them to smooth the deep scratches. ive never pc'd over bondo but from what ive read it will not work. eastwood has high temp body filler i think. you can braze the scratches if you want but theres no need if you smooth the area first. this really should only take you a couple minutes. it probably will take you longer to switch wheels that it will take you to smooth them out
 
mig over the dent and smooth with flap wheel, the smooth scratches with flap wheel and the powder coat
 
My vote is for some silcon bronze in the dent. sands nice.
 
But I think you get our point......fill with some sort of metal and smooth it down
 
Brodie said:
Personally I would go with MIG out of the two. Better to have similar metals together.

I have heard of people trying JB Weld but I don't know how that would hold up under PC temps.

There are a few PCers on this forum that should be able to give you some more insight once they see this thread.

Ohh and welcome to DTT, best luck on the CB.
Click to expand...

JB weld makes a high temp putty you can use in exhaust pipe that would probably work, I have used it to fill holes in old pipes and it stands up to the heat. PC shouldn't be hotter than exhaust
 
files are far superior to flap wheels when doing the final blend,you cannot get a perfect blend with flap wheel
the flap wheel will always somewhat just follow dips and bumps to a small degree a file being hard and flat is the ticket
not china files not old dull files good new condition nicholson or the like and it takes a variety of cuts
 
Eastwood sells product called Lab-metal made by Alvin. It's a single stage "bondo" made specifically for withstanding powder coating. I did not try it but have heard good things. I did try "Metal-2-Metal by Evercoat. It's an aluminum based filler and I also tried another high temp putty from autozone that was similar to a JB weld. The putty was hard to deal with in tight corners and didn't look so great. Both held up to pic heat though. Another company is USC they make something called All-Metal. It's similar to the Evercoat brand but has higher temp rating. Long story short if I was to do over I would either have frame smoothed over by tig welding, but don't have one. Or get that Lab-Metal stuff, that's exactly what it is made for.


Sent from my iPad using DO THE TON
 
JB Weld will work nicely and will be cheaper to buy in smaller quantities than the All Metal or Lab Metal products that run over $40. Use the regular JB Weld, the quick set will not work with the PC temps. Give your surface the roughest sand blast "tooth" you can in the dented areas. Once applied you can speed cure the JB Weld at 90° for an hour in the oven. Regular type Bondos will shrink and pop in the oven.
 
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